Mopar Lift Kit vs....

[tma777]

It all depends on how much height you get when you lift it. My suggestion would be measure before and after you put the lift on, if you get 2” of lift then nothing else needed. If you get closer to 3” or more than get the extra parts.

Thanks, thats what I was thinking. I will probably order the track bar when I order the kit just to have it if needed.

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[Roky]

Thanks, thats what I was thinking. I will probably order the track bar when I order the kit just to have it if needed.

Good idea to replace track bar either way, because the oem recycled Budweiser can track bar can barley handle stock tires, if you go 35s or 37s you’ll get a lot more stability from aftermarket track bar. You’ll see what I mean when you’re holding both of them and feel the weight difference.

 

[Roky]

Here’s my friends sport s on Mopar kit, he got 3.5” of lift. You can see the axle shifted from the front and he measured an inch off in the front and 3/4 “ in the rear. He decided to go with the relocation bracket instead of adjustable track bar in the rear however.

 

[tma777]

Here’s my friends sport s on Mopar kit, he got 3.5” of lift. You can see the axle shifted from the front and he measured an inch off in the front and 3/4 “ in the rear. He decided to go with the relocation bracket instead of adjustable track bar in the rear however.

Cool, thanks for posting the pics for reference. Did the relocation bracket help with the rear?

 

[Roky]

Cool, thanks for posting the pics for reference. Did the relocation bracket help with the rear?

Yes, the axle shifts because you’re putting the track bar on more of an angle so by lifting the track bar your putting it back to the same angle it was at stock height therefore realigning the axle. It’s not as precise as an adjustable track bar but it puts it back within specs. I prefer the adjustability of the adj. trackbar personally.

 

[jlroman2]

Will the dealership be able to program Bigger tires to adjust to the speedometer? Has anyone been successful with this and if so about how much is the charge. I really want to avoid the tazer but if the dealer charges way more, then I guess I’ll have to get it.

 

[Carlton]

Will the dealership be able to program Bigger tires to adjust to the speedometer? Has anyone been successful with this and if so about how much is the charge. I really want to avoid the tazer but if the dealer charges way more, then I guess I’ll have to get it.

From what I've seen the dealerships now charge a contract fee of $150-200 plus the labor of the job. Definitely not worth it.

Get a Tazer or Superchips Flashcal. This will allow you to makes changes as needed for one price, not reoccurring charges. Unplug the programmer after you make the change, you will have no issues. Issues occur when people leave it plugged in and use live features.

 

[Roky]

Will the dealership be able to program Bigger tires to adjust to the speedometer? Has anyone been successful with this and if so about how much is the charge. I really want to avoid the tazer but if the dealer charges way more, then I guess I’ll have to get it.

Agree with @Carlton to get tazer. I have tazer jl mini , it stays plugged into the gateway not OBD port, I have zero issues and there’s so many things you can do with it.

 

[jlroman2]

From what I've seen the dealerships now charge a contract fee of $150-200 plus the labor of the job. Definitely not worth it.

Get a Tazer or Superchips Flashcal. This will allow you to makes changes as needed for one price, not reoccurring charges. Unplug the programmer after you make the change, you will have no issues. Issues occur when people leave it plugged in and use live features.

Agree with @Carlton to get tazer. I have tazer jl mini , it stays plugged into the gateway not OBD port, I have zero issues and there’s so many things you can do with it.

Thanks for the feedback. I'm just afraid of messing up with the electric stuff but if dealers are charging that much, is not even worth going through the hassle. I'll just have to follow the instructions thoroughly, when I get it.

 

[Roky]

Thanks for the feedback. I'm just afraid of messing up with the electric stuff but if dealers are charging that much, is not even worth going through the hassle. I'll just have to follow the instructions thoroughly, when I get it.

It’s easier than you think, I’m probably the least techy person on this forum and I figured it out, so there’s that. Lol:. You can pm me if you get stuck, but you won’t screw anything up, once you unmarry it all your factory settings are restored.

 

[Carlton]

Agree with @Carlton to get tazer. I have tazer jl mini , it stays plugged into the gateway not OBD port, I have zero issues and there’s so many things you can do with it.

If you are are just using it for tire size, TPMS, gear swap, etc, no live features, you can completely unplug it once you have made the changes.

 

[Roky]

If you are are just using it for tire size, TPMS, gear swap, etc, no live features, you can completely unplug it once you have made the changes.

Yeah... I use it for sway bar kill, Ess, lockers etc...., just easier for me to leave it in. I unmarry and remove it if I have to take it in for warranty work and such.

 

[jlroman2]

I appreciate you all. I'm most likely going with the Mopar lift and 35s. Once I get the work done, I'll share some pics!

 

[Roky]

I appreciate you all. I'm most likely going with the Mopar lift and 35s. Once I get the work done, I'll share some pics!

That’s great, I would get you some rk spring isolators if you don’t get anything else, at least you won’t have to worry about springs bowing.

 

[word302]

That’s great, I would get you some rk spring isolators if you don’t get anything else, at least you won’t have to worry about springs bowing.

It still boggles my mind why anyone would buy anything that doesn't work properly without buying more things from other manufacturers.

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