Metalcloak lift kit question

[jhackathorne]

If road noise is a concern, MT's will for sure be louder than AT's.

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[JpLfe]

Thanks @jhackathorne .
I plan to use my Jeep for both occasional wheeling and for our weekend ski trips to Tahoe with my girls during winter. So in addition to road noise, I’d want the tires to perform well in snow as well. Hence I’m leaning towards ATs for now.
I can’t justify spending the $$ on a spare set of MTs in addition of a new set of ATs.

As it is, the quote I’m getting from my mechanic is approx $9k total for :
1. MC GC 2.5” lift kit+front drive shaft- $3500
2. new set of wheels(Method 312s) - $1725
3. New set of 35” tires (Falcons Wildpeak AT3) - $1920
4. all the labor for the lift and wheel alignment - $1200

 

[Vanburi]

Sounds like a good deal.

 

[GATORB8]

Thanks @jhackathorne .
I plan to use my Jeep for both occasional wheeling and for our weekend ski trips to Tahoe with my girls during winter. So in addition to road noise, I’d want the tires to perform well in snow as well. Hence I’m leaning towards ATs for now.
I can’t justify spending the $$ on a spare set of MTs in addition of a new set of ATs.

As it is, the quote I’m getting from my mechanic is approx $9k total for :
1. MC GC 2.5” lift kit+front drive shaft- $3500
2. new set of wheels(Method 312s) - $1725
3. New set of 35” tires (Falcons Wildpeak AT3) - $1920
4. all the labor for the lift and wheel alignment - $1200

While I do recommend to buy once cry once, and you get what you pay for here, I think it's good to at least know the options when your considering something that may be more than you feel you need.

1. While the Dual Rate and Game Changer are different kits on the site, their components aren't mutually exclusive. The GC is a DR with more parts, and those parts are available separately. So, you could decide to go with a DR, and turn it into a GC down the road should you want more capability.

The majority of the time spent installing a lift on a JLU is swapping springs and front bumps. The additional control arms in the GC are actually parts that can be swapped one at a time with the Jeep sitting on the ground in your garage/driveway.

2. While one of the great benefits of Metalcloak's system is the amount of flex it's capable of, the mandatory need for a driveshaft is a result of that. Note, this is because of the amount of extended front shock length establishes the amount of droop, and the MC shocks are long enough they can out droop the driveshaft.

You can sidestep that requirement (at least in the short term) by purchasing third party shocks that have less extension.

 

[jhackathorne]

I can't speak on if that is a good price for all of the work since I do my own work. @Roky would be able to tell you if that is a good price. Regarding lift kit, that is entirely up to you. What you use your Jeep for and how much disposable income you have. No doubt that MC is one of the premiere kits however without going fully customized.

Price on tires is crazy. I paid $265 for my 35" Falken's. I would seriously consider going to 37's if I were you. You never stated what motor you are running, but the higher gearing and 8 spd. transmission still would allow you to go to 37's and not have an issue. 2.5" GC lift is likely to get you more than 2.5" as MC rates their lift height on being fully armored and ready to go. 35's might look a little small IMO.

To add to what @GATORB8 said, you can always go DR and add the other parts as needed. I would go DR and add lower control arms. You also did not state if the lift quote you received was shocks or not.

 

[JpLfe]

I can't speak on if that is a good price for all of the work since I do my own work. @Roky would be able to tell you if that is a good price. Regarding lift kit, that is entirely up to you. What you use your Jeep for and how much disposable income you have. No doubt that MC is one of the premiere kits however without going fully customized.

Price on tires is crazy. I paid $265 for my 35" Falken's. I would seriously consider going to 37's if I were you. You never stated what motor you are running, but the higher gearing and 8 spd. transmission still would allow you to go to 37's and not have an issue. 2.5" GC lift is likely to get you more than 2.5" as MC rates their lift height on being fully armored and ready to go. 35's might look a little small IMO.

To add to what @GATORB8 said, you can always go DR and add the other parts as needed. I would go DR and add lower control arms. You also did not state if the lift quote you received was shocks or not.

thanks. I have the 3.6 v6 with 6-speed manual transmission. If I go the route of 37" Im worried about the additional weight of the tires that might warrant gearing changes, gas mileage and other downstream impacts. Hence trying to avoid the 37"s right now.

 

[JpLfe]

thanks. I have the 3.6 v6 with 6-speed manual transmission. If I go the route of 37" Im worried about the additional weight of the tires that might warrant gearing changes, gas mileage and other downstream impacts. Hence trying to avoid the 37"s right now.

And yes, the lift quote I received was with the shocks (Rockspport long travel)

 

[JpLfe]

While I do recommend to buy once cry once, and you get what you pay for here, I think it's good to at least know the options when your considering something that may be more than you feel you need.

1. While the Dual Rate and Game Changer are different kits on the site, their components aren't mutually exclusive. The GC is a DR with more parts, and those parts are available separately. So, you could decide to go with a DR, and turn it into a GC down the road should you want more capability.

