Simple Subwoofer Upgrade!?

[JasonInDLH]

"connect to speaker level inputs on amp" - lost me there . . . But the amp is built into a powered sub?

Let me see . . .

Power from PSub to battery with fuse (if needed), ground from PSub to ground location (short as possible), control nob (plugged into PSub, hopefully in an obvious port on the PSub) and running wire plus knob to location, and then lost . . . Every PSub ports are different but I'm guessing it's a pos/neg for left channel to one set of twisted wires in the B pillar and a 2nd pos/neg set running to the other set of twisted wires in the B pillar for right channel . . . So 4 wires total, connect, crimped, heat shrink tubed, rewrapped and hidden? 4 wires coming out of the PSub (pending PSub of course) tapped into B pillar?

All powered subs have an internal amp (the amp is powering it, hence “powered sub”). My sub is just the sub, so I had to install a separate amp. We both need to connect our wires to the amp which then connects to the sub. Your amp-to-sub connection is internal whereas mine is external.

All amps need an inline fuse, so if there is a short there won’t a fire. I see the Kicker product actually comes with a wiring harness that includes the fuse (plus everything else for the install, so you should be good and wouldn’t need to purchase anything else). Kicker definitely made it easy!

Here’s a diagram from Kicker product website. Note…you’ll see the blue turn-on wire. You don’t have to connect this as you have signal sensing coming from the speaker wire which will turn the amp on…you’ll choose DC Offset option on amp). If, for whatever reason, the amp isn’t turning on properly you can always connect the blue turn-on wire to a power source (so just wrap this up and save for a rainy day). The blue turn-on can actually be used to turn on another amp if you choose DC Offset…

You have the speaker wire connection spot on! Also, please note….You won’t need that “KISL” adapter as shown in the diagram above. It appears the powered sub speaker level inputs have male RCA’s. Just cut the RCA terminal ends off and connect the wires like you described.

Sponsored

 

[Nater34]

Looks great @JasonInDLH! So did you wind up winding blue wire? @ghost sorry man I had root canal and u just def talked me out of ever thinking to replace the knee speakers!

 

[Ghostwolf]

Looks great @JasonInDLH! So did you wind up winding blue wire? @ghost sorry man I had root canal and u just def talked me out of ever thinking to replace the knee speakers!

Thank you speaker Jedi master - this is a huge help and appreciate you doing some experimenting on the B pillar for all of us . . . Keep you posted!!

 

[JasonInDLH]

Looks great @JasonInDLH! So did you wind up winding blue wire? @ghost sorry man I had root canal and u just def talked me out of ever thinking to replace the knee speakers!

My amp and LOC didn’t come with a turn-on lead like that Kicker does. I used the speaker audio signal sensing for my turn-on to my LOC. I then used “Rem Out” on my LC2i to run a wire from the LOC to my amplifier Rem In to turn that on. Works like a charm! It all turns on when there is audio and shuts off when there is not.

 

[Ghostwolf]

Looks great @JasonInDLH! So did you wind up winding blue wire? @ghost sorry man I had root canal and u just def talked me out of ever thinking to replace the knee speakers!

I'm sure it's much easier if you have a driveway or shop or work space that you can place parts and hardware out and grab tools and lights and lamps as needed. Pause to eat and to drink some water and walk away and another vehicle to go to the hardware store to purchase the correct tools you may need,l . . . Rather than storing everything in the cargo area, playing "car!!!" With the door ajar and screaming "game on" once the car passes . . . And people walking by asking what are you doing? And some effing a-hole that didn't curb their effing dog and having to dodge around a pile of dog sh*t right where your passenger door is. It was dark and I didn't see it and of course I would step in it . . . And vehicles are packed in but I eventually reversed and kissed the car behind me! Putting the poop just out of the way! Yeah, definitely easier in a driveway!

 

[JasonInDLH]

I'm sure it's much easier if you have a driveway or shop or work space that you can place parts and hardware out and grab tools and lights and lamps as needed. Pause to eat and to drink some water and walk away and another vehicle to go to the hardware store to purchase the correct tools you may need,l . . . Rather than storing everything in the cargo area, playing "car!!!" With the door ajar and screaming "game on" once the car passes . . . And people walking by asking what are you doing? And some effing a-hole that didn't curb their effing dog and having to dodge around a pile of dog sh*t right where your passenger door is. It was dark and I didn't see it and of course I would step in it . . . And vehicles are packed in but I eventually reversed and kissed the car behind me! Putting the poop just out of the way! Yeah, definitely easier in a driveway!

Well…true. But dang it…my garage gets so messy at times that I lose things and it takes me awhile to find a connector I need or this or that.? At least doing it out on the street you bring only what you need.

 

[Ghostwolf]

Well…true. But dang it…my garage gets so messy at times that I lose things and it takes me awhile to find a connector I need or this or that.? At least doing it out on the street you bring only what you need.

