Possible bad jump start.

[ElPlumbaro]

Hopefully someone can help me? My 2018 jl had a dead battery so I jumped it. Not sure if I did something wrong but now the power windows, heated seats, heated steering wheel, rear wiper and hvac blower are not working. I replaced the battery and the accessories battery had already been removed prior to this issue happening. I also replaced the 54AA fuse bank on the side of the fuse box. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Jason

Sponsored

 

[Bob Burd]

Have you checked for blown fuses in the PDC related to these accessories?

 

[ElPlumbaro]

Have you checked for blown fuses in the PDC related to these accessories?

I have, they all test out ok.

 

[Bob Burd]

Hmm. With that much not working, it's gotta be fuses or a misplaced wire. Possibly one of the connectors on the bottom of the PDC not seated properly? I'd get out the voltmeter and start poking around.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

Hopefully someone can help me? My 2018 jl had a dead battery so I jumped it. Not sure if I did something wrong but now the power windows, heated seats, heated steering wheel, rear wiper and hvac blower are not working. I replaced the battery and the accessories battery had already been removed prior to this issue happening. I also replaced the 54AA fuse bank on the side of the fuse box. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Jason

Did you originally access / changeout, the Aux battery by dismantling the PDC ?

 

[Redcanyon77]

I know it’s probably a long shot but my display/navigation/radio didn’t work after jumping. I had to disconnect the battery and let it sit for about ten minutes. Everything worked fine after.

 

[AndySpill]

When/how long ago did you replace the main battery? Was it in response to this need to jump start or was it something done a while back?

Especially if the main battery is not new, have you load tested it?

When the Aux battery was disconnected, what if any additional steps were taken to prevent the batteries from being separated at cold cranks and ESS events such as pulling Fuse 42 or jumpering terminals N1 and N2 of the PDC?

How, if at all do you prevent ESS events from occuring? Do you turn ESS off with its button each time you cold crank, have aftermarket tech to do it, or do nothing.

Does the ESS off light (the letter "A" with a near circle around it following by an exclamation point) appear in the EVIC (dash?)

How did you check the high amp fuses. Was it with a continuity tester?

 

[ElPlumbaro]

Did you originally access / changeout, the Aux battery by dismantling the PDC ?

The aux battery was removed by the previous owner, I had the jeep for the last 6 months w/o any issues. 24 of the fuses are not getting power to them. I have read the bcm could be the problem. Does anyone know what fuse would control the bcm?

 

[Yawnie'sPapa]

When the Aux battery was disconnected, what if any additional steps were taken to prevent the batteries from being separated at cold cranks and ESS events such as pulling Fuse 42 or jumpering terminals N1 and N2 of the PDC?

How, if at all do you prevent ESS events from occuring? Do you turn ESS off with its button each time you cold crank, have aftermarket tech to do it, or do nothing.

Does the ESS off light (the letter "A" with a near circle around it following by an exclamation point) appear in the EVIC (dash?)

How did you check the high amp fuses. Was it with a continuity tester?

None of the aux battery bypasses kill ESS. That takes an ESS kill device (a forum sponsor sells those) or tazer or something like it, or push the button.
None of the fuse pulling or jumpers you mention prevent ESS.
If the A ESS error icon is lit - there's a bigger problem the system is detecting. That's an error condition.

High current fuse array - charges aux battery, is fuse for alternator, powers EHPS, fan, if N3 in that array is blown, without a jumper feeding N1, the electronics don't get power either.

 

[AndySpill]

None of the aux battery bypasses kill ESS.

None of the aux battery bypasses that either jumper N1 to N2 and/or involve deenergizing the Power Control Relay (PCR) such as pulling Fuse 42 kill the ESS system.

I'm aware.

Disconnecting the Aux battery and not effecting this Fuse pull or jumper will though cause the cold crank thereafter to fail, followed by subsequent cranks to work if the main battery has ample current, turning ESS off in the dash, for all but early model 2018's without TSB 18-092-19. Early model 2018s without this TSB don't crank.

So this bypass does kill ESS which is why I asked about the ESS light in the dash. I was trying to find out by my line of questioning what, other than the ESS/Aux battery disconnection was done.

I'm a step ahead here Bill, not behind.

That takes an ESS kill device (a forum sponsor sells those) or tazer or something like it, or push the button.

...provided you've rerouted calls for power from the ESS battery to all available batteries, which for the OP is just the main battery through the fused jumper or fuse 42 pull

None of the fuse pulling or jumpers you mention prevent ESS.

I know. I was trying to ascertain if the opposite was done...if no fused jumper or Fuse 42 pull was done.

If the A ESS error icon is lit - there's a bigger problem the system is detecting. That's an error condition.

That's possible Bill, as sure as this light will go on if just the ESS/Aux battery is disconnected, on the 2nd attempt to cold crank thereafter, in the vehicle's described above where no jumper of N1 to N2 or deenergizing of the PCR is done.

High current fuse array - charges aux battery, is fuse for alternator, powers EHPS, fan, if N3 in that array is blown, without a jumper feeding N1, the electronics don't get power either.

See my point about checking the high amp fuse array's fuses for continuity.

 

[trouphaz]

Not sure if you are still having an issue, but my 2019 had the auto stop/start fail while I was at a stop light. I had AAA come and jump start it and it ran very briefly and roughly before telling me to pull over (I never left the parking lot). He towed it to my local mechanic who replaced the 2 batteries, but couldn't get it running. I took it to the local dealership and it took them a while to figure it out. Now the only problem is that I only sort of remember what they said they did to fix it since this was a while ago. The mechanic needed to work with Jeep to figure out the issue. I remember he said that there was a fusible link that was bad. He said this was there to protect the components in case someone tried to jump start the car and put the cables on backwards.

So, I hope that is enough to help you or maybe put you in the right direction. Good luck!

Sponsored