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Stuck or Broken Lug Nuts

White Rubi

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I would like to pass on some info that may help someone else with this problem. I just recently had to replace all my studs because they were over torqued and the splin nuts broke at the tapered end. I tried the tool that you beat on then stick a ratchet on it and it should backoff. That didn't work. So I tried drilling the studs out that was slowly working but then came to a sudden hault as I got to the outer edge of the stud. Well then I tried torching out and that made a nasty mess so then I had an idea. I took a 3/4 hole saw took removed the pilot bit used the stud as a guide and cut the lug nut off. It left just enough on the stud that it still slid through the holes for the studs. That took about 15 - 20 min a lug to cut off. It will take about 2 hole saws for every 3 studs. I hope this helps anyone else.
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BDinTX

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Any idea how they got overtightened? It's ok if you did it, own that shiz.
 

JJ_WA

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That beats having to use a cold chisel and hammer to cut through the lug nuts as I did on a '62 Tempest. That was a real PITA.
 

The Last Cowboy

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Hammering them on with an impact thing ruins lug nuts and studs. Tighten slightly, then use a torque wrench to finish. Some use anti seize and some don't, it's always a debate.
 

rcadden

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I always start them by hand, and then hit them with a quick burst on the impact.

Another thing I've found helpful is that a 22.5mm socket is an actual real-life thing, specifically for swollen lug nuts.
 

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Heimkehr

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Some years ago, I had to pay to have two wheel studs replaced when the "tech" at the dealership disclaimed responsibility for the excessive torque that compelled said replacement. I complained to the Svc Mgr, relevant documents in hand, but No Joy. This was during the annual inspection appt. and I needed the vehicle (and the corresponding windscreen sticker), so I took the repair cost on the chin.

Now, even if the Service Writer says I don't need to do so, I purposely write "Hand tighten and hand torque ALL fasteners" in red ink on the work order. This links up with my belief that impact wrenches should be sold with loosening -- i.e., counterclockwise -- rotation only.

Yes, time is money, but the service bays aren't a NASCAR pit stop, FFS. Use your toys intelligently.
 
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Good jeep

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On my vehicles I give them the torque amount and have them write it on the service sheet.
Sometimes when I tell them, they tell me OH we know the torque lbs. I ask what are they. They give me the wrong number. Then I show them on my phone what the specs show.
I also tell them to please use a torque wrench on my lugs.
 

roaniecowpony

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Hmmm, seems like a big impact would either loosen them or wring them off. If not, a 3/4" drive breaker bar and a 5-6 ft cheater pipe certainly would.
 
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White Rubi

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Hmmm, seems like a big impact would either loosen them or wring them off. If not, a 3/4" drive breaker bar and a 5-6 ft cheater pipe certainly would.
That was the issue. We used a ratchet with a cheater pipe and broke 13 of the lug nuts off at the tapered end.
 
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KevinC11

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That was the issue. We used a ratchet with a cheater pipe and broke 13 of the sockets off at the tapered end.
Yep, that is what will happen. The studs are made from the same material as control arm bolts. They can take a lot of torque but once you put any amount of side pressure on them, they will snap.

KevinC
 

roaniecowpony

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That was the issue. We used a ratchet with a cheater pipe and broke 13 of the sockets off at the tapered end.
Randy, That's a truckload of sockets. Where they 6pt impact sockets?

I've run across rusted lug nuts, where the threads had rusted to the point they didn't want to loosen. Some people believe in lubricating the threads, which should provide protection from rust and aluminum wheels corroding at the lug nut face. It seems to be a big point of contention. Just know that lubricating the lug nuts will require a different torque than an unlubricated one. The difference can be 20-30% reduction in torque to get the same stretch/clamping force of the stud/bolt. So, if our lug nuts torque is specified at 130 ft/lbs for dry threads and seat face, putting a lubricant on them and tightening to the same torque value, could over stress the studs the same as tightening to 156 - 169 ft/lbs. Just some food for thought.
 
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White Rubi

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Randy, That's a truckload of sockets. Where they 6pt impact sockets?

I've run across rusted lug nuts, where the threads had rusted to the point they didn't want to loosen. Some people believe in lubricating the threads, which should provide protection from rust and aluminum wheels corroding at the lug nut face. It seems to be a big point of contention. Just know that lubricating the lug nuts will require a different torque than an unlubricated one. The difference can be 20-30% reduction in torque to get the same stretch/clamping force of the stud/bolt. So, if our lug nuts torque is specified at 130 ft/lbs for dry threads and seat face, putting a lubricant on them and tightening to the same torque value, could over stress the studs the same as tightening to 156 - 169 ft/lbs. Just some food for thought.
I meant 13 lug nuts not sockets. I didn't think about the over torque with using lube
 

roaniecowpony

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