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JJ_WA

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SlickRicksWilly

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What approach will you use to mount your winch to it?
My guess is wood screws. :giggle:

But seriously this is one of my favorite builds to watch in this forum. I wish I had the ability to buy a new vehicle and rip it apart. Unfortunately I have to find the balance between fun off road and daily driver.
 

JJ_WA

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I would need to use three snatch blocks and then be yanking myself pretty hard to tear It off. I :handsinair:
Dude, this falls into the TMI category. . .
 

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Probably going to have to purchase a fairlead plate, but beyond that I was just going to go out and get some grade 8 steel bolts and some really nice thick washers and just screw it to it.

Same thing with the bumper to the frame, grade 8 steel bolts nuts washers, and tighten it down.

My winch is 13,000 lbs, so with the tensile strength of the aluminum I have, I would need to use three snatch blocks and then be yanking myself pretty hard to tear It off. If I remember right the synthetic rope with the winch has a lower breaking strength than the aluminum. So realistically if anything were to snap it would be the synthetic rope the winch came with.. 🤷‍♂️ ;) :handsinair:
You'll mount it to the front or on top?

On top will introduce a crapload of twisting force and potentially limiting airflow to your engine. On front will stick way the hell out there, severely impacting your approach angle.

Or maybe you'll somehow put the winch behind it w/o significantly impacting its structural integrity?
 

phageghost

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At the same time too, I've never understood the whole back pressure idea. It's exhaust, not intake. I never understood how back pressure made any sense.
Me neither! Then a while back I had it explained to me properly. It's actually not backpressure you want, it's the opposite. You use momentum to generate negative "backpressure". That is, the column of exhaust gas that gets moving down the tube during an exhaust cycle wants to keep moving, so that during the next exhaust cycle it helps suck the exhaust gases out more thoroughly and with less resistance. And this doesn't work unless the exhaust is confined to a tube of some sort. That's the basic principle.

In practice, with multiple cylinders interacting and pressure waves bouncing back and forth and harmonics it gets quite complicated but luckily there are engineers who know how to tune variables like header length, exhaust diameter, valve timing, etc. to get the desired mix of low end and high end power. It's this tuning that gets screwed with when making modifications to the exhaust system.
 

Centurion07

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On top. In front would look dumb. Plus it would take away any ability to put a license plate on the front bumper.

If that's true about the structural integrity and twisting, than any aftermarket aluminum front bumper is going to do that. It just helps that mine is on average three times thicker than the ready to install brands you buy.

If limiting airflow is an issue from a bumper like mine which is going to be extremely low profile compared to other front bumpers on the market including the one I had on there before, then everyone is fucked, not just me.. thankfully airflow is going to be less of an issue with this bumper then it was with the last one. Not that really matters my Jeep seems to do just fine in 100 plus degree weather doing 110 on the freeway. :LOL: :like:
Yep, I've had a winch and lights sitting in front of my grill, since 2019, in TX, almost 100K miles. Airflow won't be an issue.
 

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You sure you couldn’t low mount a winch on a winch plate between the frame rails, then have the winch line come through a slot in the aluminum like most bumpers?
IMG_7942.webp
With the aluminum angle he has, he could almost round the inner edges of the slot, making his bumper like a hawse fairlead.
 

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I guess I didn't mention, part of the trade was I gave away my soft top.

I'm cool with it. I'm at the point now where I'd rather have the hardtop with all of its modification possibilities. I can't really do much to play with the soft top, You can't screw into it, can't cut holes in it, it won't support anything. I can't even run my roof rack with the actual soft top, I have to use it with an aftermarket waterproof top.

So having a hard top is a big upgrade if you ask me. Plus this way allows me to learn how to do fiberglass which is something I wanted to learn for a while.
Will you be able to mount that roof rack to it?
 

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I was actually thinking about keeping that mount in the back and putting a bottle jack back there instead. Cuz I don't want to have to pull out the high lift every time I need to lift up the Jeep on the road. Rather just save it for off-road purposes and have something simple for on Road.
Wait, do you frequently need to jack up your rig on the road?
 

Ratbert

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Nope, never have in 3 years, but it's good to have one all the same. And it saves on space inside of the Jeep. I know a couple guys on here who carry bottle Jack and an off-road Jack. Been meaning to get a Harbor Freight bottle jack for the last year, just keep putting it off.
It seems unnecessarily redundant to have an additional one for a scenario that has never happened, especially when you have a massive alternative already strapped on. Just my opinion, of course.
 

Heimkehr

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Been meaning to get a Harbor Freight bottle jack for the last year, just keep putting it off.
They've a decent selection, including the rare 4 ton if that particular rating is part of your use case.

I carry a 2 ton bottle jack in the Ural's trunk, since the center stand only raises the pusher off the ground. The jack gives me options for the steer and hack tires.

If'n you do carry a bottle jack, stow it upright at all times to prevent leakage. 👍
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