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Skid Plate Bolts

KLMkrieger

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What are your recommendations for skid plate bolts?

The hex (allen) head on one of my Metalcloak bolts was damaged on a difficult trail .

I had to take extreme measures to get the bolt out.

I’m looking for a replacement that doesn’t use a hex (allen head) bolt.

Jeep Wrangler JL Skid Plate Bolts Skid Plate Bolt
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BDinTX

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Posting to follow.
That looks like a similar system to what my Artec skid uses. I haven't bashed them up like that yet but I have broken a couple of hex drivers trying to get seized ones out. I've also had to file few flat spots on some of the hex head bolts on the frame rails so a socket would fit on them again. Interested to see if there is a better option, but it may just be to get extras and keep spares.
 

C.Sco

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You can use any bolt you want, but the advantage of the allen-head bolt is it can sit flush inside that washer. Pretty much any other bolt head is going to stick out and get smashed up even easier.

You might be able to find a Torx (star) version of these bolts, which are a bit better than allen (hex) type.

The tricky thing is that, if I remember right from installing these same skids on my Jeep, there is a mix of SAE and metric bolts (I think some are like 5/16", others are like M8 or something). So finding the bolts with the head style you want in all the various lengths and SAE/metric threads you need might be challenging.

I was missing a couple of the allen-head bolts for my kit and rather than getting extras from Metalcloak I just bought some stainless hex-head (the kind you'd use a socket for) bolts and put those in, and they stick out and look sort of ugly, but no matter how bad they've gotten smashed up on rocks I can always still get them out with some combination of sockets, vice grips, and swearing.
 

Jeffy56

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I'd stick with the Allen head as it's most likely to be removable after impact. Grade 8 bolts are a lot harder. Ace Hardware has a surprisingly good selection of size and grade. Alternately, a Hex head (G8) and plan on (real) Vice Grips to assist.
 

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blnewt

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Just ask @cosine he knows!
Whatever you use be sure to apply copper anti-seize to the threads, sure glad i did!
 

Terrymo

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I’ve had to grind off two of the Metalcloak skid bolts/washers so far. I bought extras from Metalcloak and told myself I would check them more often. Good intentions…right? Also anti-seize as previously suggested.
 

Plumbean

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I'd stick with the Allen head as it's most likely to be removable after impact. Grade 8 bolts are a lot harder. Ace Hardware has a surprisingly good selection of size and grade. Alternately, a Hex head (G8) and plan on (real) Vice Grips to assist.
Agree re Ace Hardware. Another option is McMaster Carr - if ever you wanted a hardware store rabbit hole to go down, they will serve you well …
 

JLUR Farout

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On the Artec engine/trans skid I threw their cap screws away and used Grade 8 for where the plate mounts to the engine mount bracket arms. I made one a stud so I can slide it up and hang it, and put a nut on the outside. For the transfer case / crossmember bolts I use 10.9 bolts inside M.O.R.E. conical washers. On the back side of the M.O.R.E. aluminum transfer case skid plate I used long Grade 8 bolts inside Rock Hard 4x4 conical washers. Note I do not do much rock sliding at all.
 

ScotM

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Don’t do torx, get a grip edge socket set, will fit great and not strip. A bit pricey, but worth it
 

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roaniecowpony

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Anti-seize on the underside of a flush (countersunk) head screw helps too.

If they get stuck, weld a nut to the head.
 

BDinTX

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Anti-seize on the underside of a flush (countersunk) head screw helps too.

If they get stuck, weld a nut to the head.
I’ll second this for another reason. We were getting an annoying clicking sound we could only hear when going slow with the windows down. Today, after going through a puddle the noise stopped for a while. I got to thinking it must be something binding up and the water lubed it. When we got home we took the center section of the belly pan out and put anti seize on the bolt treads and on the countersunk part where the bolts mate to the aluminum. Now the noise is gone!
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