Dead battery in new JLURD

[SwissSteph]

Thank you Rhinebeck01 for your information, I made this manipulation following your message

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[SwissSteph]

Following my tests, the fact of having removed the Tazer did not change anything, my battery is still drained!?

On this video towards the end he talks about a third method, I have only this solution left ... but I don't have the specific measuring device, I'm looking around if someone has one ....

Now I'm lost and worried to see my second main battery (so new) drained ...

 

[JLnike]

I have yet to unmarry my tazer but now you have me worried I will never be able to solve this if it didn’t solve the problem for you.

 

[SwissSteph]

I was hoping the problem was the tazer, but frankly I didn't think it was possible and the results of my tests show that without the tazer, it's exactly the same problem.

I just ordered on Amazon a "multimeter clamp" like in the video ... I hope with this device to find the culprit. The additional problem is that with a simple multimeter (I have one) it is possible to measure the "normal" fuses so with the two small contacts on it ... but how to do with the others (and there are many) which are bigger and have NO contact on it so impossible to take a measurement!? ... I do not know what else to do. I will wait for the delivery of the new multimeter "with clamp" and see if I can make some measurements and tests like in the video.

The problem, if I understand correctly, that removing one by one the fuses (I'm talking about the "big" ones without contacts) is that with the complexity of the electronics by remeasuring it is not sure to have then a measurement just to go to the next one and also to remove it to find the circuit that causes the problem. I'm not an electronic engineer, so I have no skills in this field and I do my best

 

[JLnike]

I still think it is the tazer that is leaving on some of the cars computers and systems and not going to sleep. I think the problem is that both of us updated the firmware of the tazer without the unmarry sequence first and now the original data taken from the car and stored in the tazer is no longer there to put back upon unmarry sequence. Basically we infected the car with bad taser firmware like a virus and have no setback point.
The difference with my car and yours however is my battery drain only occurs overnight and is intermittent, meaning some random days it’s drained to 0 and sometimes it’s fine for more than a month at a time.

 

[TX_Ovrlnd]

I still think it is the tazer that is leaving on some of the cars computers and systems and not going to sleep. I think the problem is that both of us updated the firmware of the tazer without the unmarry sequence first and now the original data taken from the car and stored in the tazer is no longer there to put back upon unmarry sequence. Basically we infected the car with bad taser firmware like a virus and have no setback point.
The difference with my car and yours however is my battery drain only occurs overnight and is intermittent, meaning some random days it’s drained to 0 and sometimes it’s fine for more than a month at a time.

You do not have to unmarry the Tazer to update it (note the "clear pin before upgrading" in the most recent firmware notes). I recently pulled, updated, and plugged my Tazer back in. It does not install anything on the Wrangler, it's only flipping software switches like 1's and 0's. The firmware increases/adds-to the functionality of the Tazer device and how it manipulates the Wrangler computer. There was a firmware version that caused a battery drain if you hit the unlock button 4 times.

 

[SwissSteph]

Small return of my tests.

With the ammeter connected on the "+" of the main battery, I have about 0.09 A - 0.12 A of leakage. Sometimes when I turn on the engine and let it run for 1 minute, then turn it off I get a leakage of 0.00 A.

I left the ammeter on the "+" of the main battery, disconnected the connectors of the "+" and the "-" of the main battery and also the two "-" connected on the right wing ... and I STILL have a leakage measurement, the ammeter does not show me 0.00 A!?

I don't understand anything anymore. I don't know what to do anymore despite the N1+N2 jumper with a 40A fuse + the disconnection of the "-" of the AUX battery, + the two connectors of the main battery + the two grounds (-) I still have a leak ... what to do ? remove completely the AUX battery ? ... I had read an article here (but I can't find it) would it be the only solution ?

In any case the Tazer is not at all at fault, since it was removed during this test

If yes, could someone tell me if the application of this tuto (I must absolutely find this article) would be easily feasible? and applicable on my 2.2 Diesel?

Help me!

 

[JLnike]

Other than the taxer what aftermarket items have you installed?

 

[SwissSteph]

an ARB compressor (which I disconnected) so it is not the problem.

two connectors (with LEDs and which indicates me the deplorable state of charge of my battery) which makes it possible to connect quickly an external battery charger.

two LEDs for the lighting of the engine hood .... uh with a switch, so I strongly doubt that it is the culprit.

an LED light on the back door of my Jeep

and very recently, after all these problems of discharges, an "anti weasel" which was much too close to my Jeep

In any case, it's impossible that LEDs turned off can discharge a battery so strongly and quickly.

One clue I have is the "comfort modules" (I don't know if the English translation is good), unfortunately I don't know where they are and I have to look here if there is a topic that explains where to find them (usually in the driver/passenger compartment)

 

[SwissSteph]

My last conclusions

After having searched and found a "consumption" (with my new multimeter connected on the "+" of my main battery) while everything was off, and this with the hood open and the two contactors (located on the front left) maintained in closed position with a weight.

I finally removed one by one each fuse, reconnected my ARB compressor to the battery, put back the Tazer and removed the "N1+N2 with its fuse" jumper to make the new modification, simpler, which is to remove directly a fuse in the fuse box, which should do the same thing.

Now it seems that my (main) battery doesn't discharge as fast as before. I just have to test and see if ...

 

[SwissSteph]

... it still discharges ... but a little bit slower, so I'm still not happy. It's true that if I drove my Jeep every day I wouldn't be able to see this problem, but using it about every two weeks, the problem is there

 

[Ratbert]

... it still discharges ... but a little bit slower, so I'm still not happy. It's true that if I drove my Jeep every day I wouldn't be able to see this problem, but using it about every two weeks, the problem is there

No way to track it down?

 

[nkyjeep]

... it still discharges ... but a little bit slower, so I'm still not happy. It's true that if I drove my Jeep every day, I wouldn't be able to see this problem, but using it about every two weeks, the problem is there?

I got the same issue as you, but my jeep is 2021 fully loaded options and 3.6 e-torque engine. I'm still thinking that the 48-volt battery isnt recharging the crank battery/main in the engine bay. and after 4 days dead battery, but still a power draw from somewhere. Plus my jeep is a covid jeep build!!!

 

[SwissSteph]

I've said it here before, but since the legendary Jeep is owned by FCA, it has lost all its legend. If FCA knew how to make good things, we would know about it in Europe ......

I miss my Wrangler YJ

 

[GearWhore]

Getting similar issues in my 2021 JLURD. Only started after it was disassembled for 2+ months by the dealer service. I'm guessing I have some corroded connections or something not assembled correctly. Different dealer replaced both batteries a few weeks ago and the issues persist.

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