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Old timer advice

JeepinJason33

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Started wheeling Jeeps in 1978 on a farm Willy's, had 30 or so Jeeps of all models, should be enough to consider myself an old timer.

Main advice would be do your own research, there are thousands of threads on this forum that you can look through. Have a specific question? Type some keywords into the search engine.

More importantly, don't buy this for the on road comfort and durability. Buy it because you plan on off-roading it a bit. Otherwise, the lack of creature comforts, power, MPG, durability, and everything else associated with a Jeep will disappoint you. If you do buy one, don't come on here and bitch about the quality and lack of features compard to your Elantra. It is a JEEP Wrangler, it will take more maintanence than your Elantra. If you start lifting it, parts will wear out faster. If you slap cheap parts on it, you will get what you pay for, etc.

Again, don't buy a Jeep Wrangler because you like the way they look. Adding MOD's will become a bad habit that will never end and will cost money that you will NEVER get back when you resell it.
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OldGuyNewJeep

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For those that have had their jeeps for a while and have been a part of the forum community for a long time, what advice would you give to those looking to order their first Jeep within the next year or two?

What's something you would have done differently in your Jeep journey?

Obviously how we order our wranglers from the factory and how we MOD it depends on our end goals which are individual and differ from others, but still, what's the most important thing you have learned that would benefit new comers?
We need more info. What are you considering?

Personally, I wanted as close as I could get to the Jeeps that were popular when I was young. That translated to a two door, manual, 3.6L with premium soft top. I went with a Rubicon and have zero regrets. (I do wish that regearing was an option back in 2018.)

The dual mass clutch is a piece of junk. If you go for a manual, budget extra to put in an ACT clutch. Still comes out cheaper than an automatic.

If you get a Rubicon, pot the axle sensors ASAP or they will fail eventually.

Invest in quality 20a battery charger/maintainer. Or a 10a Noco-10 at the bare minimum. These things have parasitic draw.

Plan to take the AUX battery out of the picture if you go for a simple 3.6 build.
 
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agpr2016

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We need more info. What are you considering?

Personally, I wanted as close as I could get to the Jeeps that were popular when I was young. That translated to a two door, manual, 3.6L with premium soft top. I went with a Rubicon and have zero regrets. (I do wish that regearing was an option back in 2018.)

The dual mass clutch is a piece of junk. If you go for a manual, budget extra to put in an ACT clutch. Still comes out cheaper than an automatic.

If you get a Rubicon, pot the axle sensors ASAP or they will fail eventually.

Invest in quality 20a battery charger/maintainer. Or a 10a Noco-10 at the bare minimum. These things have parasitic draw.

Plan to take the AUX battery out of the picture if you go for a simple 3.6 build.
I'm considering a two door 3.6L manual soft top. Will be a daily driver and very moderate off road use. Why do I want it? Well Jeeps are cool, but where I live in the tropics, nothing is flat, roads are terrible, flash floods here and there, muddy routes and jungles. Kind of need a 4 by 4. There are no rocks where I live but there are some hard-core mud routes.

In all honesty a Sport would suffice, the 3.45 gearing however has me worried based off the comments from the other forum members. I leaning towards Willys because it's the best bang for buck, 4.10 gearing, 33 inch tires, has a rear locker I probably don't need but nice to have just in case.

The only mods I would add are front and rear steel Bumpers for safety, people drive crazy where I live. Leather tan seats too but I'm still thinking about that since I want to drive it top off most of the time, I appreciate it will be easier to clean and I do go to the beach and river a lot...lots of mud but I wonder if the seats will be too hot. I'd probably get aftermarket rock sliders with drop steps. If I got the sport I might regear and I'd swap out the halogens for aftermarket LEDs.

From all the problems the batteries cause I guess I'd have to buy and install good AGM battery aftermarket.

Thanks for the advice on the clutch!

I'm looking to get a 2025 model.
 

Philly_

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HALF DOORS

By far my biggest regret was not buying these factory. Got lucky to pick up a brand new set for a good price and was up for a road trip. Still had to have them painted, though. If you decide you don't really want them or won't use them, you can unload them to a forum member for the cost of the option (if not more) in a heartbeat.

Also, if you're not sure what you're going to do with it, I would get the most capability you can reasonably afford. Beefier axles and lockers are a lot more convenient (and potentially more cost effective) from the factory AND it preserves your warranty. If you don't know that you want the Rubicon, the new Willys with front/rear Dana 44's, and a rear locker is a killer value option, and I may have considered this route had it been available.

And if you're going manual, 4.88's! Have yet to hear anyone regret the lower factory gearing.
 

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OldGuyNewJeep

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I'm considering a two door 3.6L manual soft top. Will be a daily driver and very moderate off road use. Why do I want it? Well Jeeps are cool, but where I live in the tropics, nothing is flat, roads are terrible, flash floods here and there, muddy routes and jungles. Kind of need a 4 by 4. There are no rocks where I live but there are some hard-core mud routes.

In all honesty a Sport would suffice, the 3.45 gearing however has me worried based off the comments from the other forum members. I leaning towards Willys because it's the best bang for buck, 4.10 gearing, 33 inch tires, has a rear locker I probably don't need but nice to have just in case.

