Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44

[DLW]

If the lockers were working alright, I would just pot them and reinstall. Sell them like that. The plug having oil on it is a different issue, so the sensors could be dry still.

Doh!
What is the issue where that external plug has oil in it then?
I thought it was due to the internal sensor having oil in and wicking up the wires.
Sounds like I need to fix something else?

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[chevymitchell]

Doh!
What is the issue where that external plug has oil in it then?
I thought it was due to the internal sensor having oil in and wicking up the wires.
Sounds like I need to fix something else?

The sensor issue is contained within the sensor itself. Oil going through the harness is from oil seeping through the pins.

You can replace the feed through plug to help your issue; the piece with the o-ring on it.

 

[DLW]

The sensor issue is contained within the sensor itself. Oil going through the harness is from oil seeping through the pins.

You can replace the feed through plug to help your issue; the piece with the o-ring on it.

I see, so just replace this piece for now https://www.quadratec.com/p/mopar/68400411AA-axle-locker-connector-jl-rubicon-dana-44 ?

Thanks Shawn! This info is most appreciated.

 

[chevymitchell]

I see, so just replace this piece for now https://www.quadratec.com/p/mopar/68400411AA-axle-locker-connector-jl-rubicon-dana-44 ?

Thanks Shawn! This info is most appreciated.

You’re welcome.

Yep, that’s the one.

 

[mgroeger]

Yes. The real down side is the dash will indicate it’s unlocked and it’s actually locked. This could be really bad if the locker isn’t fully disengaged and you go into 2H/4H. The risk of breaking something is much higher. @mgroeger experienced something similar in a drive thru when his sensor was failing and there was inadvertent locking of the diff. The factory system may seem over-engineered, but it does have an in-transit feature that’s really handy.

Well I actually had two sep issues. The drive through issue was I pressed the locker button because I was bored and it locked in the drive through. I might have been able to do this because the Tazer was allowing it but I doubt that since I didn't have it set that way. As Shawn noted it wouldn't unlock after that and I had to physically disconnect the wire at the diff to get it to release.
Another time was when it decided to lock while I was on the road at some point. I didn't realize it was locked and did a U turn and scared the $hit out of myself.
I know some people say F it and completely abandon the factory switches and run there own wire from an AUX switch. The added advantage is the lockers engage and release more quickly since the computer doesn't need to do all of it's checks.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Knowing this information now, I’m tempted to pot the sensors since they haven’t completely failed. Then keep the Z locker OEM in the glove box in case they fail on the trail sometime.

Thanks for the helpful information

Pot them...you'll be glad you did.

 

[Fireck]

Mine was flashing on and off since a month and steady since 2 week. I potted it like this write-up to be certain but i think my problem was that there was too many small piece of steel, like mudd, on the magnet that goes with the sensor!

 

[jav_eee]

Mine was flashing on and off since a month and steady since 2 week. I potted it like this write-up to be certain but i think my problem was that there was too many small piece of steel, like mudd, on the magnet that goes with the sensor!

did potting the sensor fix your issue?

 

[Fireck]

did potting the sensor fix your issue?

Yes, potting my sensor like in this write-up deffenitly seal my problem. I do not think just cleaning up the sensor was to protect the sensor to fail in the futur. if you feel you can pot your sensor, do it! You will be glad you did. And thanks to the guy who publish this write-up. You save us a lot of problem..

 

[chevymitchell]

Yes, potting my sensor like in this write-up deffenitly seal my problem. I do not think just cleaning up the sensor was to protect the sensor to fail in the futur. if you feel you can pot your sensor, do it! You will be glad you did. And thanks to the guy who publish this write-up. You save us a lot of problem..

You're welcome, man.

 

[legacy_etu]

So is the red loctite going on the T20 bolt holding the sensor or on the bearing cap bolts?

Seems like red would be overkill for the T20, no? I am wondering if blue should be used. Usually you need to apply heat to loosen red fastened bolts.

 

[chevymitchell]

So is the red loctite going on the T20 bolt holding the sensor or on the bearing cap bolts?

Seems like red would be overkill for the T20, no? I am wondering if blue should be used. Usually you need to apply heat to loosen red fastened bolts.

Red goes on the T20. Bearing cap bolts go in dry.

Use whatever loctite you want. I use a drop of red on those T20's.

 

[RudeJeepin]

Are all the locker sensors suspect to this issue? Or was there a change at some point?
We have a 21 JLURD and a 22 JTRD, that I guess I need to look into doing.

 

[4xe Rubicon]

Are all the locker sensors suspect to this issue? Or was there a change at some point?
We have a 21 JLURD and a 22 JTRD, that I guess I need to look into doing.

Seems so. My 2022 Rubicon rear locker sensor just failed back in June at 19k miles. The delays to get an appointment to have it "diagnosed", then to wait on the parts, then to bring it back to have it finally replaced was . . . lengthy. Finally got replaced yesterday under warranty and of course it was full of gear oil. They used the #2 sensor from the kit and it is identical to the failed one.

Today I pulled the original front and new rear sensors out and potted them. So easy. I absolutely recommend doing this immediately on any brand new Rubicon to avoid the multiple trips and time wasted at the service center. Other than waiting for the potting material to cure, the whole process for both axles takes less time than a single drive to the dealership.

It appears to me that new Rubicons and the current replacement sensors from the kit are all subject to eventually failing from shorting out as they appear to be identical to the ones that have failed for years now.

Thanks again to @chevymitchell and the others that have contributed to this thread.

 

[legacy_etu]

Hmm, I just pulled mine apart to do this and it looks like the design changed. 23 Gladiator Mojave. Build date 7/23

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