But when you drop a screw down the side panel shaft and have to dangle your legs out in traffic trying to reach it with my orangutan hands - I'm 6' 4" 250 and take up a lot of room and trying to get up and under things ain't easy but also, safety first . . . Best of luck - now shopping powered subs again - will I ever learn?

 

[JasonInDLH]

But when you drop a screw down the side panel shaft and have to dangle your legs out in traffic trying to reach it with my orangutan hands - I'm 6' 4" 250 and take up a lot of room and trying to get up and under things ain't easy but also, safety first . . . Best of luck - now shopping powered subs again - will I ever learn?

When shopping for a powered sub (as all are not created equal) some thingin mind…

-Input voltage for speaker level inputs should be 40v (or 400watts) or you’ll have to get an additional Line Out Converter to handle the voltage.

-If it doesn’t have speaker level inputs (only RCA) you’ll either need the Amp Pro and connect to the back of the receiver, an LOC, or a speaker wire to RCA adapter (the Kicker KISL). I’ve never done the last route and I would double check with the sub manufacturer if that’s possible (you know…regarding the volts and all that stuff).

-check if the unit has multiple turn on options (or you’ll have to run a turn-on wire to a power source). The signal sensing simply removes the step of running an additional wire.

-it will make things a bit easier if it comes with a premade wiring harness (then you don’t have to purchase the power, ground, etc and crimp lugs on the power and ground). I guess you can always purchase a separate amp wiring kit that is pretty much plug and play, so you could go that route.

I’m sure I forgot something, but that should get you by! Good luck!

 

[Ghostwolf]

When shopping for a powered sub (as all are not created equal) some thingin mind…

-Input voltage for speaker level inputs should be 40v (or 400watts) or you’ll have to get an additional Line Out Converter to handle the voltage.

-If it doesn’t have speaker level inputs (only RCA) you’ll either need the Amp Pro and connect to the back of the receiver, an LOC, or a speaker wire to RCA adapter (the Kicker KISL). I’ve never done the last route and I would double check with the sub manufacturer if that’s possible (you know…regarding the volts and all that stuff).

-check if the unit has multiple turn on options (or you’ll have to run a turn-on wire to a power source). The signal sensing simply removes the step of running an additional wire.

-it will make things a bit easier if it comes with a premade wiring harness (then you don’t have to purchase the power, ground, etc and crimp lugs on the power and ground). I guess you can always purchase a separate amp wiring kit that is pretty much plug and play, so you could go that route.

I’m sure I forgot something, but that should get you by! Good luck!

Now I'm confused again . . . LOL . . . Okay . . . Looking at the Kicker 46HS10 - Input signal 0.25 to 40 volts, check - the HS10 comes with a wiring harness, cut off RCA of harness and tap into B pillar accordingly and plug harness into HS10, right? "The HS10 also offers two auto turn-on options. The package includes a wiring harness for power, signal and remote turn-on connections with a quick-connect Molex plug to make installing simple." Nothing about this is simple . . . Anyways, guessing there are two ways to auto start this thing, check? I think?

Now, based off the diagram above (that you got from the Kicker website) . . . I'll castrate the male RCA and use those wires to tap into the B pillar respectively, crimp, heat shrink tube and wrap and camo with other wires . . . The HS10 will power on from the signal wiring? And decode / register low end from the tapped wires, I'll toggle Auto Turn On to DC, Input Level to LO, Phase / Bass Boost / X-Over Freq / Gain to listening preference? And run remote bass wire and knob "somewhere" via the 3.5 mm jack plug and everythingelse like the diagram? If I go with this specific powered sub?

 

[Ghostwolf]

Now I'm confused again . . . LOL . . . Okay . . . Looking at the Kicker 46HS10 - Input signal 0.25 to 40 volts, check - the HS10 comes with a wiring harness, cut off RCA of harness and tap into B pillar accordingly and plug harness into HS10, right? "The HS10 also offers two auto turn-on options. The package includes a wiring harness for power, signal and remote turn-on connections with a quick-connect Molex plug to make installing simple." Nothing about this is simple . . . Anyways, guessing there are two ways to auto start this thing, check? I think?

Now, based off the diagram above (that you got from the Kicker website) . . . I'll castrate the male RCA and use those wires to tap into the B pillar respectively, crimp, heat shrink tube and wrap and camo with other wires . . . The HS10 will power on from the signal wiring? And decode / register low end from the tapped wires, I'll toggle Auto Turn On to DC, Input Level to LO, Phase / Bass Boost / X-Over Freq / Gain to listening preference? And run remote bass wire and knob "somewhere" via the 3.5 mm jack plug and everythingelse like the diagram? If I go with this specific powered sub?

