Overlanding battery

[GRAK]

We are trying to work on something, but the complex shape of the Rubicon hood makes for some very limited design parameters. If we do get a Rubicon panel made it would likely only be ~30-40 watts.

We've had several customers swap out their Rubicon hood's with a Sport hood so they can run our 80 watt panel.

If you also just offered a longer fatter cable running to an external panel I could prop up in the sun at camp, that would be great for me.

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[Cascadia4x4]

If you also just offered a longer fatter cable running to an external panel I could prop up in the sun at camp, that would be great for me.

We are working on something along these lines! Stay tuned

 

[twisty]

I just thought I would post and update to those who are running dual batteries and want the alternator charging at 14V+ full time. I did some research on the IBS (intelligent battery system..) and I unplugged the IBS sensor on the ground, ever since my voltage has been above 14V with no dash lights etc.

Where is this IBS sensor?

 

[moodywizard]

Where is this IBS sensor?

connected to the battery negative post.

 

[twisty]

You would think by now some outfit would come up with a total overland plan or plans for the JL along with all the popular rigs.

I'm green on all this stuff and plopping money down on components in a kit would be something I am interested in.

 

[twisty]

I'm coming over from the Gladiator sister forum, but there's more activity here on this subject...

I was looking at the RedArc BCDC until I found the Renogy DCC50S (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W84SS41/). It has the same functions, supports up to 50A and 660W of solar, and is only $285 on Amazon right now. The best thing is the solar input will actually charge the starter battery once the house battery is full. The RedArc can't do that. Similar to the RedArc, it uses an ignition signal wire, which helps let the charger know that the engine is on, which is necessary due to the smart alternators.

Will use a fuse tap into Fuse 50 in the fuse box, which is tied to ignition (https://www.amazon.com/Etopars-Vehicle-circuit-MICRO2-Adapter/dp/B077PBXGKQ/).

Going to use several Anderson-style connectors to make it modular (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DWXM7DD/). I would be able connect the 12-circuit fuse block directly to the starter battery if needed or I can have the solar panel charge the starter battery directly.

Here's the fuse block I will install: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC/

Using terminal mount fuses on the batteries to protect the wiring: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LC4YYY1/

Other parts I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051P1L52/, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TBCGBZC/, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KBF9C4L/, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MW27JNZ/, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0824QH52X/, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBQYGK6/

Will also probably use this battery enclosure as it has a battery monitor and 2x 12V sockets built in, although I will bypass the 60 circuit breaker and just wire direct to the battery using the 150A terminal fuse: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PTHKMG/

See below for the schematic I put together.

This is pretty amazing and hats off to you for putting this together. Seems most understand what your doing with me being the exception.

Most of it makes sense, but what is the Alt/Ignit fuse 50? 75A fuse? Where is the small ESS battery in this or was it removed?

 

[twisty]

connected to the battery negative post.

SO it's the plug with Red and orange wires. Interesting that it would not throw an alarm if unplugged.

 

[LUV2JEEP]

If you're a Ridgid tool addict like me you could go this route.......

 

[Overland Productions]

See below for the schematic I put together.

Which house battery setup are you going to install? What will you run with the 1500w inverter? How will you isolate the 12 circ fuse block when using the inverter?

 

[Overland Productions]

This is pretty amazing and hats off to you for putting this together. Seems most understand what your doing with me being the exception.

Most of it makes sense, but what is the Alt/Ignit fuse 50? 75A fuse? Where is the small ESS battery in this or was it removed?

DC/DC chargers use a sense wire to know when the engine is off or on. This is needed due to smart alternators on most modern vehicles. The wire is tapped into the ignition fuse in the engine compartment. I used space F52 with a 20amp fuse on my system. This allows the dc/dc charger to maintain a constant charge while the smart alternator fluctuates high and low while driving.

The 75A fuse protects the battery, wire, and device from surges. They are installed as close the the battery terminal as possible. The charger he chose is rated for 50amp so the next fuse up is usually 75A.

The starter battery and smaller aux battery are still in place as his system is an auxiliary set up in the back of his vehicle. The smaller aux battery is only in play with the 3.6 as the 2.0 Turbo motors do not have an aux battery underneath. I believe he has a Gladiator in which case it will be the 3.6 with ESS and aux battery underneath.

 

[moodywizard]

SO it's the plug with Red and orange wires. Interesting that it would not throw an alarm if unplugged.

No issues to report, been about a year running it this way.

 

[twisty]

Which house battery setup are you going to install? What will you run with the 1500w inverter? How will you isolate the 12 circ fuse block when using the inverter?

Not sure yet, trying to learn quickly since I need this done soon.

My thought was to put in an AGM or Li battery in the back somewhere near my fridge and second ARB. Keep the stock battery but would love to get rid of that stupid little battery.

I have no plans thus far to install an inverter. I think the stock one would work for what I need right now, but who knows about the future needs?

 

[ebelp]

The smaller aux battery is only in play with the 3.6 as the 2.0 Turbo motors do not have an aux battery underneath. I believe he has a Gladiator in which case it will be the 3.6 with ESS and aux battery underneath.

Geez I didn't even know this. Why would the 2.0T not need the auxiliary ESS battery?

 

[moodywizard]

Geez I didn't even know this. Why would the 2.0T not need the auxiliary ESS battery?

It was a misleading statement, for the 2.0 the ESS batteries are the hybrid batteries which are in the back under the jeep...

 

[oceanblue2019]

It was a misleading statement, for the 2.0 the ESS batteries are the hybrid batteries which are in the back under the jeep...

Correct, 48V lithium pack is used on the 2.0 with eTorque/BSG.

I am actually testing using the 48V lithium pack to power my fridge and compressor via a 48V to 24V DC convertor. The big benefit here is no extra weight for another battery and higher efficiency due to the higher voltages.

The other benefit is these systems are isolated already and intelligent charging of the 48V system at the higher voltage also built into the BSG.

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