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Lets talk about tire load range.

azwjowner

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I don't think anyone has yet mentioned an important distinction with tire load and width: Flotation tires (wider than 11.5") have different definitions for C, D, and E: https://www.tirerack.com/upgrade-garage/what-are-load-ranges-ply-ratings. Essentially, for wider tires, the load ratings move down a letter in terms of PSI, which is what requires the stiffer sidewalls.

A normal E tire has a 80 psi max, an E2 tire (such as 315/70/17) has a 65 psi max. 65 psi is a normal D load rating in narrower tires. Thus, your E load tires on flotation tires are not going to be as harsh as a narrower E load tire. The sidewalls aren't as stiff.

I'd run a 315/70/17 in D (preferably) or E, but I wouldn't run 285/70/17 in E, for example.

From Tire Rack:

LT-metric, LT-flotation and LT-numeric tires are branded with their load range (load range E or LRE) or their ply rating (10 ply rated) on their sidewalls and list their appropriate load range letter in their descriptions as LT245/75R-16 E, 7.50R-15 D or 31x10.50R-15 C. LT-sized tires featuring section widths of 305mm/12.50" or wider have their maximum loads and cold tire pressures rated at reduced maximum load pressures.


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LT-Metric, LT-Flotation and LT-Numeric Light Truck Tires
Load RangePly RatingAbbreviatedMaximum Load Pressure
≤ 295mm / 11.5" wide
Maximum Load Pressure
> 295mm / 11.5" wide
B4B35 psi (240 kPa)***
C6C50 psi (350 kPa)***35 psi (240 kPa)***
D8D65 psi (450 kPa)***50 psi (350 kPa)***
E10E80 psi (550 kPa)***65 psi (450 kPa)***
F12F95 psi (650 kPa)***80 psi (550 kPa)***
***Select LT sizes are designed with modified maximum load pressures. Never exceed the tire's maximum pressure or load as indicated on the sidewall.
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Sand Flea

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I don't want to hijack the OP's thread, but I have a similar concern regarding load range.

The current tires on my Sahara are the factory Goodyear 255/70 R18's and the sidewalls are very stiff. Too stiff for my intended use.

Since my off-roading is always on beach sand, I am looking to eventually replace these tires with the least aggressive tread I can find, with a sidewall that will bulge when aired down to give me flotation in soft sand.

When I replace my tires, I will replace the factory 18" wheels with something in 17" and the factory offset to give me a bit more sidewall.
I would love a non aggressive 'street' tread tire like a BFG T/A radial, preferably in a 285 to 315 width and a 60 or 70 aspect ratio while mounted on a factory offset wheel.

My goal is to keep the tread as non-aggressive as possible, and as close to under the fender flare as possible while maximizing sidewall bulge and that 'marshmallow effect' for good flotation on the beach.

Am I asking for too much?
Photos for emphasis.

Jeep Wrangler JL Lets talk about tire load range. IMG_6695.JPG
Jeep Wrangler JL Lets talk about tire load range. IMG_0086
Jeep Wrangler JL Lets talk about tire load range. IMG_1141
 

azwjowner

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I don't want to hijack the OP's thread, but I have a similar concern regarding load range.

The current tires on my Sahara are the factory Goodyear 255/70 R18's and the sidewalls are very stiff. Too stiff for my intended use.

Since my off-roading is always on beach sand, I am looking to eventually replace these tires with the least aggressive tread I can find, with a sidewall that will bulge when aired down to give me flotation in soft sand.

When I replace my tires, I will replace the factory 18" wheels with something in 17" and the factory offset to give me a bit more sidewall.
I would love a non aggressive 'street' tread tire like a BFG T/A radial, preferably in a 285 to 315 width and a 60 or 70 aspect ratio while mounted on a factory offset wheel.

My goal is to keep the tread as non-aggressive as possible, and as close to under the fender flare as possible while maximizing sidewall bulge and that 'marshmallow effect' for good flotation on the beach.

Am I asking for too much?
Photos for emphasis.
Without rocks to worry about pinching sidewalls, I'd just buy a street tire in 285/70/17 (not LT, just regular passenger load range) and it would likely work great.
 

jo_xj

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Huh. I’ve been running Falken Wildpeaks in E for 12k miles now and have zero complaints. They have done awesome off-road too. I guess I’m just weird because I think they feel better than the same tire on my F-350 does. Now THAT thing rides like crap.
X2 on the wildpeaks. I have E load gelanders on my tj that do feel a little harsh, but the wildpeak 35s on my jl are awesome. I don't notice any harsh ride. I go with e loads cause at least with the bfg ko2 c loads, they may be soft but they also get squishy imo. Plus they wore out at 25k miles. My wildpeaks have 25k miles and still have a ton of life left.

On my tj the "squishier" side wall tires were c load and I would get vibes/some near dw inducing action that I didn't see with e load. Those are 31s though.

I was worried about 35s E load but again zero issues with comfort on or off road. Probably the larger tires have more give than 31s so don't feel it, but that's a guess.
Are those Wildpeaks you guys have in E the A/Ts or M/Ts? I like both, but the A/T LT285/75R17 is E and the M/T LT285/70R17 is C, so not sure which would suite me best.
 