And by the way . . . During knee speaker upgrade, the driver side speaker pod had a little module on the rear that wouldn't allow me to remove the pod . . . Ended up cracking and breaking a plastic shell piece for the steering shroud . . . Used a Staples Rewards Card and some Krazy Glue to reinforce it and then some E6000 painted over it all and then gaffer's tape . . . Jeep / Chrysler / Mopher seriously, royally, totally, ragingly, frustratingly fucked up when it came to the sound design and speaker / listening enjoyment of these vehicles . . . You can literally take the entire vehicle apart but it takes God damn "magic" to change out these knee speakers . . . Were they cutting corners? There's so much "machismo" and "over compensation" and 'Merica flag bullshit associated with Jeeps, that you'd think they would deck out, pimp out and totally blast a kickass sound system!? But no, they just shat all over the speakers and called it a day . . . Very bummed and disappointed . . . Awesome vehicle but this has really spoiled my impression of Jeeps . . . A dying cat sounds better!

 

[JasonInDLH]

Now I'm confused again . . . LOL . . . Okay . . . Looking at the Kicker 46HS10 - Input signal 0.25 to 40 volts, check - the HS10 comes with a wiring harness, cut off RCA of harness and tap into B pillar accordingly and plug harness into HS10, right? Yes "The HS10 also offers two auto turn-on options. The package includes a wiring harness for power, signal and remote turn-on connections with a quick-connect Molex plug to make installing simple." Nothing about this is simple . . . Anyways, guessing there are two ways to auto start this thing, check? I think? Correct. You can use traditional remote wire and connect to power source or it will turn on when it sees audio signal through your speaker level input

Now, based off the diagram above (that you got from the Kicker website) . . . I'll castrate the male RCA and use those wires to tap into the B pillar respectively, crimp, heat shrink tube and wrap and camo with other wiresCorrect . . . The HS10 will power on from the signal wiring? Yes, If DC Offset is selected on the ampAnd decode / register low end from the tapped wires, I'll toggle Auto Turn On to DC, Input Level to LO (LO is for RCA’s, Hi is for speaker level, so you’ll use Hi.Phase / Bass Boost / X-Over Freq / Gain to listening preference? Pretty much. There are special tools and procedures to set the gain properly, but you can wing it. Try to use as little gain as possible as the amp not only amplifies music but also noiseAnd run remote bass wire and knob "somewhere" via the 3.5 mm jack plug and everythingelse like the diagram? You got it! If I go with this specific powered sub? Pretty much the same method with any powered sub

See answers in quote above?

 

[JasonInDLH]

I’m sure you’ll enjoy the sub much like @TheBirdie72 does!

 

[Ghostwolf]

I’m sure you’ll enjoy the sub much like @TheBirdie72 does!

Appreciate everything!! Keep you posted . . .

 

[Jayden.yates]

So I ran into a few hiccups with the install: 1. My new hydraulic crimper wouldn’t let go of my lug, so I spent awhile trying to figure that out.
2. I was getting no audio when I tried it out. After rechecking things multiple times and 15 minutes later I realized I put the RCA’s into the amp preout. ??

With that said, I just finished and didn’t have time to test both locations. I can say, however, that even at very low volume that the JL Audio Stealthbox was bumpin’ tapped into the Alpine sub wires (I am still going to test at the rear speaker wires to see if that will work, but probably not until after I get the sub and amp tuned, so that may take awhile, but will report back here).

The sub wires are in a plethora of wires located in a harness by the passenger door sill (I have a four door, so the rear passenger for me). Shoot, what a mess, but here’s where I tapped in (you can see the black harness that I cut open and temporarily attached posi-taps)….

I tapped into sub 1 (+ and -) and sub 2 (+ and -). Just look for the twisted wires as they are the ones you want. Then it’s easy to color match…

And yes…I have a lot of power wire. I’ll be cutting that off and using it to attach to one of these for a future amp/sub ?…

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-40526-NVX-XCAP10H-TRUE-10-FARAD-CAPACITANCE.html

Is the wiring diagram you have attached for all jeep or just 4 doors? I have a 2 door 2021, so do you think its the same wiring?

 

[Ghostwolf]

"I tapped into sub 1 (+ and -) and sub 2 (+ and -). Just look for the twisted wires as they are the ones you want. Then it’s easy to color match" - so . . . I purchased a Kicker 46HS10 powered sub and I have it mostly figured out but still confused on "tapping" into B pillar wires . . . I want to connect to the "amp subwoofer 1, 2, 3, 4" respectively or . . . Now I'm confused again. In the box with the powered sub is a harness that has an obvious port on the sub itself and an octopus of wires coming out of the harness . . . Blue (won't use, cause I'm doing HI (speaker level) turn-on) toggled to DC, a ground wire (bare metal), power wire (to battery (+) and fuse thingy and a 2nd ground (bare metal) and then 4 wires - white (L +), white / black (L -), grey (R +), grey / black (R -) - where and what do I connect these four wires to in the B pillar . . . This posted wiring chart has me rethinking my life choices . . . There's only 4 wires but 8 amp subwoofer wires!? Help . . .

Sponsored