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Lift issues

Roky

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I'd be more concerned about them not knowing which control arm goes where vs. not using a torque wrench. I'll probably get flamed, but I've been making a living as an auto tech for almost 4 decades and 99% of the time my torque wrench is only used when I'm building an engine or a differential. I've never had any sort of failure from too little or too much torque.
Right there with you, been using impact for so long, I can get certain things like lcas within a few lbs of torque spec, from watching and listening to it. I’ll always check and adjust when installing lift for customer, but my shit never gets checked… lol.
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ducatijosh

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Right there with you, been using impact for so long, I can get certain things like lcas within a few lbs of torque spec, from watching and listening to it. I’ll always check and adjust when installing lift for customer, but my shit never gets checked… lol.
Thanks guys, good to know, maybe I'm overreacting on the torque wrench part..... Or you're all lazy! lol
 

Steph1

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One before and two after. Front fenders went from 39” off the ground to 43” off the ground.

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I know these comments might not help much, but the productive one would be asking if the front lower controls arms were replaced by longer ones to dial-in caster, which is one reason why wranglers don't like lift.

My other comment is in regards to looks..... Your Jeep looked awesome in stock XR form and now way overlifted for the tire size, especially that second pic..... So my questions would be 1- you mention front fender measurement. Is that from the side and ground to fender lip ? ( trying to evaluate lift ) 2- What motivated you to lift it ?
 
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ducatijosh

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I know these comments might not help much, but the productive one would be asking if the front lower controls arms were replaced by longer ones to dial-in caster, which is one reason why wranglers don't like lift.

My other comment is in regards to looks..... Your Jeep looked awesome in stock XR form and now way overlifted for the tire size, especially that second pic..... So my questions would be 1- you mention front fender measurement. Is that from the side and ground to fender lip ? ( trying to evaluate lift ) 2- What motivated you to lift it ?

The clayton kit ride right kit comes with upper control arms to dial in caster, lower control arms are stock XR arms. Clayton says upper control arms are for caster adjustments and lower control arms are for centering the axle.

Here's a link to the kit
https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-wrangler-25-ride-right-lift-kit-4dr-2018-jl-4xe

I may go 37's at some point and toss these 35's on my Gladiator, the reason I went with the lift is the bump stops had about an inch of travel after adding my steel bumpers and winch, i'd bottom out on smaller bumps pretty easily. I dont think it looks that bad in person with the 35's. Lot of suspension travel available now.
 

Steph1

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The clayton kit ride right kit comes with upper control arms to dial in caster, lower control arms are stock XR arms. Clayton says upper control arms are for caster adjustments and lower control arms are for centering the axle.

Here's a link to the kit
https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-wrangler-25-ride-right-lift-kit-4dr-2018-jl-4xe

I may go 37's at some point and toss these 35's on my Gladiator, the reason I went with the lift is the bump stops had about an inch of travel after adding my steel bumpers and winch, i'd bottom out on smaller bumps pretty easily. I dont think it looks that bad in person with the 35's. Lot of suspension travel available now.
Oh yeah, I forgot about the bumpstop issue, makes more sense to me now. Hopefully it settles a little and make the 35s look more at home.

You paid good money to buy a Jeep built right out of the factory, it'd be a shame if you negated that optimum gearing/tire combo, but hey, your Jeep:)

what about the measurements you mentionned ?? is that the front fender to ground, or ground to side XR lip at middle wheel ?
 
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I am more suggesting garage and home mechanics use a torque wrench. They don’t always have the feel. I have battery and air tools i use daily and feel i can come with in a few pounds. Been using them for 45 years though. I also recheck my work after a few hundred miles and it seems not a lot do. Around here anyway.
The guy who did your work does warrant a double check on everything he touched.
 

Mikester86

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I'd be more concerned about them not knowing which control arm goes where vs. not using a torque wrench. I'll probably get flamed, but I've been making a living as an auto tech for almost 4 decades and 99% of the time my torque wrench is only used when I'm building an engine or a differential. I've never had any sort of failure from too little or too much torque.
This is interesting info. My lift installer who I highly trust and would recommend stated that Jeep does not use any thread locker on suspension components. So to me it would stand to reason there is a good chance the suspension components could loosen somewhat after use. My installer torques everything to spec, puts a few miles on to make sure there are no issues, then torques to spec again and hands it back to the customer.
 
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ducatijosh

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Oh yeah, I forgot about the bumpstop issue, makes more sense to me now. Hopefully it settles a little and make the 35s look more at home.

You paid good money to buy a Jeep built right out of the factory, it'd be a shame if you negated that optimum gearing/tire combo, but hey, your Jeep:)

what about the measurements you mentionned ?? is that the front fender to ground, or ground to side XR lip at middle wheel ?
Ground up through the center of the wheel to the edge of the fender extension that pokes out.
 

Steph1

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Ground up through the center of the wheel to the edge of the fender extension that pokes out.
Thanks, well it was a bit low compared to other XRs, most people have between 40.25'' to 40.75'' measured at that exact same spot. Might be a high tide/ Beach model thing. I understand even more your motivation. Thanks for specifying.
 
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ducatijosh

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Thanks, well it was a bit low compared to other XRs, most people have between 40.25'' to 40.75'' measured at that exact same spot. Might be a high tide/ Beach model thing. I understand even more your motivation. Thanks for specifying.

Right, and I think that's where it was when I first bought it. When I added the steel bumpers, rock rails and winch it was down to 39" and hardly any bumpstop travel left.
 

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ducatijosh

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Dumb question for an expert here, Do any of the control arms use carriage bolts? Some of the nuts are way up against exhaust and other components so it looks like I would have to put my torque wrench on the bolt size not the nut side, I dont want to be pulling hard against a carriage bolt fitted into a square hole though.
 

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Dumb question for an expert here, Do any of the control arms use carriage bolts? Some of the nuts are way up against exhaust and other components so it looks like I would have to put my torque wrench on the bolt size not the nut side, I dont want to be pulling hard against a carriage bolt fitted into a square hole though.
No carriage bolts.
 
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ducatijosh

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Okay so I went to check torque and quite a few were loose.

Front LCAs had a loose lower bolt on the driver side and a loose upper bolt on passenger. I was able to spin one bolt 180 degrees before torque clicked

Front UCAs had tight lower bolts but both the upper bolts behind the heat shields were loose.

Front track bar was slightly loose at the axle bolt.

Haven’t checked rear yet. This sucks. For all you mechanics that assume you can “feel the torque” you need to start double checking with a torque wrench after.
 

GATORB8

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Okay so I went to check torque and quite a few were loose.

Front LCAs had a loose lower bolt on the driver side and a loose upper bolt on passenger. I was able to spin one bolt 180 degrees before torque clicked

Front UCAs had tight lower bolts but both the upper bolts behind the heat shields were loose.

Front track bar was slightly loose at the axle bolt.

Haven’t checked rear yet. This sucks. For all you mechanics that assume you can “feel the torque” you need to start double checking with a torque wrench after.
Hopefully the track bar bolt takes care of your wobble.
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