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LSD or No LSD?

ArmyRN

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I just spent about $3600 to put true tracs front and rear (no gear change) in my 23 JLU Willys XR. It came with the clutch type LS in the rear. I've had great experiences with the True tracs.

The factory BLD should make the True trac even better.
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I just spent about $3600 to put true tracs front and rear (no gear change) in my 23 JLU Willys XR. It came with the clutch type LS in the rear. I've had great experiences with the True tracs.

The factory BLD should make the True trac even better.
What diff lube did you choose? Last time I looked (been a while) the true track asked for non synth, although they may have recently allowed synth fluid.
 

ArmyRN

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What diff lube did you choose? Last time I looked (been a while) the true track asked for non synth, although they may have recently allowed synth fluid.
Pure Dino. No synthetic or additives. Some folks will say they've used synthetics with no issues, but I went with what the manufacturer recommends.
 
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Fixing the LSD a time or two on your otherwise mechanically sound JL is still cheaper than buying a new JL that doesn't have it.
Agree...AND we shouldn't forget that the stock LSD comes with the heavier rear diff too.
 

ArmyRN

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IMHO, unless you're doing serious regular fourwheeling, you're best bet is TrueTracs front and rear - better than a Rubicon. They're always on, and very street friendly. They're awesome in mild to moderate fourwheeling, and in the snow too.

I had a 96 Dodge 1500 4x4 and had TrueTracs front and rear for years. Incredible.
 
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ArmyRN

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When they swapped out my rear diff for the TrueTrac, they said my gear oil looked a little burned. Might also have been some of the clutch material too(?). I had been doing a bit of flat towing a 3000lb flatty, and that might have stressed my rear diff's oil.

I also did a FAD delete when they put in the TrueTrac up front using the MOPAR plate.

Jeep Wrangler JL LSD or No LSD? 20240826_191226
 
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mishkajb

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Ohhh. Limited Slip.

I was thinking the LSD that makes the wallpaper bubble!
 

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I'd keep what you have, especially with things @alphawolff has mentioned about build quality of the '24's. Your Jeep is still practically new.
Just responding to double down on the 2024s being built like shit. Just found out my 24 2-door has an evap leak from a vapor hose by the transmission. There's a heatshield around the hose, but the guys at the factory didn't slide it down enough causing the hose to melt from the exhaust heat.
 

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Just responding to double down on the 2024s being built like shit. Just found out my 24 2-door has an evap leak from a vapor hose by the transmission. There's a heatshield around the hose, but the guys at the factory didn't slide it down enough causing the hose to melt from the exhaust heat.
Mm. I've had to double down on dissuading a family member from reconsidering her planned Wrangler purchase. After originally withdrawing due to price fatigue, she recently made overtures about getting one after all.

Having additional intel via the forum -- including your posts on the subject -- only strengthened my resolve to advise her to keep her checkbook in her purse.
 

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When they swapped out my rear diff for the TrueTrac, they said my gear oil looked a little burned. Might also have been some of the clutch material too(?). I had been doing a bit of flat towing a 3000lb flatty, and that might have stressed my rear diff's oil.

I also did a FAD delete when they put in the TrueTrac up front using the MOPAR plate.
What did you do with the stock actuator, remove and tape up the connector? Then use a programmer to turn off the light?
 

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I can for once offer some first-hand experience (feel free to draw your own conclusions, of course):
  • Installed f/r truetracs and regeared my Sahara about a year ago (maybe two?)
  • Couple weekends back I attended an offroad bootcamp class and there was a non-LSD stock sport. They took advantage of the different vehicles (4Runner, Bronco with rear locker, Rubi, non-LSD stock JL sport and my JLU with the true-tracs) to show us how differently each system behave in a sand pit.
  • As expected, my Sahara with the truetracs was the only one that made it out of slippery situations without engaging anything extra (there was nothing to engage, either!).
  • All made it through all obstacles, but the BLD in the non-LSD Jeep definitely wasn’t up to the task on the first trt and required picking a different line, for example.
    IMG_6933.jpeg
I say he's got the wrong tire. An all terrain in that mess. My Rubicon with lockers off and BLD will get through it. Though I run Falken M/Ts as a daily driver.
 

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Bill_BCNtoNY

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I say he's got the wrong tire. An all terrain in that mess. My Rubicon with lockers off and BLD will get through it. Though I run Falken M/Ts as a daily driver.
that is a good point - the stock JL had BFG Ultra Terrain’s which are very mild AT tire if memory serves.
 

ArmyRN

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What did you do with the stock actuator, remove and tape up the connector? Then use a programmer to turn off the light?
Yes. Taped up the connector, and then used my tazer to make the Jeep think there is no FAD. The FAD unit is sitting in a box in the shop.

The Mopar FAD removal thingy is essentially a plate with a fork attached that keeps the fork slid over connecting the two axle shafts together. It is a factory part.
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