Overlanding battery

[moodywizard]

Correct, 48V lithium pack is used on the 2.0 with eTorque/BSG.

I am actually testing using the 48V lithium pack to power my fridge and compressor via a 48V to 24V DC convertor. The big benefit here is no extra weight for another battery and higher efficiency due to the higher voltages.

The other benefit is these systems are isolated already and intelligent charging of the 48V system at the higher voltage also built into the BSG.

Cool, you should market it. Don't believe anyone has any "dual battery" kits for the 2.0 yet.

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[IronScott]

Cool, you should market it. Don't believe anyone has any "dual battery" kits for the 2.0 yet.

The Genesis kit works with the 2.0 but maybe that’s not what you’re talking about. https://www.genesisoffroad.com/jl-dual-battery-kit

The Q&A section mentions it.

 

[Overland Productions]

Correct, 48V lithium pack is used on the 2.0 with eTorque/BSG.

I am actually testing using the 48V lithium pack to power my fridge and compressor via a 48V to 24V DC convertor. The big benefit here is no extra weight for another battery and higher efficiency due to the higher voltages.

The other benefit is these systems are isolated already and intelligent charging of the 48V system at the higher voltage also built into the BSG.

A detailed post describing your journey on this project would make for some very interesting reading. A video walk around would be great too!

 

[ebelp]

Correct, 48V lithium pack is used on the 2.0 with eTorque/BSG.

I am actually testing using the 48V lithium pack to power my fridge and compressor via a 48V to 24V DC convertor. The big benefit here is no extra weight for another battery and higher efficiency due to the higher voltages.

The other benefit is these systems are isolated already and intelligent charging of the 48V system at the higher voltage also built into the BSG.

Nice! I'd like to hear more about your setup. Which convertor are you using and how do you have it wired?

 

[oceanblue2019]

A detailed post describing your journey on this project would make for some very interesting reading. A video walk around would be great too!

Nice! I'd like to hear more about your setup. Which convertor are you using and how do you have it wired?

Sure, will share more once it's working and all the smoke genies have been released....

So far using a 48VDC to 24VDC Vicor convertor as used them before and understand them well. High efficiency @ 94% or so. The output of that goes to a fuse block that directly supplies the fridge and compressor.

I maybe able to squeeze a bit more efficiency going to two convertors, one for the fridge sized for it's overall current draw, and another for the compressor also optimized. That way when compressor not in use could use relay in front of the convertor so it's not even seeing power and no parasitic loss. But this will need testing to see if it's worth it.

It is a very simple setup as most of the system is already in place due to the eTorque/BSG and hybrid battery.

If they made 48V input fridge and compressor it would be even easier! Just a fuse block needed.

 

[moodywizard]

The Genesis kit works with the 2.0 but maybe that’s not what you’re talking about. https://www.genesisoffroad.com/jl-dual-battery-kit

The Q&A section mentions it.

Didnt realize it worked with the 2.0 as well, fitment wise. Good to know for those with the 2.0,


But originally I was replying to oceanblue2019 post about having the hybrid batteries being used for accessories and such..

 

[IronScott]

Didnt realize it worked with the 2.0 as well, fitment wise. Good to know for those with the 2.0,


But originally I was replying to oceanblue2019 post about having the hybrid batteries being used for accessories and such..

Sure. Just trying to help with things I've learned. I have a 2.0 as well and would like to understand how the hybrid battery could be used, if at all.

I'd also like that dual battery setup but can't see spending that money right now. New front axle first

 

[moodywizard]

Sure. Just trying to help with things I've learned. I have a 2.0 as well and would like to understand how the hybrid battery could be used, if at all.

He said he is already doing it, not sure myself as I have the 3.6 with the genesis kit as designed.

Probably just have to tap into the power lines running to the battery pack and let the factory charging stuff do its job. But as he stated its 48V so you would need an inverter to convert to 12V or in his case the ARB fridge and compressor accept 24V as is since they're an aussie outfit.

 

[oceanblue2019]

He said he is already doing it, not sure myself as I have the 3.6 with the genesis kit as designed.

Probably just have to tap into the power lines running to the battery pack and let the factory charging stuff do its job. But as he stated its 48V so you would need an inverter to convert to 12V or in his case the ARB fridge and compressor accept 24V as is since they're an aussie outfit.

