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Mounting ARB Air Compressor

shadowmoto17

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D
I just put a riv-nut in that location so no bottom access needed.
did you use the original fasteners that came with the mount or bought fasteners that worked with the riv-nuts? I really like what I call nut-certs but I think I’d have to get bolts to work with them.
 

tonygiotta

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did you use the original fasteners that came with the mount or bought fasteners that worked with the riv-nuts? I really like what I call nut-certs but I think I’d have to get bolts to work with them.
Depends on whether or not you have riv-nuts/Nutserts (and the install tool) that match the metric threading of the bolts supplied by ARB. I went this route also, and installed them for both the holes on the front leg of the ARB mounting bracket. Didn't have any interference issues (under the floorboard) with the inboard hole, but it sure was a bear getting a wrench on that inboard bolt head with my manifold installed...
 

shadowmoto17

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Depends on whether or not you have riv-nuts/nut-certs (and the install tool) that match the metric threading of the bolts supplied by ARB. I went this route also, and installed them for both the holes on the front leg of the ARB mounting bracket. Didn't have any interference issues (under the floorboard) with the inboard hole, but it sure was a bear getting a wrench on that inboard bolt head with my manifold installed...
I have the Astro Pneumatic nut-cert tool that came with nut certs varying in size. I may go to our hardware store and compare what they have that’s similar to fasteners that came with the bracket but I don’t mind climbing under the Jeep also. Maybe tomorrow night I’ll get further if not done with the install if UPS does come through with overnighting the parts.
 

oceanblue2019

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did you use the original fasteners that came with the mount or bought fasteners that worked with the riv-nuts? I really like what I call nut-certs but I think I’d have to get bolts to work with them.
I had some 1/4-20 nut-certs and bolts so I used those. The factory hardware was metric and I only had limited nut-certs in metric so used what I had.

Worked out well. I use nut-certs for most places where nut access is a PITA.
 

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shadowmoto17

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I installed my ARB dual compressor today using ARB’s new underseat mount. It’s much further under the seat than the other underseat product I’ve seen.

Nice product, terrible instructions!

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I know you posted this a year ago and maybe shared how your wiring looks but I’m curious since I’m doing the same mounting location and like you wiring is something I’m learning.
The only change I did from reading the more recent posts to the thread was that I used a nutsert for the hole you have to drill. Since my nutsert tool came with different size nutserts I found one that works with the bolt they supply you with, but now I’m at the headache part of trying to figure out a way to drape the wiring and get my seat back in.
 

oceanblue2019

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I know you posted this a year ago and maybe shared how your wiring looks but I’m curious since I’m doing the same mounting location and like you wiring is something I’m learning.
The only change I did from reading the more recent posts to the thread was that I used a nutsert for the hole you have to drill. Since my nutsert tool came with different size nutserts I found one that works with the bolt they supply you with, but now I’m at the headache part of trying to figure out a way to drape the wiring and get my seat back in.
The right way is to use the passenger side nipple grommet they left for running wire though. The challenge here is it means removing the battery and the fuse module to get to it. But it is the cleanest and neatest way to do it.

The other way is down and along frame and up through the floor grommet. The issue here is you have wiring under the Jeep which I really dislike especially if you use the Jeep to do Jeep things. Eventually that wiring will get snagged or submerged, etc, etc.
 

shadowmoto17

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The right way is to use the passenger side nipple grommet they left for running wire though. The challenge here is it means removing the battery and the fuse module to get to it. But it is the cleanest and neatest way to do it.

The other way is down and along frame and up through the floor grommet. The issue here is you have wiring under the Jeep which I really dislike especially if you use the Jeep to do Jeep things. Eventually that wiring will get snagged or submerged, etc, etc.
I was planning on going underneath the Jeep and running it back up into the engine bay since it didn’t seem there would be too many loose ends, but now I’m asking around for help with the electrical since I want to preserve my wiring harness for getting air-lockers in the near future. I have the manifold already so it would just be the axle swap basically.
 

oceanblue2019

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I was planning on going underneath the Jeep and running it back up into the engine bay since it didn’t seem there would be too many loose ends, but now I’m asking around for help with the electrical since I want to preserve my wiring harness for getting air-lockers in the near future. I have the manifold already so it would just be the axle swap basically.
Here are some instructions in this document that tells you how; but ignore the drilling hole option - look on here to find the nipple method.

IJKP-24 Installation Instructions

Here is the write-up on the nipple:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...wiring-through-jl-firewall.48434/post-1072029
 

Krazyk86cu

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Well, it took an international treaty, human sacrifice and an act of God, but I managed to get my ARB twin supply harness through the passenger side grommet and under the seat.

