Rotors- Why do they look like this?

[Buckster]

If I had to guess, I'd say the outer portion of the outside brake pad broke of. Visually inspect or swing the caliper and pull the pads.

This.

Definitely no pad contact on the outer portion of the rotor. You should be able to get a decent visual just by pulling the wheel, but I'm betting that you will be replacing the pads. If the difference between the contact and non-contact area is minimal, you could probably get away with just "bedding" the new pads pretty hard. If it's been that way a while and the non-contact area has a defined lip, then you would likely need to get the rotor machined to even it out. Not sure who does that anymore though due to liability.

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[Jehovasfitness]

Figures as I'm 8 days past my 3 yr/36k mile warranty and at only 25k miles ugh.

 

[omnitonic]

Figures as I'm 8 days past my 3 yr/36k mile warranty and at only 25k miles ugh.

If you can reach the rotor with a fingernail, scratch across the area at the top where the shiny part transitions into the rough part. If you feel a lip there, the pad has worn into the rotor in a very weird way. If you don't feel a lip, then that rotor was made incorrectly.

Either way, I'd say it's time for a brake job on that axle.

If it makes you feel any better on the warranty thing, my last new vehicle was a Ford F150. I got many years of trouble free service out of it, but when I did have an expensive repair, it had just gone out of warranty. That pretty much seems to be how this game works. They make stuff to last juuuuuuust until the warranty is gone, and then whammo.

I can't think of any automotive fluid that would leave the kind of white residue you described. It could have been something weird on the road. I once spent forever trying to chase down a massive, catastrophic oil leak before I finally figured out I just had to have somehow run over a jug of oil in the middle of the road, and I squished it just perfectly to hose the underside from the engine back. When all other explanations have been eliminated, whatever remains, however unlikely, has to be the answer.

 

[mwilk012]

Not sure who does that anymore though due to liability.

Where do you get the idea that anyone stopped machining rotors due to “liability”? There’s no more liability than in doing any other brake system work. People stopped machining rotors because it takes much longer than replacement and techs don’t know how to run a lathe properly. O’Reillys will do them if you bring them the rotors.

 

[Jehovasfitness]

I can't think of any automotive fluid that would leave the kind of white residue you described. It could have been something weird on the road. I once spent forever trying to chase down a massive, catastrophic oil leak before I finally figured out I just had to have somehow run over a jug of oil in the middle of the road, and I squished it just perfectly to hose the underside from the engine back. When all other explanations have been eliminated, whatever remains, however unlikely, has to be the answer.

Thing is it happened last weekend and I cleaned it up for it to only return even worse. I did recently detail the car so maybe it's something I sprayed, can't think of what I did differently though.

 

[Headbarcode]

Figures as I'm 8 days past my 3 yr/36k mile warranty and at only 25k miles ugh.

A few months back, I replaced my factory pads and rotors with a set of PowerStop Z36 pads and rotors. Not a huge improvement in stopping power over stock, but a noticeable one. And their rotors don't rust over like the stockers. I got them in a bundled package from rockauto for a tad over $400.

 

[Sorbs]

Figures as I'm 8 days past my 3 yr/36k mile warranty and at only 25k miles ugh.

Brakes are only warrantied for 12k miles. That said, it looks like your pad is not seated correctly or your brake caliper is bent/scewed. Take the wheel off and look at the orientation of your caliper to the rotor.

 

[limeade]

A few months back, I replaced my factory pads and rotors with a set of PowerStop Z36 pads and rotors. Not a huge improvement in stopping power over stock, but a noticeable one. And their rotors don't rust over like the stockers. I got them in a bundled package from rockauto for a tad over $400.

I too have the Z36 brakes, front and rear. For the money, they are a good improvement over stock. Not great, but good.

 

[limeade]

Without me actually having my hands on it, your issue appears to be the outboard pad isn't making contact with the rotor surface correctly. This could be caused by what @Sorbs stated or the brake pad is hung up partially on the sliders (due to bent/broken clip or no lubrication), a bad piston, etc.

Luckily, doing brakes isn't hard.....plenty of Youtube videos can walk you through it......if you have the basic tools and mechanical ability. Plus, it will save you a lot in labor.

 

[Headbarcode]

I too have the Z36 brakes, front and rear. For the money, they are a good improvement over stock. Not great, but good.

My thoughts exactly. I'm already putting enough into my factory 44's with rcv's, knuckles, and ball joints. I'll save gears, air lockers, and 3 to 4 grand in an all inclusive brake system upgrade for when I have a set of 60's built.

 

[limeade]

My thoughts exactly. I'm already putting enough into my factory 44's with rcv's, knuckles, and ball joints. I'll save gears, air lockers, and 3 to 4 grand in an all inclusive brake system upgrade for when I have a set of 60's built.

Same here. I've got a re-gear scheduled for end of May, assuming my install kit comes in on time. Then I was thinking of trussing the front. I'm getting to the point where I should just sell the front and go with a Dynatrac Pro-Rock 44. Not really wanting to go to 60's.....yet!

 

[NJJeep Guy]

Pull the calipers and pads off and see which piece is the problem. I personally would plan on replacing the rotor and pads since that is a weird wear pattern. Good luck

 

[omnitonic]

Brakes are only warrantied for 12k miles.

That's interesting. I have no idea how the brakes are going to do on this Jeep over time, but my Ford F150 still has the factory brakes after 110,000 miles. The shop has never even hinted that I have a brake job in my near future. I was getting ready to change them on general principles anyway, but now I've decided to sell the truck.

It will be interesting to see how the brakes on the Jeep last. I guess if they're only warrantied for 12,000 miles, I should not expect much.

 

[Buckster]

Where do you get the idea that anyone stopped machining rotors due to “liability”? There’s no more liability than in doing any other brake system work. People stopped machining rotors because it takes much longer than replacement and techs don’t know how to run a lathe properly. O’Reillys will do them if you bring them the rotors.

Out of that entire post, you're going to call me out on that? Been a few years since I went looking to have a rotor turned, but that is my recollection. Thanks for your valuable input.

 

[Jehovasfitness]

That's interesting. I have no idea how the brakes are going to do on this Jeep over time, but my Ford F150 still has the factory brakes after 110,000 miles. The shop has never even hinted that I have a brake job in my near future. I was getting ready to change them on general principles anyway, but now I've decided to sell the truck.

It will be interesting to see how the brakes on the Jeep last. I guess if they're only warrantied for 12,000 miles, I should not expect much.

that's incredible. I mean, for drums I can see, but disc brakes at 110k? wow... our Honda Fit would go through pads every 45k miles or so, rotors at 95k, but a lot of that was like 80/20 city to highway driving

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