Yes exactly. It is a simple install but don't want to fully document it until I know it works with no ill effects. It's a very high power density battery so some caution needs to be taken. Shorting out a lithium battery is quite different from shorting out a sealed lead or AGM as they will ignite and can not be put out with standard fire extinguishers -- hence the spectacular Tesla fires we see in the media.

But from a high level It is just intercepting the 48VDC hybrid battery wiring and running that into a circuit breaker and into a 48V to 24V convertor. That feeds into a fuse block that then powers your 24V accessories - in my case one fused circuit for fridge and one fused circuit for the compressor. I plan to put the convertor and fuse block in the rear cargo compartment, along with the compressor, and have ordered a AAP mounting plate but on back order.

So far no check engine lights, and in testing running down the hybrid battery deliberately and then an engine start just tells you the start/stop is not ready and it charges it back up in about 15 minutes. The system really does charge quickly which is what I think will be a benefit - just a short drive or a bit of idling to recover your "house" battery.

You could probably also use solar to help keep it charged, I may look at that eventually if this works out.

 

[moodywizard]

Yes exactly. It is a simple install but don't want to fully document it until I know it works with no ill effects. It's a very high power density battery so some caution needs to be taken. Shorting out a lithium battery is quite different from shorting out a sealed lead or AGM as they will ignite and can not be put out with standard fire extinguishers -- hence the spectacular Tesla fires we see in the media.

But from a high level It is just intercepting the 48VDC hybrid battery wiring and running that into a circuit breaker and into a 48V to 24V convertor. That feeds into a fuse block that then powers your 24V accessories - in my case one fused circuit for fridge and one fused circuit for the compressor. I plan to put the convertor and fuse block in the rear cargo compartment, along with the compressor, and have ordered a AAP mounting plate but on back order.

So far no check engine lights, and in testing running down the hybrid battery deliberately and then an engine start just tells you the start/stop is not ready and it charges it back up in about 15 minutes. The system really does charge quickly which is what I think will be a benefit - just a short drive or a bit of idling to recover your "house" battery.

You could probably also use solar to help keep it charged, I may look at that eventually if this works out.

Great info and agree on all points. Rustys has a rear compressor mount for half price of aal, just an fyi. aal can have lengthy lead times, love their products though. I have the rusty mount under my aal storage platform and drawers no issues.

 

[twisty]

DC/DC chargers use a sense wire to know when the engine is off or on. This is needed due to smart alternators on most modern vehicles. The wire is tapped into the ignition fuse in the engine compartment. I used space F52 with a 20amp fuse on my system. This allows the dc/dc charger to maintain a constant charge while the smart alternator fluctuates high and low while driving.

The 75A fuse protects the battery, wire, and device from surges. They are installed as close the the battery terminal as possible. The charger he chose is rated for 50amp so the next fuse up is usually 75A.

The starter battery and smaller aux battery are still in place as his system is an auxiliary set up in the back of his vehicle. The smaller aux battery is only in play with the 3.6 as the 2.0 Turbo motors do not have an aux battery underneath. I believe he has a Gladiator in which case it will be the 3.6 with ESS and aux battery underneath.

I thought it was F50, guessing there are more than one that you can pick. Why not disconnect the smart alternator from negative like some have done?

I may keep the small ESS battery until I learn more but the goal is to ditch it eventually. By that I mean remove it and replace it for a larger more accessible battery.

 

[twisty]

Are these DC to DC chargers something you need to fiddle with once installed? If installed and done I want to know if I can stash it out of my way. For example perhaps where the AUX battery used to be assuming I get rid of it.

 

[oceanblue2019]

Are these DC to DC chargers something you need to fiddle with once installed? If installed and done I want to know if I can stash it out of my way. For example perhaps where the AUX battery used to be assuming I get rid of it.

Depends. Some have bluetooth connectivity to the programming/monitoring interface which makes it hands off. Some have USB ports you may need access to until you get the systems running smoothly.

 

[twisty]

No issues to report, been about a year running it this way.

I disco'd mine and it threw a light up on the dash. Is this what I should expect?

 

[moodywizard]

I disco'd mine and it threw a light up on the dash. Is this what I should expect?

Are you running the genesis setup? If in stock form removing it would probably cause a dash light...

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