Overheating issues 2023 JL

[Byrds8]

Its not just Jeep running engines hot, GM does it also. I had a 2022 Silverado with the 5.3L and it would see 230ish before the fan kicked on and it cooled down just like the Wrangler. This was running down the interstate. I have yet to see mine go in limp mode running around in the FL summer though. To include 75+ down the interstate.

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[AVGeek99]

This is super useful for me! Thank you! My 2020 JLUR blew a radiator in 2022 doing high way speeds up a steep mountain pass in the desert while blasting the A.C (it was so hot we were dying!). I had a very heavy Yeti cooler and camping gear in with me. I was on 35’s with a 2.5 lift in a 3.6. What shocked me most is my temp gauge never moved! I could smell the coolant and became concerned but my gauge was green until it just suddenly wasn’t! By Then I was blowing smoke and spewing rad fluid on a desert mountain with my 4 year old without cell service! I didn’t even hear the fan come on! I’m not convinced it did! It was covered under warranty but ever since when I’m wheeling hard or idling for a while I can start to smell that smell an engine makes when it’s getting hot and I don’t always hear the fan come on. Chrysler told me they checked the fan and thermostat and it was fine. People tell me it’s all in my head and it’s my fault for running the AC climbing a steep mountain while hauling camping gear ?‍. But we are talking about a brand new vehicle with very little miles. So what’s really happening? To be honest I don’t trust that temp gauge or the fan and I’ve been on a journey to find a way of assisting in keeping the rad cool.

Though it may be "functioning correctly" or "functioning as designed" there is a problem with the primary temp guage in the instrument cluster. It's just below half "normal" reading is misleading and covers a very wide temp range. By the time it starts going up beyond that "normal" reading it is too late to recover on it's own. The only way to bring the temp down is to shut it down.

Alternatively you could turn the heat on full blast which in the right conditions can help reduce coolant temp. But driving through a hot deseert it may not have any affect, and probably not a great option for the passengers in that situation.

 

[Nick W.]

Just for reference - I picked up my '24 Willy MT from Granger yesterday and drove 350+ miles home. 4.11 gearing, coolant temp never went over 195 degrees. Ambient air temp around 35 degrees and cruised 70-80 mph.

 

[Willys41]

Just for reference - I picked up my '24 Willy MT from Granger yesterday and drove 350+ miles home. 4.11 gearing, coolant temp never went over 195 degrees. Ambient air temp around 35 degrees and cruised 70-80 mph.

It will hit 231 or higher. Just give it more time.
If you where running your heater that will keep temps down.
If it is like the 2023 and earlier jeeps the rad. fan comes on at 15% fan speed at 221 and 75% fan speed at 231 degrees.

 

[mwilk012]

It will hit 231 or higher. Just give it more time.
If you where running your heater that will keep temps down.
If it is like the 2023 and earlier jeeps the rad. fan comes on at 15% fan speed at 221 and 75% fan speed at 231 degrees.

Yea, it will go higher once you get your radiator nice and packed full of mud and ambient temp increases to about 110.

 

[Capricorn]

So I have a 2023 JL unlimited on 37’s running 513 gears. So the temp gauge on the gauge cluster never moves no matter what, but the off road gauges on the radio show my temp running 220-235 at times, and same with the oil temp. It’s out of warranty, but Reguardless I feel like replacing the radiator with an upgraded 4 core radiator and possible an oil cooler. Has anyone else had these kind of issues and what are some fixes?

On Gladiators that have Tow Package, it is equipped with 850W heavy duty fan and 240A alternator. The regular duty fan is 600W. You might consider upgrading the fan, I think the JL would be compatible with the 800W fan if yours has a 240A alternator.

Check the fitment though.

https://store.mopar.com/oem-parts/mopar-radiator-cooling-fan-module-68272755ad

 

[Willys41]

On Gladiators that have Tow Package, it is equipped with 850W heavy duty fan and 240A alternator. The regular duty fan is 600W. You might consider upgrading the fan, I think the JL would be compatible with the 800W fan if yours has a 240A alternator.

Check the fitment though.

https://store.mopar.com/oem-parts/mopar-radiator-cooling-fan-module-68272755ad

They also have a 940 watt fan witch I have on my 2020 Willys put it WILL NOT keep your temperature from rising to 231 degrees or higher.
The thermostat starts to open at 190 and is fully open at about 212 degrees.
Like I said the fan comes on at 15% fan speed at 221 and 75% fan speed at 231 degrees.
On my Willys I installed the RPM Extreme JL fan controller and have only seen a max temp of 212.
On my Rubicon I did install the 850 watt fan and 240 amp alternator and saw NO reduction in temps. I will be installing the RPM Extreme JL fan controller on my Rubicon soon.

 

[UncleJimmy]

For all that believe Jeep's engineers are infallible.

