kapk22
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Kasey
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2020
- Threads
- 187
- Messages
- 1,083
- Reaction score
- 492
- Location
- San Antonio Texas
- Vehicle(s)
- 1990 YJ, 2021 JLUR
- Thread starter
- #31
much better. thank you
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Your cable B is thicker than your cable A, so you have the newer cables and your cable A connects to the aux battery.This is really confusing. Is he saying the negative terminal going to the auxiliary is “cable B”?
If this is correct, pulling that off the main and wrapping electrical tape around it should do the trick, correct?
Then I will just replace the main battery and eventually pull that old auxiliary battery out of there. I assume leaving the positive terminal on that auxiliary battery won’t hurt anything, since it doesn’t have a ground to close the circuit. I will snap a picture of my terminals!for reference as well.
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Once you disconnect the Aux battery from the vehicle's electrical system you never ever have to removed the Aux battery, for the life of the vehicle, let alone should you feel a sense of time urgency to do so if in fact you want to.Dang... I didn't want to tackle removing that stupid battery until the weekend.
Thaw addressed that in the affirmative even if with his somewhat critic tendency to assume everyone here's a mechanic.If I have the Tazer mini, do I still need to pull the fuse?
I watched a couple of videos on YouTube where the guys removed the auxiliary battery, taped up the ground (that was connected to the aux) and left it inside the empty aux battery housing. Then they pulled the positive up and connected it to the main battery. Both guys showed their dash and no error messages/lights were on. One of the guys said he had tried pulling fuse 42 and still had problems. He did however, say it may have to do with different models.Once you disconnect the Aux battery from the vehicle's electrical system you never ever have to removed the Aux battery, for the life of the vehicle, let alone should you feel a sense of time urgency to do so if in fact you want to.
Thaw addressed that in the affirmative even if with his somewhat critic tendency to assume everyone here's a mechanic.
To point, the Tazer mini can be configured to turn engine start stop off and I recommend you do so.
What it won't do is prevent the vehicle from trying to access, in isolation, the Aux battery at engine cold crank times as is part of the the vehicle's normal cold crank procedure.
(The other time that the vehicle seeks to isolate the Aux battery is during start stop events, (which you'll prevent with your tazer) from happening.)
This Aux battery isolation as the only connected battery is effected by energizing the Power Control Relay (PCR): which when it receives power disconnects the main battery. Pulling Fuse 42 prevents the PCR from ever receiving power.
Tazer configuration is not required; the sole requirement for preserving ESS button state is simply that the Tazer be installed (so it can execute the "Non-Menu" Live Function).To point, the Tazer mini can be configured to turn engine start stop off and I recommend you do so.
Connecting the AUX (ESS) battery positive cable terminal connector to the CR[an]K (main) battery positive post obviates fuse F42 removal. That is, one step or the other is necessary to avoid a dash light, but both together also work.I watched a couple of videos on YouTube where the guys removed the auxiliary battery, taped up the ground (that was connected to the aux) and left it inside the empty aux battery housing. Then they pulled the positive up and connected it to the main battery. Both guys showed their dash and no error messages/lights were on. One of the guys said he had tried pulling fuse 42 and still had problems. He did however, say it may have to do with different models.
they said they "just fished the positive back up"Connecting the AUX (ESS) battery positive cable terminal connector to the CR[an]K (main) battery positive post obviates fuse F42 removal. That is, one step or the other is necessary to avoid a dash light, but both together also work.