Right tires for my setup

[jhackathorne]

Apparently I’m mistaken on the offset of stock XR wheels. I swear I read that they were +25 but apparently they are +12. So I will have a little less than 1/2” less outward offset.

Shouldn't be an issue given you're not wheeling it. Now is your time to leave the thread before others start chiming in and you start to question your decision!

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[LiVinIt]

Shouldn't be an issue given you're not wheeling it. Now is your time to leave the thread before others start chiming in and you start to question your decision!

Lol, you’re right.

 

[entropy]

Forgot to add I’m going to be running Fox 2.0 shocks for 2-3” lift as recommended by Clayton.
The Autolynx disconnects are the only part I have left to order. I toyed with the idea of a Rubi takeoff and the manual conversion but the Apex seems like the most cost effective way to go for ease of use.

Clayton recommends 4.75 backspacing compared to my 5.7, which is what started my concern, but then I realized I’m running the exact setup as the XR, and got me thinking. I wonder if the Clayton control arms have less clearance than stock? I’ll have to give them a call.

The reason for these wheels versus less backspacing/more offset was to reduce tire poke as much as possible, while still allowing a decent tire size.

Sounds like I’ll be good with the larger tire, thanks again for all the help.

That's a great choice of shocks for that setup. If you want to save some cash get the Bilstein 5100s 2~3inch lift. Those are the shocks I've been running for over a year and they are very very nice. Quality shocks, same tier as the fox 2.0 but without "fox" name on them and for almost half the price.

 

[AcesandEights]

315 look stupid and 285 perform better, so I'd get the 285. That being said, you could do the mods, then buy the tires.

 

[STW]

warning! the following post mentions MPG:

when you decide between "34s" (285/75R17 ) and 35s (315/70R157) consider the weight and load rating..
For example in KO2s, the 34s (285/75s) are Load rating E, and are the same weight as the load C 35s (315/70).

If you're going with 34s to make sure you avoid any rubbing then that makes sense even though I don't think you're going to have a rubbing issue with 35s. But if you're going with KO2 34s for better mpg remember that they weigh just as much as a C-rated 35.

(I'm a fan of KO2s and run 35s but there are better 34s out there in other brands that might be load C. If you decide on 34s maybe look elsewhere than KO2. Also KO2 is pretty awful in deep sticky mud. They're great where I am in Utah but you'll see sticky mud in the Appalachians, where you mentioned you're headed, so consider that.)


Whether the 10% extra width between 285 and 315 will hurt your mpg or not is debatable, likely negligible, and has not been studied.

Meanwhile, choosing load rating C over E was a must for me for a Jeep (where Load C is already overkill for the load that will be carried) and I much prefer the aired down feel of load C over load E as well as the road feel, weight, everything else. I'd only get a load E tire for a truck carrying the weight load E is made for.

The wisdom on this site will teach you the MPG change you'll see going up in tire size will come from
1) from the extra height from your lift,
2) the change in gear ratio / leverage from bigger tire diameter (regear), and
3) extra rotating weight of heavier tires.

 

[LiVinIt]

I’ll be going with load rating C tires either way.
Looking at KO2’s in 315/70R17 at 62 lbs and Toyo AT3’s in 285/75R17 at 59 lbs

 

[Tncdrew]

@LiVinIt
Have you installed that Clayton 1.5" kit yet?
Looking forward to your feedback on it! ?

 

[LiVinIt]

@LiVinIt
Have you installed that Clayton 1.5" kit yet?
Looking forward to your feedback on it! ?

I’m starting tomorrow morning, not sure if I’ll get done in one weekend
I’m swapping to Rubicon axles and fenders as well.
I’ll update.

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