Overlanding battery

Punk'n2doorsport

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Im gonna have to look in to this, because i also found out i did an oopsie and youre supposed to wire dc-dc directly to trailer battery and not chain like i did
 

dpike

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i wasn't finding what i really wanted in a house battery from the goal zero/ jackery type of units (and i'm non committal on a hard wired house battery) so i'm playing with a powerbox type set up with a 40Ah lifepo4 battery from powerwerks. the box is small, can relocate it easily, and gives quite a bit of versatility. i spoke with the engineers at bioenno battery and they said using a 20 amp dc-dc charger would be fine, so this lets me set a dedicated charge point and expansion flexibility. a few 12 and 10ga extensions with anderson connectors will get power to what i need without wiring in a dedicated breakerbox.
 

TennesseePA

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Not sure I have posted what I did with my setup in my Gladiator. I have two 100 Ah LiFePO4 batteries charged via a RedArc BCDC40. I have it set up with an Anderson plug with 4 AWG wire so that I can place my inverter as much as 25 feet away from my battery. I have 6 12V cigarette lighter 12V plugs and a fuse block to add more 12V and I decide to grow the system. I also have a NOCO 25 amp charger that I leave the cables attached to auxiliary lugs for home charging. Everything is mounted to a piece of plywood so I can move it anywhere it is needed.

In the interest of full disclosure I do sell the batteries and refrigerators so I kinda set my system up to show off my stuff and just how much powers the LiFePO4 batteries can deliver.

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Punk'n2doorsport

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Not sure I have posted what I did with my setup in my Gladiator. I have two 100 Ah LiFePO4 batteries charged via a RedArc BCDC40. I have it set up with an Anderson plug with 4 AWG wire so that I can place my inverter as much as 25 feet away from my battery. I have 6 12V cigarette lighter 12V plugs and a fuse block to add more 12V and I decide to grow the system. I also have a NOCO 25 amp charger that I leave the cables attached to auxiliary lugs for home charging. Everything is mounted to a piece of plywood so I can move it anywhere it is needed.

In the interest of full disclosure I do sell the batteries and refrigerators so I kinda set my system up to show off my stuff and just how much powers the LiFePO4 batteries can deliver.

4789B168-FFA0-4FAC-8C13-ACC77A751CA6.jpeg


2F15F22B-F267-4DB6-8E3C-AB02D891E36D.jpeg


D61711A4-C0D7-4014-8C52-BC570C6D2B34.jpeg


53093DC0-D581-4150-A026-52DF9A2149C1.jpeg
Can you show me how you wired the norco charger because when i double up my trailer battery i want to mount one and use it as shore power basically
 

TennesseePA

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Can you show me how you wired the norco charger because when i double up my trailer battery i want to mount one and use it as shore power basically
It is a very simple install. If you look at my attached picture you can see the pigtail attached to two distribution lugs. I just leave it attached at all times and plug in the NOCO when I have been using the batteries and haven’t run the Jeep in a while. I probably need to clean up the installation a little but it works and I’ve moved on to another project.

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Punk'n2doorsport

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It is a very simple install. If you look at my attached picture you can see the pigtail attached to two distribution lugs. I just leave it attached at all times and plug in the NOCO when I have been using the batteries and haven’t run the Jeep in a while. I probably need to clean up the installation a little but it works and I’ve moved on to another project.

3570588A-01AF-42F8-923E-F72D92CFEAD0.png
Thats soo cool! Thanks for clarification
 

Alamein.sajib

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This is my dual battery setup I have done recently.

tried to use the space around the Jeep that otherwise have no meaningful use.

- 210ah Lithium Lifepo4 Battery
- Redarc BCDC 50ah charger for the lithium battery
- Cole Hersee 200ah isolator for jump start and connecting both batteries on demand (winching and air compressor)
- 3,000watt AC inverter with built-in AC charger for shore power
- 12V power panel with isolators, USB, Anderson outputs and 5 fused switches for camp lights and fridge

used it for about a month and a bit, so far so good!

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Overland Productions

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This is my dual battery setup I have done recently.

tried to use the space around the Jeep that otherwise have no meaningful use.

- 210ah Lithium Lifepo4 Battery
- Redarc BCDC 50ah charger for the lithium battery
- Cole Hersee 200ah isolator for jump start and connecting both batteries on demand (winching and air compressor)
- 3,000watt AC inverter with built-in AC charger for shore power
- 12V power panel with isolators, USB, Anderson outputs and 5 fused switches for camp lights and fridge

used it for about a month and a bit, so far so good!
Nice work! That is the most under utilized space in a Jeep Wrangler
 

Punk'n2doorsport

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This is my dual battery setup I have done recently.

tried to use the space around the Jeep that otherwise have no meaningful use.