I’m honestly embarrassed to explain how long this took, but I was determined to make it through the grommet nipple on the top rather than poking through the bottom of the harness.

I stuck my entire body into the wheel well after pulling it aside and managed to clip the end of the nipple off with wire cutters. My arm will never be the same. After that, I removed the glove box and while laying down on my back with my head and a headlamp looking up, used my right hand through the glove box opening to guide a long screwdriver with silicone grease through the upper hole in the grommet and pierced through the inner piece and out into the engine bay.

I then taped a 14 gauge wire (I suggest 10 or 12 gauge or at least double up the 14 as I had my wire snap multiple times while yanking) to the end of the screw driver and poked it through from the inside using the previous method to the outside. I laid back under the car and pulled the wire down with some needle nose pliers.

I disassembled the 5 pin connector on the supply harness and taped it all together. You will need to stagger the pins to keep the circumference down. Once everything was taped up, I wrapped the green wire I was using as a pull through around the end in a noose fashion. After trial and error, I found that simply taping was not enough to pull the large harness through. You need the wire to tighten its grip around the supply loom while you pull. Once your pull wire is secured grease up the thick portion with some silicone grease.

Then I started the the pulling process. You will want to check the engine side occasionally to make sure you don’t snag anything. Because of the staggering I did of the connectors, I did have a loop of wire catch a bolt at one point.

Once the harness was pulled all the way through I just routed along the center console. I found no other way for the harness to reach without extending it, which I was trying to avoid. Of note, looking at the pictures, I initially dropped the harness down on the driver side of the battery and I found that the harness would not reach that way. I had to push the large fuse holders up from under the Jeep into the position in the picture. So obviously just drop them from there if you are attempting this.

Hope this helps anybody attempting this themselves. This took me at least 12 or more hours of trial and error to get just perfect. Now I’m just waiting on my hoses, fittings and a replacement for the male 5 pin connector since mine came cracked :mad: Luckily I found it on eBay after much searching. I didn’t want to wait on ARB or the shop that ordered it for me.

Jeep Wrangler JL Mounting ARB Air Compressor D1A3EB23-BD04-4437-A14A-334FC2FAF760




Jeep Wrangler JL Mounting ARB Air Compressor 5134963D-EFA0-49CC-AE6C-905A5F852BB6


Jeep Wrangler JL Mounting ARB Air Compressor C372D5B0-06C1-4522-AA81-0084B7419672


Jeep Wrangler JL Mounting ARB Air Compressor E022AC29-A192-45A8-A787-40FF0A4A3E61


Jeep Wrangler JL Mounting ARB Air Compressor D635BE42-1DA9-424D-A9AD-B50F5F3EC551


Jeep Wrangler JL Mounting ARB Air Compressor EA6767C0-5869-4787-AEE3-C016398C3CC3
 

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oceanblue2019

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Well, it took an international treaty, human sacrifice and an act of God, but I managed to get my ARB twin supply harness through the passenger side grommet and under the seat.
Looks like you got it done and that is what matters.

Whats the little PDC box under your hood right above the main fuse box?

PS: Your tires are rubbing your lower front control arms. You can adjust the steering stops to prevent that.
 

Krazyk86cu

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Looks like you got it done and that is what matters.

Whats the little PDC box under your hood right above the main fuse box?

PS: Your tires are rubbing your lower front control arms. You can adjust the steering stops to prevent that.
It’s a relay I used to wire my BD LP9s. I followed a post I saw on here so that Aux 1 turns on the low beams, then pressing aux 3 with aux 1 on turns on the high beams. The amber running light is wired to my parking lights.
 

tonygiotta

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I’m honestly embarrassed to explain how long this took, but I was determined to make it through the grommet nipple on the top rather than poking through the bottom of the harness.
Wow, that's some determination right there! Thought I took a long time to do it. lol

So did you manage to do that without removing the PDC / fuse box? Can't believe you squeezed that big ol' harness through that tiny little nipple...
 

oceanblue2019

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It’s a relay I used to wire my BD LP9s. I followed a post I saw on here so that Aux 1 turns on the low beams, then pressing aux 3 with aux 1 on turns on the high beams. The amber running light is wired to my parking lights.
I'm looking at LP4/6/9's as my next upgrade. Do you find you need to flip them from low to high?

I was assuming even on low they are a "way too bright for the street" so was planning on wiring up high only. Any reason to go the same route you did?
 

oceanblue2019

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Wow, that's some determination right there! Thought I took a long time to do it. lol

So did you manage to do that without removing the fuse box? Can't believe you squeezed that big ol' harness through that tiny little nipple...
I was thinking the same - I used your instructions and pulled the fuse box and went the easy way - which still wasn't that easy. Lucky my son is skinny with long arms to get up under dash to pull the 6 gauge through.
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