Search results

From Jebiruph's thread on Cold Starts: Based on this, it's my understanding that the Aux battery "check" is really just the KIN / RFH maintaining power when the PCR is blipped. It's not "measured" per se. Not at N1, not at PCR. It's just making sure the KIN / RFH still have power, which, when...

You have the DCC50S in between N3 and PCR. I’m suggesting putting the DCC50S in between the PCR and N1+LiFePo. DCC50S “ALT+“ goes to PCR, DCC50S “OUT+” goes to the N1+LiFePo. Won’t the way I suggested solve most of the issues you bring up?

Yeah, that’s a pretty different application than it’s intended for. Not saying you couldn’t make it work, but just not as straightforward. If I were you, I would start by completely removing the Aux battery, and in its place, hook up DCC50S “ALT+“ going towards the PCR relay (and ultimately the...

The DCC50S is only hooked up to battery/electronics at two points, 1) directly to the positive terminal of the starter battery, and 2) tapping into Fuse 50 for the signal. I am actually not sure if the Fuse 50 continues to supply the signal when ESS is active and the engine is stopped. If it...

I love the new Bronco, but I’m rolling my eyes a bit at the ”best-in-class” clearance and angle numbers since they are due almost entirely to the larger tiers. I.e. 11.6” for Bronco with 35” tires or 10.8” for Rubi with 33” tires. Anyone with a middle-school education can see that the Rubi has a...

Been awhile! I'm usually on the Gladiator forum and don't get all the notifications here. System was running great until the end of my Moab trip. Did 100 miles over 3 nights on the White Rim Road. Absolutely amazing. The Renogy stopped charging the house battery about halfway through the trip...

Completely fair points. 25A would’ve been plenty for me as well and would have allowed me to run lighter cables from the engine bay to the back. The kicker for me was the fact that the solar panels can go back and top up the starter battery. I started to design a schematic on paper that provides...

This exactly. With a DC-DC charger, you get optimum charging for the house battery, and can use to a LiFePo if you want. No need to having matching chemistries. Additionally, you only need to buy one battery at less than $200 versus two new batteries at $300 each (and you may be getting rid of...

I'm coming over from the Gladiator sister forum, but there's more activity here on this subject... I was looking at the RedArc BCDC until I found the Renogy DCC50S (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W84SS41/). It has the same functions, supports up to 50A and 660W of solar, and is only $285...