- 210ah Lithium Lifepo4 Battery
- Redarc BCDC 50ah charger for the lithium battery
- Cole Hersee 200ah isolator for jump start and connecting both batteries on demand (winching and air compressor)
- 3,000watt AC inverter with built-in AC charger for shore power
- 12V power panel with isolators, USB, Anderson outputs and 5 fused switches for camp lights and fridge

used it for about a month and a bit, so far so good!

IMG_1066.jpg
IMG_1067.jpg
IMG_1085.jpg
IMG_1088.jpg
IMG_1091.jpg
IMG_1093.jpg
Sickest set up i have seen in a whilee god damn!!
 

dpike

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i think i'm going to try a simpler set up before i wire up something a little overly complicated for me..

powerbox..
-power-box-for-30-70ah-bioenno-batteries__9383_580.jpg


battery
thium-iron-phosphate-lifepo4-battery-pvc__7773_580.jpg


and hardwiring this dc charger
3a-car-charger-for-12v-lifepo4-batteries__1823_580.jpg


i already added a few more anderson connectors to the box and a mppt solar charge controller. 3amps from the DC charger isn't very impressive and i could just as easily add a higher output ac charger from the jeeps inverter or an auxiliary inverter connected to the jeeps battery. the modular flexibility this setup adds would work better for me than a semi/permanently installed system that takes up more space that i can dedicate for it.
 

bibanul

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I'm coming over from the Gladiator sister forum, but there's more activity here on this subject...

I was looking at the RedArc BCDC until I found the Renogy DCC50S (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W84SS41/). It has the same functions, supports up to 50A and 660W of solar, and is only $285 on Amazon right now. The best thing is the solar input will actually charge the starter battery once the house battery is full. The RedArc can't do that. Similar to the RedArc, it uses an ignition signal wire, which helps let the charger know that the engine is on, which is necessary due to the smart alternators.

Will use a fuse tap into Fuse 50 in the fuse box, which is tied to ignition (https://www.amazon.com/Etopars-Vehicle-circuit-MICRO2-Adapter/dp/B077PBXGKQ/).

Going to use several Anderson-style connectors to make it modular (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DWXM7DD/). I would be able connect the 12-circuit fuse block directly to the starter battery if needed or I can have the solar panel charge the starter battery directly.

Here's the fuse block I will install: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC/

Using terminal mount fuses on the batteries to protect the wiring: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LC4YYY1/

Other parts I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051P1L52/, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TBCGBZC/, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KBF9C4L/, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MW27JNZ/, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0824QH52X/, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBQYGK6/

Will also probably use this battery enclosure as it has a battery monitor and 2x 12V sockets built in, although I will bypass the 60 circuit breaker and just wire direct to the battery using the 150A terminal fuse: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PTHKMG/

See below for the schematic I put together.

upload_2020-1-30_13-36-3.png
Thanks for sharing this, Im not clear where the N3 + PCR circuit comes into play in this diagram. if you added the DCS50 in parallel with N3+PCR then it's kinda defeating the house battery isolation. If you added it in series then the N1 circuit is not alternator powered unless DCS is "charging" the battery which means N1 runs on your AUX battery when engine is on. The only way to get power from alternator to N1/Electronics seems to be via N3+PCR charging circuit that is closed at all times except when ESS is on.

If the house battery is fully charged and your engine is running, then the DCS50 disconnects charge to Aux battery and they check it every 30 seconds I guess. In that case, your entire N1 electronics runs on battery and not on Alternator.

I'd love to see how you wired it, I have a similar setup waiting to be wired and I was considering injecting DCC50 in series between N3 and the PCR connector to N3.

Thanks!
 

remlemasi

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Thanks for sharing this, Im not clear where the N3 + PCR circuit comes into play in this diagram. if you added the DCS50 in parallel with N3+PCR then it's kinda defeating the house battery isolation. If you added it in series then the N1 circuit is not alternator powered unless DCS is "charging" the battery which means N1 runs on your AUX battery when engine is on. The only way to get power from alternator to N1/Electronics seems to be via N3+PCR charging circuit that is closed at all times except when ESS is on.

