Manual Windows

[The Great Grape Ape]

Something I've been wondering about is whether there are door removal steps that you could cheat on if you had manual windows.

Yes as there is no electrical connector to unfasten. The JK nuts are the same way and it appears the JL will be the same. Now the new door stops will they need to be unscrewed,,,

Just to follow-up on this a bit, you can leave the door stops unhooked and then will stay recessed into the door frame. A feature Manley showed off in L.A.

As much as I like the fact that there are no wire looms for the manual doors/locks in my JK, the new easier to disconnect system for the JL, might make the hassle almost trivial now, as it’s as easy as a flip of a switch not a slide of a toggle and trying to get the finicky little clip to disengage, I have high hopes the new system will be much easier & quicker.

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[The Great Grape Ape]

What part of the window crank hits your knee? If it's the knob on the end, I wonder if you can remove the crank handle and reposition it so when the window is all the way up the crank handle is in a different position that avoids your knee. Most crank handles are splined and held on with a screw or clip allowing you to reposition the handle.

You can reposition it essentially 180 degrees from the position you find it in by default when closed/open.
However, if his knee is hitting the centrepoint, then there’s nothing for that. They improved the electric locks by making them nore recessed so it less of an issue for me, but the window crank is a slightly different position so once properly rotated it no longer hits me. I am interested to see if they altered the position or the default rotation of the manual windows on the JL, but I doubt it. Even just adding a few more degree options like 90/270 would be nice.

Edit, missed your follow-up. Trying to catch-up to the thread after holidays and replying in-line.

 

[The Great Grape Ape]

Anyway, mechanical windows never bothered me in the '70's-'90's, but I guess I got spoiled the last few decades? I think I'd be just fine and dandy with old fashioned mechanical windows? Anyone get the mechanical ones and regret their decision?

I have the manual window on my JK and electric on my JKU. Both have their benefits and drawbacks of course, and... I Regret Nothing.....

Granted you need to reach across for the front passenger, and then behind for the rear (definitely needing to be stopped for rear passenger IMO), and it precludes remote locking, but those are minor inconveniences. Never had the resale issue, the manual transmission has trumped all else when sold the 2010, though your mileage will vary depending on audience.

Now another consideration if you do find the knob handle hits your knee in the default position, then even if you rotate it you might find a partially open cranked window may line that knob up with your knee again should you use wind/rain deflectors like the WeatherTech ones I use over the VentShade ones, or just prefer a specific size partially opened window. It might impact your partial open preference. Hasn’t matter much for me as it’s away from my knee on both when initially rotated, but may impact you.

Since it’s mostly about the negative aspects in the threwd, I will mention the one positive which might but likely won’t apply to your use. With manual windows you have more control of the rate at which they come down, which seems unimportant in most situations, but with iced up windows you can put gentle but constant pressure on the window while taping it to release it or crack the ice holding it in place. I have burnt through 2 motors and separated a few windows from the mechanism in my time when opening electric windows for things like parkade access. I also separated a manual window when I was a kid on my Gran’s Pontiac Acadian, but that was the era or teenage brute force over intelligence. Anywhoo, every time I have to open the electric windows in the JK in very icey & cold weather, a shudder goes through me in anticipation of the motor burning out or the window separating. Neither has happened on the JKU yet, but more than a few times there has been that second or so pause before it has broken free, and a couple of times no initial action, then I stopped, waited to tap the upper glass with a gloved knuckle, and then a second try released it. Only once have I had no response after 3 tries and instead of risking the motor opened the door to tap the outisde of the pane.

 

[FCrackerJLRubi]

I toyed with the idea of putting this 2 door electric window kit in mine, but since I decided to go the JL route I did not spend the money on it.

https://www.quadratec.com/products/...NlYXMlbjEVnApnM5SRbbUhKgShDQb_LYaAr5aEALw_wcB

As for the window crank handle relocation, yes it is a 2 position handle that you can relocate it 180 degrees...I did not know this until @The Great Grape Ape said this and I looked it up. This will be something I will be doing when I get home later for sure, it will make my winter a little better while I wait on the JL

Thanks!

 

[Vintage]

I had a 2001 TJ and 2012 JK - BOTH manual locks and windows. To me, it was easy to operate and preferred but I do have longish arms and it was easy to reach over to the passenger side and operate the lock and window. I sat in a Rubi at the LA Auto show and it should be no issue for me on the JL either.

