Stop/Start Not Ready-Battery Charging

[tonyndls1]

Well 4 times at the dealer with no resolve. Drive the Jeep a good distance I was told. Well 519km later at a speed of over 80kmh I still have a charging battery message. Well 2 years and this is my last Jeep. To many issues that I have never experienced in 20 cars and a few Jeeps in that mix. $70k piece of crap Hopefully, sales will decline like the quality has

Went Swantys Jeep Az with the same and the replacement both batteries no problem ?‍

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[AndySpill]

"PCR (ESS)" is the factory name for the N3 fuse not F42, and the consequences of a blown N3 fuse.

Thanks for making my very point. Your words, not taken out of context and from a single post, which weren't as conclusive as your quote immediately above in this post were:

Again, if the ESS/aux battery isn't receiving charging current from the alternator (bad relay, blown fuse) the vehicle will stop operating altogether after a short time.

Which fuse Foster, F42, N3, some other, and for that matter which relay (PCR)...?

Here's the point where you say, to yourself at least, "in the future I'll write posts that don't require people do go wading through all I've posted in a thread to get at what I'm saying, or make assumptions about what I've said, as few people read every post."

Take if from someone who knows. I've written the same thing many times and referred to posts with such content because many people don't read threads or search, and even the rare times when they do they still sometimes get confused. Perhaps they should be more deligent.

I'm sure you have some smart comeback. Have the last word.

 

[THAW]

Thanks for making my very point. Your words, not taken out of context and from a single post, which weren't as conclusive as your quote immediately above in this post were:

Again, if the ESS/aux battery isn't receiving charging current from the alternator (bad relay, blown fuse) the vehicle will stop operating altogether after a short time.

Which fuse Foster, F42, N3, some other, and for that matter which relay (PCR)...?

Here's the point where you say, to yourself at least, "in the future I'll write posts that don't require people do go wading through all I've posted in a thread to get at what I'm saying, or make assumptions about what I've said, as few people read every post."

Don't be ridiculous.

Not only does that statement remain true, it directly referred to wording used in an included quoted post. What you've written above is the definition of taking words out of context.

And your complaint is my parenthetical reference wasn't specific enough? Absurd.

A reader can safely ignore which fuse ISN'T causing an issue.

Or a reader could even ask for clarification... instead of making false claims about the correctness of information, remaining insistent through a dozen confused posts only to finally realize the original information is factual, then bitterly retreating to blaming others for personal confusion.

 

[jeepoch]

Again and after a bowl of popcorn, who in their right mind thought that ESS was a good idea?

Only some mind numbingly brain dead bureaucrat who could not fathom the intricate implementation details that would drive every ICE owner into complete meltdown frustration, would be satisfied.

I guess from the big picture viewpoint, mission accomplished...

Stellantis just did their own part in all this madness by developing the worst possible design imaginable. Likely as intended.

I'm certain the environmentalists are all laughing out loud with this post.

Are the bad guys winning?

 

[AndySpill]

Don't be ridiculous.
What you've written above is the definition of taking words out of context.

If it's out of context, well here's the entire post:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...not-ready-battery-charging.33802/post-2603007

It reads, in its entirety:

Again, if the ESS/aux battery isn't receiving charging current from the alternator (bad relay, blown fuse) the vehicle will stop operating altogether after a short time.

When the ESS battery begins to fail, the vehicle disables ESS. There's no need to turn it off to test anything.

If your argument is that people have to take all your posts in totallity in a thread for you not to be taken out of context then you may not be cut out of online forum work: people often don't read past the last post, let alone numerous ones or a thread in totality.

In the meantime I've got a stuck open PCR relay (your suggestion in covering for another blunder) to attend to. Me and enough other dual AGL battery JL owners to fit in a phone booth.

(Relays in automobiles are near bullet proof tech, that if they do fail get stuck the position they assume when not energized, the PCR here being a normally closed relay.)

Hint: go look elsewhere first for fault than in a relay stuck in its energized position with no electrical current applied to it.

 

[THAW]

It reads, in its entirety:

Again, if the ESS/aux battery isn't receiving charging current from the alternator (bad relay, blown fuse) the vehicle will stop operating altogether after a short time.

When the ESS battery begins to fail, the vehicle disables ESS. There's no need to turn it off to test anything.

