Power cutoff for Winch

[Flip]

That’s usually what I do, Zach. I’m very confident in the supplied switch; I think failure is a very very remote possibility. In spite of that, Jeremy’s post got me to thinking. I’m going to purchase an additional switch to carry as a spare.

Hey Jeff,

If for some reason the switch fried, wouldn't a jumper cable work in a pinch? Positive winch connection to positive battery post.

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[Wabujitsu]

Hey Jeff,

If for some reason the switch fried, wouldn't a jumper cable work in a pinch? Positive winch connection to positive battery post.

I suppose so John, IF you can achieve a good connection with the jumper cable.

 

[RudeJeepin]

Hey Jeff,

If for some reason the switch fried, wouldn't a jumper cable work in a pinch? Positive winch connection to positive battery post.

That, or just put both cable that are on the switch to the same side. Using the post on the switch to bolt the cable together. No extra cable or bolt needed.

 

[Atomic-Mouse]

I have been thinking of switching to 10W30 Quaker state oil, thoughts

 

[Jad4275]

I have been thinking of switching to 10W30 Quaker state oil, thoughts

Yes please

 

[Flip]

I have been thinking of switching to 10W30 Quaker state oil, thoughts

Quaker State is really the best oil.

 

[Wabujitsu]

Quaker State is really the best oil.

I think this thread, John, clearly calls for Amsoil…

 

[TheRaven]

P.S. for everyone so confident in their switches or fuses, go short yours out and see if it actually works. If you are afraid to do it, that says all that needs to be said. So far, nobody has had the courage to do it.

Courage? LOL. You mean stupidity, right?

Tell you what... I'll test a 250A fuse after you test yours in the same way: short it to ground for 10 seconds.

I did it. Twice. Not on purpose though. Blew a 150A and a 250A. My brother actually ended up in the hospital with second degree burns because of an unfused starter lead...his metal watch band hit a crossmember at the same time his hand brushed the lug and it literally welded his watch band solid.

Due to these experiences and others no one is ever going to convince me that an unfused power wire is better than a fused one.

 

[doc_riverz]

think again....

I was gunna quote this exact video. As a retired firefighter and mechanic I suggest a winch power cutoff is a good idea. I’ve pulled more than a few people out of wrecked Jeeps and the idea of a hot, severed, arcing, 400+amp wire nearby is very concerning.

 

[TheRaven]

I suppose so John, IF you can achieve a good connection with the jumper cable.

In the vast majority of cases, if a high current switch/disconnect device fails, you just have an unswitched (meaning always on) power lead. So you just end up with what Zach has.

 

[Flip]

I did it. Twice. Not on purpose though. Blew a 150A and a 250A. My brother actually ended up in the hospital with second degree burns because of an unfused starter lead...his metal watch band hit a crossmember at the same time his hand brushed the lug and it literally welded his watch band solid.

Due to these experiences and others no one is ever going to convince me that an unfused power wire is better than a fused one.

Amsoil is really the best oil.

 

[Wabujitsu]

In the vast majority of cases, if a high current switch/disconnect device fails, you just have an unswitched (meaning always on) power lead. So you just end up with what Zach has.

Even if I’m using all Amsoil products in my Jeep??

 

[Wabujitsu]

In the vast majority of cases, if a high current switch/disconnect device fails, you just have an unswitched (meaning always on) power lead. So you just end up with what Zach has.

Joking aside Kevin (see my last post above), if my mechanical switch fails, it will either leave the line hot, or it will leave it disconnected. It’s a simple rotating manual switch, nothing fancy about it. It can be in an “always on” or “always off” state if it fails. As others have said, if it fails in the field in “always off,” I can easily bypass it a number of simple ways.

 

[Flip]

Joking aside Kevin (see my last post above), if my mechanical switch fails, it will either leave the line hot, or it will leave it disconnected. It’s a simple rotating manual switch, nothing fancy about it. It can be in an “always on” or “always off” state if it fails. As others have said, if it fails in the field in “always off,” I can easily bypass it a number of simple ways.

Amsoil really is the best oil.

 

[Wabujitsu]

Amsoil really is the best oil.

John, this is the cut-off switch I’m using. Guaranteed to never fail!

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