The only mods I would add are front and rear steel Bumpers for safety, people drive crazy where I live. Leather tan seats too but I'm still thinking about that since I want to drive it top off most of the time, I appreciate it will be easier to clean and I do go to the beach and river a lot...lots of mud but I wonder if the seats will be too hot. I'd probably get aftermarket rock sliders with drop steps. If I got the sport I might regear and I'd swap out the halogens for aftermarket LEDs.

From all the problems the batteries cause I guess I'd have to buy and install good AGM battery aftermarket.

Thanks for the advice on the clutch!

I'm looking to get a 2025 model.
A man after my own heart. 10000% get at least 4.10 gearing. The manual is awful with 3.45.
 

OldGuyNewJeep

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So now that we know you’re heading toward a manual and factory lockers, these will be useful for you:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...testing-by-advanced-clutch-technology.111416/

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/act-jp6-hdss-clutch-kit-install-review.114460/

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...-manual-jeep-wranglers-and-gladiators.109588/

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/locker-position-sensor-potting-dana-44.59581/

Assuming you can still get a 3.6 without eTorque (I sure hope so):

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/jumperless-aux-battery-bypass.95945/

Also assuming you don’t want to use ESS, especially if you take the AUX out of the picture per above, you will want:

https://www.smartstopstart.com/ (Steve is on the forum and gives us a discount)

If you will have any desire for a programmer, you’ll want:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JFRFJG6

https://ecri.app/products/ecri-security-module-bypass-2018-jeep-ram

https://jeepsnapcaps.com/products/c...azer-and-security-gateway-bypass-module-mount

https://www.zautomotive.com/product/z_sgw_ext/

https://jscan.net/

Lastly, here is the note I keep on my iPhone to help me remember important maintenance things:

Engine Oil
5q 0w20

Transmission & T-Case
ATF+4 - 5qts total

Diff
75w140 - 3qts
"Flex Fill" bags are the way to go:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KB5LTJM/

Oil Filter
MOPAR MO-349 68191349AB/AC
Mobil 1: M1C-456A



Air Filter
MOPAR 68257030AA
WIX WP10371
Fram CF12450

Cabin Filter
MOPAR 68301863AA

Sockets
22mm lugs
13mm drain plug
24mm oil filter cap (torque to 18lbs - too tight and it'll crack)
8mm air filter
Torque diff drains to 25lbs

UConnect
Pull F97 to reset
Hold driver's side temperature up, temperature down and front defrost buttons simultaneously to enter dealer mode (to see version numbers)

Hold the power and tune buttons together for about 15 seconds and release, then hit the power button again to reboot the system. (Or hold volume and tune?)

JEEP FACTORY DIRECT LINE# 877-426-5337

TSBs
TSB 18-092-19 Needed so Jeep will crank on second try if AUX is dead. Don't say ESS because that TSB doesn't mention it. Say the A/C fan is too loud.

ESS AUX Battery
Pull fuse F42 (10a) and AUX battery negative cable to remove AUX from operation.


Main Battery
Northstar 48 or Odyssey 94R (94R only confirmed to fit Rubicon with tow package)

Tires
BFG KO2 (stock - 285/70-17)
BFG KO2 315/70r17 KO2 (wider)

Fuse Array
68368854AA - 100 Amp (tow package)

Locker Sensors
68544629AA Sensor Kit, Axle

Fix seat if it won't recline
68485522AA Insert-Seat Position Return
68485519AA Insert-Seat Position Return

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ld-and-lock-into-position-june-20-2019.34614/

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ld-and-lock-into-position-june-20-2019.34614/

Jeep Wrangler JL Gladiator Factory OEM Stainless Lug Nuts (Set Of 5) 6509422AA

Jeep Wrangler JL Old timer advice IMG_1357


Jeep Wrangler JL Old timer advice IMG_1358


Jeep Wrangler JL Old timer advice IMG_1360


Jeep Wrangler JL Old timer advice IMG_1361


Jeep Wrangler JL Old timer advice IMG_2581
 

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OldGuyNewJeep

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Oh, and get the factory tow package. Well worth it.
 

The Last Cowboy

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azjl#3

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Two-door, manual trans, 4.88 gearing and 3.6L is the answer. I don't remember the question, but that's the answer.
got to agree here, totally, except the manual part, thats so 1960's.
 

JLfromCA

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You’re buying a straight axle vehicle!. It’s in a class by itself. It does not ride or handle like an IFS SUV. If you don’t need the straight axle, don’t buy it and then complain about the ride. Conversely, don’t buy an IFS and go off-road and then complain when it breaks.
. buy what you need
 

Camaroboi13

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Also, go back and re-read the thread you started last summer.
Got him! ?

My only advice would be don’t buy the base model in hopes of building it up to be something else. By the time you do lift, led lights, upgrades to audio equipment, power doors, etc. you’ll be into it way more than you would’ve if you’d just bought the next model up.

Also, don’t listen to a single person on here about gearing until you’ve driven one yourself.
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