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Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44

Hercules

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Second this.

On my first sensor I touched the pcb (or it felt like I did) with the bit. No harm was done, but I was paranoid up until trying the lockers after re-installing when everything worked fine.

A few years later, lockers are still going strong and I'm glad I took the time to do this early.
Thanks guys. This has been one of my more “intrusive mods/preventative mx. I wish I did this BEFORE putting on my rear diff skid , but just a couple of extra steps.
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chevymitchell

chevymitchell

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If they ever pot the sensors from the factory they should most definitely do something for you helping them realize their mistake. I'm sure it won't happen, but they should.
Nah, man. I'm never expecting something like that. I was just joking.

There are so many people that have improved on an OEM design that they would go bankrupt from supporting 3rd party Engineering services. Just bringing light to @JeepCares so they can see simply potting a PCB in a "wet" environment is all that needs to happen for it to become reliable. (This is something any Engineer worth their weight already knows.) They just don't do it.

"They" being Dana and TE Connectivity. This sensor issue isn't a Jeep or FCA problem. If anything it's a vendor audit or vendor quality process QN. It could have also been done on purpose to facilitate Service dollars coming through the Dealership once the warranty is up. Failure or cycle count is certainly engineered into components to keep brands alive. We all know that.
 

Hercules

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You say 12 hrs min before install, but 24 hrs ideal. Is that 24 hrs from initial pot or after the acetone cleaning (which had been at 5 hrs cure time at the point) How critical is it to give a full 24……I may need to reinstall around 19hrs so I can get to work.
 
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chevymitchell

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You say 12 hrs min before install, but 24 hrs ideal. Is that 24 hrs from initial pot or after the acetone cleaning (which had been at 5 hrs cure time at the point) How critical is it to give a full 24……I may need to reinstall around 19hrs so I can get to work.
It's really critical. If you heat the material up before it's cured, it'll bleed out of the sensor.

The 12 hours is accelerated time before install, but the 24 hours is important. That time is a moving target depending on humidity, temp, etc...

I wouldn't risk pushing the cure time of a chemical. You can help the off gassing by setting it in the sun, but it only helps it by a few hours.

That 24 hours is from potting. 19 hours should be enough.
 

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Hercules

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It's really critical. If you heat the material up before it's cured, it'll bleed out of the sensor.

The 12 hours is accelerated time before install, but the 24 hours is important. That time is a moving target depending on humidity, temp, etc...

I wouldn't risk pushing the cure time of a chemical. You can help the off gassing by setting it in the sun, but it only helps it by a few hours.

That 24 hours is from potting. 19 hours should be enough.
Gotcha. I def want to give it the full 24 cure time. I’ll be 24 hrs from initial pot, so that’ll be perfect. I thought it sounded like I had to to wait a full 24 from the 5 hr initial cure to clean up the outside. Thanks again.
Jeep Wrangler JL Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44 7FF0F7E9-6BA6-4F7A-AEF4-38154751D5B7
Jeep Wrangler JL Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44 AB1D0188-4AE5-4768-9B31-E1D9CB4133C2
 
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Hercules

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Well, everything reinstalled. So far failure. Neither works. Now I’m trying to remember if I completely seated the plug, or if I really nicked the pcb more. Any thoughts? Any chance of it one day deciding to stop flashing and work?
 
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chevymitchell

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Well, everything reinstalled. So far failure. Neither works. Now I’m trying to remember if I completely seated the plug, or if I really nicked the pcb more. Any thoughts? Any chance of it one day deciding to stop flashing and work?
If everything was done correctly, they should just work. Did you test it before putting the cover on and filling it with fluid?
 

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If everything was done correctly, they should just work. Did you test it before putting the cover on and filling it with fluid?
No- I didn’t test it before putting the cover on. Perhaps I should have. An update tho- so as I was writing the first post, I was in 4lo and attempting to lock front and rear (light was flashing). I put it drive and went toward 5 feet, they both locked. Then I battled the next 10 mins trying to get them to fully unlock. At one point they were unlocked, and I went back to 2h, went to drive and the rear intermittently said locked. I also felt the wheel hop , telling me I don’t think the rear ever unlocked. I continued to cycle through gear status and 2h to 4 lo, with ans without a slow roll, finally the rear unlocked. Random question- how much dielectric grease did you use on the connector, I filled the plug and had it ooze out when I reconnected. Too much?
 
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chevymitchell

chevymitchell

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No- I didn’t test it before putting the cover on. Perhaps I should have. An update tho- so as I was writing the first post, I was in 4lo and attempting to lock front and rear (light was flashing). I put it drive and went toward 5 feet, they both locked. Then I battled the next 10 mins trying to get them to fully unlock. At one point they were unlocked, and I went back to 2h, went to drive and the rear intermittently said locked. I also felt the wheel hop , telling me I don’t think the rear ever unlocked. I continued to cycle through gear status and 2h to 4 lo, with ans without a slow roll, finally the rear unlocked. Random question- how much dielectric grease did you use on the connector, I filled the plug and had it ooze out when I reconnected. Too much?
Yeah, it's possible you used too much. I normally don't use any at all.

The locking and unlocking troubles aren't a sensor problem. It's usually a side load issue where one shaft is seeing a different TQ amount than the other.

It may be worth cleaning some of the grease out if you put that much in there.
 

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No- I didn’t test it before putting the cover on. Perhaps I should have. An update tho- so as I was writing the first post, I was in 4lo and attempting to lock front and rear (light was flashing). I put it drive and went toward 5 feet, they both locked. Then I battled the next 10 mins trying to get them to fully unlock. At one point they were unlocked, and I went back to 2h, went to drive and the rear intermittently said locked. I also felt the wheel hop , telling me I don’t think the rear ever unlocked. I continued to cycle through gear status and 2h to 4 lo, with ans without a slow roll, finally the rear unlocked. Random question- how much dielectric grease did you use on the connector, I filled the plug and had it ooze out when I reconnected. Too much?
It’s also possible your sensors were shot before you potted them. If they were already having issues, potting won’t fix them.
 
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chevymitchell

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It’s also possible your sensors were shot before you potted them. If they were already having issues, potting won’t fix them.
^True story. Lol
 

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^True story. Lol
I would say possible, but unlikely. I tested the lockers pretty well just before, worked fine. When I pulled them to pot, neither were super dirty, nor had oil inside. My working theory is right now I overdid the dielectric grease by way too much, causing intermittent signals from the locker, this replicating the problem as if the sensor had shorted. I guess I’ll have to open up the diffs again, clean out the plugs, and reservice. I just wish I didn’t have to take the damn rear skid off again.
 
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chevymitchell

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I would say possible, but unlikely. I tested the lockers pretty well just before, worked fine. When I pulled them to pot, neither were super dirty, nor had oil inside. My working theory is right now I overdid the dielectric grease by way too much, causing intermittent signals from the locker, this replicating the problem as if the sensor had shorted. I guess I’ll have to open up the diffs again, clean out the plugs, and reservice. I just wish I didn’t have to take the damn rear skid off again.
Yeah, that skid is annoying. It sounds like everything is working, but just intermittently like you’re saying. I bet you’ll be good to go. Thanks for the updates. Not many have had issues at all, so the anomaly right now with yours is the grease. Good place to start.
 

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Thanks brother. Fingers crossed all goes well the weekend. Thanks for the great write up.
One piece of advice, start early. I removed tge tape before I went to bed because I didn't want it to weld into the porky. It was still wet so the epoxy shifted a little overnight. I had to scrape off the excess.
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