It actually saddens me that to keep these items manual I have to order a base Sport because with a base Sport I cannot order the upgraded soft top or LED lights (nope, to get LED lights I have to go all the way up to a Rubi that honestly I do not need - not a hard core rock crawler), and other than the Aux Switches and Towing Packing that is all I want - I could live without the LEDs. I actually want a Sport S with Manual locks and windows! I guess I am the weirdo but they were easy to operate on both my prior Jeeps and I put 140k miles on my JK Sport S. For me, the simpler the better and makes me smile while driving my Wrangler around.

Maybe if I wait to order my Wrangler then with a little time FCA with be less "soup Nazi" on how these models are optioned, or the lack there of on the base model? Good lord, I would even pay the same price for a Sport S or Rubi I could delete the power group from; please do not read this FCA.

 

[Matt The Hammer]

I just swapped out my radial tires for bias ply. Real Jeeps don't use radials...

Can I get manual steering too?

 

[Vintage]

I just swapped out my radial tires for bias ply. Real Jeeps don't use radials...

Can I get manual steering too?

I get your point and it is valid, but I just prefer the manual locks and windows with MT. It seems the Sport is for me. I will live without the upgraded top and LEDs. If this Wrangler were going to be my DD, I would probably get the Sport S with the 8sp.

 

[Ozarkpaddler]

Hadn't even thought of motor burning out with ice, etc on the autos? I did that with wipers accidentally once and burned out the back window motor on my International Travelall when an idiot friend of a friend was holding it down when I was trying to raise it.

More good reasons. And thanks, I'll keep my power steering. As far as the radials, though, the bias ply works better on our bad gravel and stone Ozark roads, creeks, pastures. When it comes time to retire and I'm not driving back and forth to work, radials will be replaced.

 

[cbasil]

I absolutely love my Jeeps mechanical windows, Zero regrets and would choose manual windows & locks again if I had to. I will say, if I had a 4 door I might not feel the same, since you can't exactly reach the back door windows/locks from the driver seat if someone leaves a window rolled down or you need to let someone in the back seat. But for a 2 door, I wouldn't want power windows even if they included them for free

 

[COBill]

But for a 2 door, I wouldn't want power windows even if they included them for free

Alas, for many configurations, you won't have a choice.

 

[Vintage]

Alas, for many configurations, you won't have a choice.

Yep, based on value and some of the deals floating around, I want the 2 door Rubi with M locks and windows and transmission BUT since I cannot have that (thanks Italians and weak Detroit folks), probably going opposite direction and very old school with base Sport to be modified . . . . Teraflex anyone? Yet, I will spend much more that route . . .

 

[cbasil]

Yep, based on value and some of the deals floating around, I want the 2 door Rubi with M locks and windows and transmission BUT since I cannot have that (thanks Italians and week Detroit folks), probably going opposite direction and very old school with base Sport to be modified . . . . Teraflex anyone? Yet, I will spend much more that route . . .

Yeah it's a bummer the Sports are coming with D35 rears (from what I've seen so far, correct me if I'm wrong.) At least on the JK you could get a Rubi with no power accessories, but the Sport came with a D44 rear, so you could always just throw a locker in it. Now they made the Rubi too fancy, and the Sport too basic so its harder to find a nice balance.

 

[Indio]

Yeah it's a bummer the Sports are coming with D35 rears (from what I've seen so far, correct me if I'm wrong.) At least on the JK you could get a Rubi with no power accessories, but the Sport came with a D44 rear, so you could always just throw a locker in it. Now they made the Rubi too fancy, and the Sport too basic so its harder to find a nice balance.

The up-rated rear axle (Jeep is calling D44) is available on the JL Sport, but for an extra $595. It is called the "Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle" option.

 

[cbasil]

The up-rated rear axle (Jeep is calling D44) is available on the JL Sport, but for an extra $595. It is called the "Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle" option.

Ohh okay, thanks for the info. Honestly for only $600, a D44 rear with a limited slip is a no brainer, you'd be crazy not to opt for that.

 

[Indio]

Ohh okay, thanks for the info. Honestly for only $600, a D44 rear with a limited slip is a no brainer, you'd be crazy not to opt for that.

Agreed, for anyone who plans to stress the rear axle on a Sport/Sahara, the extra $600 for D44 with limited slip can pay dividends. Plus the rear axle often takes more of the abuse, such as when climbing under power with weight transferred backwards. So while it is nice to also have a strong front axle, typically it's not as key as the rear axle.

I've read in these forums that the new D44 and D35 axles have some different attributes compared to prior version. So it will be interesting to get some detailed tech reviews. I am curious to what degree the new D35 front axle is an improvement over the standard JK front axle. Although maybe that will take some time to see where the failure points are in usage (hopefully few).

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