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New battery nightmare

2nd 392

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After installing a new battery I got locked out of the main screen. Security code required. I went to Jeep and it has to be pulled out to get the serial number from the back to get the code. About $110. They said it’s the first time they have seen it happen. Anyone else have this happen ? 🤨
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After installing a new battery I got locked out of the main screen. Security code required. I went to Jeep and it has to be pulled out to get the serial number from the back to get the code. About $110. They said it’s the first time they have seen it happen. Anyone else have this happen ? 🤨
On our Acura and Infiniti yes but they provide you the radio code upon purchase. On the Jeep I have replaced the battery once and fully disconnected it for longer than 20 minutes on several occasions without needing a code.
 

azjl#3

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pro tip, changing a battery, use some jumper wires off a 9v battery hooked to car, off of course, saves data. With the two battery system, easy to use the old motorcycle battery to keep car energized while changing batteries. This trick from days of having to figure how to reset flashing clock.
 
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2nd 392

2nd 392

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pro tip, changing a battery, use some jumper wires off a 9v battery hooked to car, off of course, saves data. With the two battery system, easy to use the old motorcycle battery to keep car energized while changing batteries. This trick from days of having to figure how to reset flashing clock.
From the 9V to the battery cables ? I have 1 battery.
 

azjl#3

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From the 9V to the battery cables ? I have 1 battery.
Yes, to the cables using alligator clips. If you use a real battery, like the aux, i put an inline 15a fuse holder inline in case i cross a wire.
 

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I have a connector to go from my bigger jump pack to the cig lighter port but have never used it. I’ve removed the radio twice to run power to the upper dash area and I think it’s only 6 screws total holding the head unit in if I’m remembering right.
 
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2nd 392

2nd 392

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Yes, to the cables using alligator clips. If you use a real battery, like the aux, i put an inline 15a fuse holder inline in case i cross a wire.
Simple enough, I have a couple 9V caps with wires having to fix one on the sprinkler backup and had to buy a 3/5 pack- assuming I could find them 🙄
 
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2nd 392

2nd 392

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I have a connector to go from my bigger jump pack to the cig lighter port but have never used it. I’ve removed the radio twice to run power to the upper dash area and I think it’s only 6 screws total holding the head unit in if I’m remembering right.
How could the lighter plug work when it isn’t hot in “off” ?
 

Terrymo

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How could the lighter plug work when it isn’t hot in “off” ?
Good question. I bought it the big Jump pack when I had full sized trucks and never thought about it. I am worried about plugging into the Jeep and messing something up. Probably ignorance
 
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I always plug in a battery tender or powerpack whenever changing the battery. There are too many downsides of changing the battery cold.

1 - Your emissions status gets reset. I once was due for an emissions test and had to wait days for it to reset.

2 - There are all sorts of things (like the OP's radio) that don't like the voltage transients and spikes when you disconnect/reconnect a battery with no other power.

3 - Loss of voltage is a loggable event on many cars like BMWs. Sometimes it triggers dealers to pull a deep scan at next service before they can work on the car. (factory requirement). These deeps scans pick up any coding (e.g. Tazer, Bimmercode, etc) you have done and can be warranty flags.

I assume everyone by now has a power pack on their vehicles - just hook it up and change the battery.
 

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pro tip, changing a battery, use some jumper wires off a 9v battery hooked to car, off of course, saves data. With the two battery system, easy to use the old motorcycle battery to keep car energized while changing batteries. This trick from days of having to figure how to reset flashing clock.
This is an excellent tip I think that, as a matter of color commentary is both not needed, and in some cases won't help when replacing batteries on dual AGM battery equipped JL Wranglers (of which I think the OP's 392 is not.) I'll explain.

If you replace the Aux battery through the fender flare your vehicle can still be energized by the main battery until it is replaced (presumably immediately thereafter) while the new Aux provides electrical current.

Conversely, if you replace the Aux battery by going at it from above, disconnecting the Power Distribution Center (PDC) to do so, it's been my experience that power to the vehicle is disrupted regardless of the state of and connection of either or both battery. :)
 

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I used my pulled aux battery with jumper cables from an old gell cell battery. They were too good to toss with the $50 unit. Now it comes in handy for lawn tractor mowers and needs to keep ecu and aux operating when battery needs to be disconnected.
 

azjl#3

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This is an excellent tip I think that, as a matter of color commentary is both not needed, and in some cases won't help when replacing batteries on dual AGM battery equipped JL Wranglers (of which I think the OP's 392 is not.) I'll explain.

If you replace the Aux battery through the fender flare your vehicle can still be energized by the main battery until it is replaced (presumably immediately thereafter) while the new Aux provides electrical current.

Conversely, if you replace the Aux battery by going at it from above, disconnecting the Power Distribution Center (PDC) to do so, it's been my experience that power to the vehicle is disrupted regardless of the state of and connection of either or both battery. :)
true, my comment was for the guy, me, pulling both at once.
 

alphawolff

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After installing a new battery I got locked out of the main screen. Security code required. I went to Jeep and it has to be pulled out to get the serial number from the back to get the code. About $110. They said it’s the first time they have seen it happen. Anyone else have this happen ? 🤨
Very, very odd. The only time this happens is if the VIN in the PCM does not match the VIN in the radio. I have no idea how this could happen from a simple battery replacement.

Disconnecting the radio (or the battery) can sometimes cause the radio to lose its configuration, but I've never seen a VIN mismatch like this before. I'd perform a radio reset with wi-tech and verify the VIN matches in both modules before yoinking the radio. The scan tool should also be able to display the serial # required to get the security code without pulling the dash if it comes to it.
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