If the house battery is fully charged and your engine is running, then the DCS50 disconnects charge to Aux battery and they check it every 30 seconds I guess. In that case, your entire N1 electronics runs on battery and not on Alternator.

I'd love to see how you wired it, I have a similar setup waiting to be wired and I was considering injecting DCC50 in series between N3 and the PCR connector to N3.

Thanks!
The DCC50S is only hooked up to battery/electronics at two points, 1) directly to the positive terminal of the starter battery, and 2) tapping into Fuse 50 for the signal. I am actually not sure if the Fuse 50 continues to supply the signal when ESS is active and the engine is stopped. If it stays active, then the house battery will continue to charge off of the starter battery even when the engine is paused. If not, then charging will pause until the ESS event is over.

The way my system is wired up, it has nothing to do with PCR, ESS, and the Aux battery. The ONLY thing that determines whether or not the DCC50S is pulling power from the starter is the signal wire from Fuse 50.

It's definitely not wired in parallel to N3+PCR, but I guess you could say it's wired in parallel to the N2, which really one and the same as the starter/alternator.

The downside to my system is that I cannot power vehicle electronics directly from my house battery. A deeper reading of your post suggests that is what you're trying to accomplish. Is that correct?

Any any case, I'll snap some photos in a bit and post them here.
 

bibanul

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The DCC50S is only hooked up to battery/electronics at two points, 1) directly to the positive terminal of the starter battery, and 2) tapping into Fuse 50 for the signal. I am actually not sure if the Fuse 50 continues to supply the signal when ESS is active and the engine is stopped. If it stays active, then the house battery will continue to charge off of the starter battery even when the engine is paused. If not, then charging will pause until the ESS event is over.

The way my system is wired up, it has nothing to do with PCR, ESS, and the Aux battery. The ONLY thing that determines whether or not the DCC50S is pulling power from the starter is the signal wire from Fuse 50.

It's definitely not wired in parallel to N3+PCR, but I guess you could say it's wired in parallel to the N2, which really one and the same as the starter/alternator.

The downside to my system is that I cannot power vehicle electronics directly from my house battery. A deeper reading of your post suggests that is what you're trying to accomplish. Is that correct?

Any any case, I'll snap some photos in a bit and post them here.
Yeah, Im trying to replace the AUX with a LiPo hence I need a separate charger not the direct alternator. I was thinking to inject the DCC50 in series with the alternator to ensure the AUX LIPO chargers at proper voltage AND when off, LIPO won't charge back the Main AGM since LIPO rest voltage is greater than Main AGM one :).

The idea I have is to power electronics off the AUX while at the beach and charge solar at the same time while I enjoy the Alpine stereo etc. Otherwise I can keep the Aux AGM and simply get just an MPPT solar controller and put it on top of the Main Batt (since Aux+Main are connected when NOT in ESS mode)
 

remlemasi

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Yeah, Im trying to replace the AUX with a LiPo hence I need a separate charger not the direct alternator. I was thinking to inject the DCC50 in series with the alternator to ensure the AUX LIPO chargers at proper voltage AND when off, LIPO won't charge back the Main AGM since LIPO rest voltage is greater than Main AGM one :).

The idea I have is to power electronics off the AUX while at the beach and charge solar at the same time while I enjoy the Alpine stereo etc. Otherwise I can keep the Aux AGM and simply get just an MPPT solar controller and put it on top of the Main Batt (since Aux+Main are connected when NOT in ESS mode)
Yeah, that’s a pretty different application than it’s intended for. Not saying you couldn’t make it work, but just not as straightforward.

If I were you, I would start by completely removing the Aux battery, and in its place, hook up DCC50S “ALT+“ going towards the PCR relay (and ultimately the alternator if/when the PCR relay allows it).

Hook up DCC50S “OUT+“ to both the LiFePo battery and “N1,” to supply the vehicle electronics. You would still need to connect the “IGN” signal wire to Fuse 50 (or equivalent, like just jumping it to the “ALT+“ might work since that’s coming from the alternator anyway).

The only remaining question would be the PCR /Aux battery check when starting up. I don’t know if the voltage is read on the “N1” side or the ”PCR” side as they are normally one and the same with no DC-DC in between (read the @Jebiruph ESS guides for more info). If it’s the former, then you should be good to go. If it’s the latter, then unplugging the PCR “C2” connection should do it, which permanently engages the relay.

YMMV and do all this at your own risk, I take no responsibility if anything goes wrong, big or small. But do let us know how it goes!
 

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