Your spammy 5th re-quote of the same statement even you now agree is true is still presented as though it's not a reply to an included post that suggested a stuck relay.

In the meantime I've got a stuck open PCR relay (your suggestion in covering for another blunder) to attend to.

My post indicates the PCR in question isn't stuck. But you were confused because you didn't realize a relay can stick; and since you learned they can you're just plain confused. ?

More importantly you didn't mention which fuse! I hope you didn't confuse more people by not including "in each post all the relevant details".?

 

[mwilk012]

(Relays in automobiles are near bullet proof tech, that if they do fail get stuck the position they assume when not energized, the PCR here being a normally closed relay.)

This isn't true

 

[DubaiMarauder]

"Stop/Start Not Ready-Battery Charging" Has anyone had this issue? I just recently started having this issue. I checked all the fuses to make sure they were seated properly and it went back to normal operation for a day and now the warning is back and ess stopped working again. I just got my jeep back from the dealer to get the steering worked on and the rear window defroster fixed so i don't really want to go back so soon if i don't have to. Any ideas?

Keep driving and let the alternator do its job and charge the ESS battery. The ESS battery doesn't hold a constant charge if the vehicle has been off, and must be recharged while driving and it will automatically enable ESS when its ready.

 

[mwilk012]

Keep driving and let the alternator do its job and charge the ESS battery. The ESS battery doesn't hold a constant charge if the vehicle has been off, and must be recharged while driving and it will automatically enable ESS when its ready.

The ESS battery should absolutely hold a good charge when not being driven.

 

[Mguy]

Keep driving and let the alternator do its job and charge the ESS battery. The ESS battery doesn't hold a constant charge if the vehicle has been off, and must be recharged while driving and it will automatically enable ESS when its ready.

The ESS battery should absolutely hold a good charge when not being driven.

Can't criticize an intent to return a 4 1/2 year old thread to a meaningful discussion, but as just said, the aux battery, being an AGM, has a low self-discharge rate. But this characteristic is only present when AGMS are fully recharged promptly after discharge. AGMs recharge quickly to 80-90%, but need time to get to 100%. Repeated failures to fully recharge AGMs results in "walk down" of capacity. The JL's ESS system creates discharge events with non-identical battery charging, a bad system for typical vehicle use.

 

[DubaiMarauder]

Can't criticize an intent to return a 4 1/2 year old thread to a meaningful discussion, but as just said, the aux battery, being an AGM, has a low self-discharge rate. But this characteristic is only present when AGMS are fully recharged promptly after discharge. AGMs recharge quickly to 80-90%, but need time to get to 100%. Repeated failures to fully recharge AGMs results in "walk down" of capacity. The JL's ESS system creates discharge events with non-identical battery charging, a bad system for typical vehicle use.

Thats why an aux battery delete is such a great idea. Its a shitty system anyways.

 

[mwilk012]

Can't criticize an intent to return a 4 1/2 year old thread to a meaningful discussion, but as just said, the aux battery, being an AGM, has a low self-discharge rate. But this characteristic is only present when AGMS are fully recharged promptly after discharge. AGMs recharge quickly to 80-90%, but need time to get to 100%. Repeated failures to fully recharge AGMs results in "walk down" of capacity. The JL's ESS system creates discharge events with non-identical battery charging, a bad system for typical vehicle use.

You would probably doubt my ESS works at all then. My Jeep is driven <1k miles a year for the last 4 years and ESS works within .5 mile of my house every time. A good battery is key.

 

[DubaiMarauder]

I have a 2023 EcoDiesel and it usually takes 5-10mi for my ESS to be ready to go after being parked for about a week or two at a time. And I've only got 5800mi on it.

 

[Bob Burd]

I'd like Andy and Thaw to chime in.

 

[JLJeepGuy513]

Keep driving and let the alternator do its job and charge the ESS battery. The ESS battery doesn't hold a constant charge if the vehicle has been off, and must be recharged while driving and it will automatically enable ESS when its ready.

RIVING AN OLD THREAD?? LOL.. WELL, THE BATTERY WAS DEAD WHENEVER I HAD POSTED THIS AND HAS DIED 3 TIMES SINCE. JUST A CRAP SYSTEM. NEXT DEAD BATTERY ILL JUST DO THE DELETE BUT THOSE LITTLE BATTERIES ARE KINDA CHEAP AT AUTOZONE ANYWAYS

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