radiator-fan controller, or both?

[workky]

I have a 21 sport with 35's and 4.56 gears. I never have liked the cooling ability of this jeep. It seems when you get up in speed it will start heating up, when you slow down to about 60, it will cool back down again. I think that's just kinda freaky. I am use to V-8's, my boat doesn't run over 180.

Anywho, i pull a small camper (1600lbs) and my boat (2500lbs). When i pull the boat, i really take it easy and don't drive over 65 mph. Is there any product out there that will give me extra cooling? such as a bigger radiator. I know of 2 companies that make aftermarket radiators, but i don't know if it does any good, i've seen mixed reviews. Dont wanna pay that much moola and not see a difference

Thanks

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[mwilk012]

You won’t ever see temperatures below the thermostat opening point. If you are seeing high peak temperatures (245+) you may have a problem. Otherwise, you’re on a wild goose chase.

 

[workky]

I've cooled my jeep on the interstate down to 188 degrees just by driving 55 mph, itr fluctuates wildly up to 235 when towing or driving fast

 

[workky]

i can get it to stay below 200 just by driving 45mph -55mph. However, you put any juice to it and it shoots up rather quickly. For some reason, i just don't like that

 

[Jeeps2Little]

Did you ever decide on any changes or upgrades?

I have been wondering the same thing about more/better cooling. I was looking at the Mishimoto Radiator but can't find any reviews on it. Wonder also if there is any difference in the fans on the 2.0 vs 3.6 and why the RPM fan controller wouldn't work on the 2.0L.

What are your oil temps doing when you are getting that hot on the coolant? Seems like out west at higher altitudes (5000'-9000') my oil gets hot quicker than the coolant, especially going over mtn passes, etc. It always drops right back down but even with the fan kicking on full blast at 220* it doesn't drop until the load is off the motor.

 

[CptFloridaMan]

I've cooled my jeep on the interstate down to 188 degrees just by driving 55 mph, itr fluctuates wildly up to 235 when towing or driving fast

I’ve seen mine spike to 230 after a long WOT pull from 2nd gear all the way to 90mph. But it quickly settles below after i let off and hovers from the mid 190s to high 210s.

I’d suspect something is wrong with your jeep if it’s getting hotter going faster. Maybe check coolant levels?

The thing i’ve heard with aftermarket rads is they start cracking cause of chassis flex. Not sure if mishimoto solved that this time around with the JLs same for cold case.

 

[mwilk012]

Did you ever decide on any changes or upgrades?

I have been wondering the same thing about more/better cooling. I was looking at the Mishimoto Radiator but can't find any reviews on it. Wonder also if there is any difference in the fans on the 2.0 vs 3.6 and why the RPM fan controller wouldn't work on the 2.0L.

What are your oil temps doing when you are getting that hot on the coolant? Seems like out west at higher altitudes (5000'-9000') my oil gets hot quicker than the coolant, especially going over mtn passes, etc. It always drops right back down but even with the fan kicking on full blast at 220* it doesn't drop until the load is off the motor.

They crack. Often.

 

[Jeeps2Little]

They crack. Often.

Are you saying the Mishimoto radiators crack often? I see a number or references to the JK units leaking, but not many reviews on the JL version. Wonder why they would be more prone to cracking than the OEM ones, using the same mounts?

 

[jav_eee]

get the fan controller. it works.

 

[mwilk012]

Are you saying the Mishimoto radiators crack often? I see a number or references to the JK units leaking, but not many reviews on the JL version. Wonder why they would be more prone to cracking than the OEM ones, using the same mounts?

They are solid aluminum, much more rigid.

 

[Flip]

I recently installed the Rpm fan controller on my 2023, 3.6 sport. I wasn't having any problems, I just felt the factory temps were too high especially on the trail. I rarely see temps reach over 200. On the trail last week my coolant temp never went over 197. There are a few threads on the forum regarding the Rpm fan controller.

Best of luck.

 

[workky]

I recently installed the Rpm fan controller on my 2023, 3.6 sport. I wasn't having any problems, I just felt the factory temps were too high especially on the trail. I rarely see temps reach over 200. On the trail last week my coolant temp never went over 197. There are a few threads on the forum regarding the Rpm fan controller.

Best of luck.

Wish I could get one, he doesn't have one for the 2.0L

 

[workky]

I really thought airflow was an issue with these JL's. However , I've tested, I removed the whole grill and drove around, there was no change. I've got a larger radiator and there is a small change, but not enough. I have more capacity, that's about it.

Mine cools right down when I manually turn the fan on, but it sucks to be the fan controller.

I need an engineer to tell me this, is there a chance the water pump , pumps water too fast or to slow.
Is there a gold standard to water pressure, or pump water speed or whatever you wanna call it?

 

[SCJeeps]

It is all about flow, not pressure. Flow of air and flow of water through the system. By removing the grill you actually changed the system that helps direct flow across the radiator, the ducting effect, etc. The water pump just circulates the water, but an increase in flow is limited by the heat removal properties of the radiator, thus more flow won’t help if it didn’t remove any more heat. Based upon my experience the radiator has the correct size and is capable to remove the heat necessary. The holdback is the programming of the fan. The fact that a fan controller works tells you all you need to know, when increasing the fan speed you are increasing the heat removal via more flow ( read CFM) of air. I did the grill insert swap on my Jeep and noticed a difference in about 10 degrees. While underway my temps normally run 195-198, if I do a hard pull it will spike up to 212/215ish but only for a few seconds and then cools down. So while driving I feel good, I would expect however that at slow speeds I would still see higher temps like factory.

 

[mwilk012]

It is all about flow, not pressure. Flow of air and flow of water through the system. By removing the grill you actually changed the system that helps direct flow across the radiator, the ducting effect, etc. The water pump just circulates the water, but an increase in flow is limited by the heat removal properties of the radiator, thus more flow won’t help if it didn’t remove any more heat. Based upon my experience the radiator has the correct size and is capable to remove the heat necessary. The holdback is the programming of the fan. The fact that a fan controller works tells you all you need to know, when increasing the fan speed you are increasing the heat removal via more flow ( read CFM) of air. I did the grill insert swap on my Jeep and noticed a difference in about 10 degrees. While underway my temps normally run 195-198, if I do a hard pull it will spike up to 212/215ish but only for a few seconds and then cools down. So while driving I feel good, I would expect however that at slow speeds I would still see higher temps like factory.

That isn't true at all, mass flow rate is directly proportional to thermal power. Increasing coolant flow through the engine would decrease coolant temps significantly.

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