Here you go. 33,000 miles, never raced or wrecked. Oil changed well before the OLM and with oil much better than specified by the engineers, driven mostly conservatively by a little old man.

Who puts an oil port adjacent to a coolant port with a siamese seal and no separation? FCA engineering at it's finest.

That photo is pretty convincing. The difference in pressure, no support on the lip of the o-ring where they meet.

This is why I am doing all I can do to keep the OC and those seals in good shape, using good oil with additives to protect the seals, and I keep the oil temp in the HUD and started running cooldown mode on the tazer anytime the oil temp hits 199 F. If I am coming up to large grade on the highway, loaded down with extra weight, I will "pre-cool" the engine for about 8 mins before the climb and the last time I didn't event break 200 F.

It seems like if coolant is getting into the oil then it's even more important to control heat, and improve the viscosity the engine sees if it's being diluted/contaminated. Also, if the oil is contaminated, even more important to drain every last drop of old oil out. I use ramps and end up draining 5.5 qts for 3l.

 

[UncleJimmy]

Also makes a case for less spirited driving to keep the second stage of the oil pump from kicking in.

I like to downshift so may quit doing that, as well let up on the throttle a little....

But on the other hand.... thinking as I am typing this, if the pressure is higher on the oil side, I would think that would prevent the coolant from coming in. If those pressures were reversed then there might be more cause for concern.

@roaniecowpony the more I think on this, how would coolant seep into the oil side if the pressure is 2 to 5 times higher on the oil side? If anything, there seems there would be more of a case for oil getting into the coolant side and not vice versa??

 

[roaniecowpony]

Also makes a case for less spirited driving to keep the second stage of the oil pump from kicking in.

I like to downshift so may quit doing that, as well let up on the throttle a little....

But on the other hand.... thinking as I am typing this, if the pressure is higher on the oil side, I would think that would prevent the coolant from coming in. If those pressures were reversed then there might be more cause for concern.

@roaniecowpony the more I think on this, how would coolant seep into the oil side if the pressure is 2 to 5 times higher on the oil side? If anything, there seems there would be more of a case for oil getting into the coolant side and not vice versa??

When the engine is running, the oil pressure is clearly higher than the coolant system pressure. That's why my seals are pushed from the oil port toward the coolant port. Almost immediately upon shutdown, the oil pressure goes to zero. But the coolant pressure remains at operating pressure until the system begins to cool and the system contents contract. During that post shutdown period, but before coolant pressure is zero, it will seep through the compromised seal. That's why I found oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil.

 

[UncleJimmy]

When the engine is running, the oil pressure is clearly higher than the coolant system pressure. That's why my seals are pushed from the oil port toward the coolant port. Almost immediately upon shutdown, the oil pressure goes to zero. But the coolant pressure remains at operating pressure until the system begins to cool and the system contents contract. During that post shutdown period, but before coolant pressure is zero, it will seep through the compromised seal. That's why I found oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil.

O.K. How did you discover this? Did you notice oil in the coolant first? Or UOA?

You alluded to retooling the factory OC, is Stelantis changing the design?

EDIT: just saw your post

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...oil-filter-housing.121070/page-2#post-2633192

Did you swap yours out preventatively, or have a problem first?

 

[roaniecowpony]

UOA showed a ton of coolant constituent (potassium).

They changed the design sometime recently. Maybe the last year or so. I don't have a timeline. But they went from the single siamese figure 8 seal to the separated oval seals, where they added the web between them.

 

[roaniecowpony]

My recommendation is to change your oil filter adapter/cooler and do a UOA at every OCI.

 

[roaniecowpony]

They also have a 940 watt fan witch I have on my 2020 Willys put it WILL NOT keep your temperature from rising to 231 degrees or higher.
The thermostat starts to open at 190 and is fully open at about 212 degrees.
Like I said the fan comes on at 15% fan speed at 221 and 75% fan speed at 231 degrees.
On my Willys I installed the RPM Extreme JL fan controller and have only seen a max temp of 212.
On my Rubicon I did install the 850 watt fan and 240 amp alternator and saw NO reduction in temps. I will be installing the RPM Extreme JL fan controller on my Rubicon soon.

My fan controller has been sitting on the table for a couple days. Been busy with the other things, but that has settled down after getting it all back together.

I'm wondering if you have a reference to an install video or some pix of your installation? Tips?

 

[Jeep Wick]

On Gladiators that have Tow Package, it is equipped with 850W heavy duty fan and 240A alternator. The regular duty fan is 600W. You might consider upgrading the fan, I think the JL would be compatible with the 800W fan if yours has a 240A alternator.

Check the fitment though.

https://store.mopar.com/oem-parts/mopar-radiator-cooling-fan-module-68272755ad

Nice find. There are aftermarket versions of this fan for $200-250 if you shop around.

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