The majority of the time spent installing a lift on a JLU is swapping springs and front bumps. The additional control arms in the GC are actually parts that can be swapped one at a time with the Jeep sitting on the ground in your garage/driveway.

2. While one of the great benefits of Metalcloak's system is the amount of flex it's capable of, the mandatory need for a driveshaft is a result of that. Note, this is because of the amount of extended front shock length establishes the amount of droop, and the MC shocks are long enough they can out droop the driveshaft.

You can sidestep that requirement (at least in the short term) by purchasing third party shocks that have less extension.

thanks, this is great info

 

[JpLfe]

thanks. I have the 3.6 v6 with 6-speed manual transmission. If I go the route of 37" Im worried about the additional weight of the tires that might warrant gearing changes, gas mileage and other downstream impacts. Hence trying to avoid the 37"s right now.

@jhackathorne On further thought, I have decided to take your advice and go for the 37"s now instead of the 35"s. As I said I have the 6-speed manual with 3.6L v6 engine. I hope I wouldn't need to re-gear too soon in the future. I might also add the steering bracket in the future as needed. But man, the prices for the 37"s Falcons are so much more expensive than the 35"s ($2500 for set of 5).

 

[word302]

@jhackathorne On further thought, I have decided to take your advice and go for the 37"s now instead of the 35"s. As I said I have the 6-speed manual with 3.6L v6 engine. I hope I wouldn't need to re-gear too soon in the future. I might also add the steering bracket in the future as needed. But man, the prices for the 37"s Falcons are so much more expensive than the 35"s ($2500 for set of 5).

It will be drivable without re-gearing, but it’s far from ideal. I dealt with it for almost 2 years. 5th and 6th gear will be pretty worthless unless you’re on very flat or downhill highways. You’ll average 14-16 MPG depending on how heavy those 37s are. I highly recommend 5.13 gears as soon as you can swing it. Do all that work yourself and the gears will be paid for. If you add a RTT your gas mileage will plummet from there.

 

[Go_Galt]

@jhackathorne On further thought, I have decided to take your advice and go for the 37"s now instead of the 35"s. As I said I have the 6-speed manual with 3.6L v6 engine. I hope I wouldn't need to re-gear too soon in the future. I might also add the steering bracket in the future as needed. But man, the prices for the 37"s Falcons are so much more expensive than the 35"s ($2500 for set of 5).

There's a strong possibility you will NOT enjoy driving a manual JL with 4.10s on 37s.

If you're 'hoping' to not need to regear, I wouldn't think about 37s until you're 100% open to the idea of regearing.

Keep in mind that most of the first hand accounts you see on here where people say 4.10s are 'totally fine' with 37s are automatics. Gears too-tall for the tires hurts our drivability considerably more than 8-speed auto guys.

 

[JpLfe]

There's a strong possibility you will NOT enjoy driving a manual JL with 4.10s on 37s.

If you're 'hoping' to not need to regear, I wouldn't think about 37s until you're 100% open to the idea of regearing.

Keep in mind that most of the first hand accounts you see on here where people say 4.10s are 'totally fine' with 37s are automatics. Gears too-tall for the tires hurts our drivability considerably more than 8-speed auto guys.

Thanks @Go_Galt and @word302 . I didn’t realize 37s would impact auto and manual transmissions very differently. I’m definitely open to regearing to 5.13 down the road - are there any downsides to re-gearing the JLUR to 5.13 from 4.10 ?

 

[roaniecowpony]

Clearly, chosing tires

Thanks @Go_Galt and @word302 . I didn’t realize 37s would impact auto and manual transmissions very differently. I’m definitely open to regearing to 5.13 down the road - are there any downsides to re-gearing the JLUR to 5.13 from 4.10 ?

The pinion gear gets smaller and smaller with the lower (higher numerically) gears. This makes for a small contact patch on the gears and it results in a higher specific loading of the gear teeth.

 

[word302]

Thanks @Go_Galt and @word302 . I didn’t realize 37s would impact auto and manual transmissions very differently. I’m definitely open to regearing to 5.13 down the road - are there any downsides to re-gearing the JLUR to 5.13 from 4.10 ?

You will have 0 issues. If you were running 40” tires maybe I’d worry about pinion strength but you’ll be golden with 37s.

 

[Rubi6mt]

It will be drivable without re-gearing, but it’s far from ideal. I dealt with it for almost 2 years. 5th and 6th gear will be pretty worthless unless you’re on very flat or downhill highways. You’ll average 14-16 MPG depending on how heavy those 37s are. I highly recommend 5.13 gears as soon as you can swing it. Do all that work yourself and the gears will be paid for. If you add a RTT your gas mileage will plummet from there.

Relatively new member here but agree on regearing. Loaded up yesterday with the family with a/c full blast in 95 degree hit...took off from a steep hill and really had to put the skinny pedal down and launch at 2k rpm in first. This is on stock 2021 JLUR with 33's and 4.10's 6-speed.

Scheduled for install of AEV 2.5" lift kit plus 35's in 2 weeks (followed by bumper/winch/lights 2 weeks after that) and have just included the install of 4.88 gears.

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