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Are those Wildpeaks you guys have in E the A/Ts or M/Ts? I like both, but the A/T LT285/75R17 is E and the M/T LT285/70R17 is C, so not sure which would suite me best.
I have the AT. Again, it’s subjective, but I don’t have any complaints about the ride. I’m at 30PSI.
 

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The 37" KO2's came in C or D when I was shopping, this forum helped a lot as always and if we planned on going on some of these crazy insane trails you folks love I'd have went C as recommended.
But we'll be taking the left turns and heading for the bunny slopes while you guys are going straight ahead into "The devils death trail" and such so....
Went with the D's figuring it may help with a heavy trailer and they may last longer which I have no idea about. It's all good ;)
 

Upnarms

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I have the AT3s. On road I run at 35psi. On dirt 20psi give or take. I could probably go a lot lower off pavement i suppose
 

zouch

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those Destinations would slip on pavement if there was even a good fog; absolutely horrible traction. certainly not worth putting up with the noise (and i'm not delicate; i have hundreds of thousands of miles on Mud tires).

not sure which model you're talking about going to with the brands you mention, but odds are good any of them will be better.


To each his own. I've loved them so far. But as a I mentioned in another thread on this, at the top of my list for tire upgrades on my stock Willys are KO2s, Falkens, or Toyos.
 

6.2Blazer

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The reason tire manufacturers offer tires in certain load ratings is all about market demand. Sometimes they offer the same size in multiple load ratings (i.e. C or E), and sometimes a certain size is only available in one load rating. Basically, they are comparing what it will cost to offer different tires to what they think they can sell and make money on. It costs of lot of money for a tire manufacturer to come out with a new size or new load rating of a tire.......not like they are making an E rated tire of a certain size and say "what the heck, let's make a C rated tire" and go push a button on the assembly line and C rated tires start popping out. There is R&D work, making the tooling and modifications to the assembly line, labor required to make this different tire (if you start making the C rated tire you can't make the E rated tire at the same time...takes time and labor to change the line over), all the paperwork and labeling, marketing, etc, etc, etc.....
Let's go back to the marketing aspect some more. So let's say a company is making a 35x12.50R17 in only an E load rating. If you want to decide on whether to start offering that size in the C load rating the first thing you do is estimate how many additional tires of that size you may sell if you offered that. Note I said "additional" tires. Let's say they sell 5,000 E load rated tires annually already. If they start offering the same size in C load rating are you going to continue to sell the 5,000 E load rated tires annually plus an additional 3,000 C load rated tires, or are you now only going to sell 3,000 E load rated tires and 2,000 C load rated tires annually. In that case you are not selling any "additional" tires. Same people are buying the tires but now just deciding if they want C or E load rating. Just the manufacturer has now spent a bunch of money to do this but is getting no extra revenue in return. You have to be careful when offering a new product so you don't "cannibalize" the sales of an existing product you already make.
Something to keep in mind is that a lot of people really don't know about load ratings. They just look at the size and tread pattern of the tire. A decent tire store should at least make sure the tires are rated high enough, but that is something else. There is no safety concern with running a higher than needed load rated tire on a vehicle, such as running an E rated tire on a Wrangler. But there is an issue with running a C rated tire on a 2500 fullsize pickup. In that case a tire manufacturer may choose to only offer the higher rated E tire as you can technically use it on any vehicle, and many people don't care. Versus if they only offered a C rated tire you are limiting the market as they should only be installed on smaller/lighter vehicles.
 
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Yep! It's just easier and cheaper this way, you got it ?

There is no safety concern with running a higher than needed load rated tire on a vehicle, such as running an E rated tire on a Wrangler. But there is an issue with running a C rated tire on a 2500 fullsize pickup. In that case a tire manufacturer may choose to only offer the higher rated E tire as you can technically use it on any vehicle, and many people don't care. Versus if they only offered a C rated tire you are limiting the market as they should only be installed on smaller/lighter vehicles.
 

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I have 35s - BFG KO2s E's. On the road I can't tell a big difference between the 33s I had in C rated. On the rocks you can see the tire barely squishes.

I'm debating eventually going up to 37s and getting some C rated.
 
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I have 35s - BFG KO2s E's. On the road I can't tell a big difference between the 33s I had in C rated. On the rocks you can see the tire barely squishes.

I'm debating eventually going up to 37s and getting some C rated.
Same here, the noticeable difference was on the trail, not as much flexibility (squish) On the trails, I run they're fine. I didn't notice any difference on the road in-fact my jeep drives like a 4x4 go-kart with 33's pizza cutters, I love it!
 

LCW

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I went from 315/70R17 C KO2s (metric 35s basically) to 37x12.50R17 D KO2s. I’m pleased with how the 37 D’s are riding. Was expecting worse. But they aren’t harsh and have a bit more lateral stiffness which is nice.

Went with the 37 D’s after reading a guy’s post on this forum where he noticed the C actually has a narrower tread by about 3/8” and looked narrower than his 35s. Also said they felt squirmy. So he switched to D’s and liked them much better. I would concur with the D’s feeling good for ride but also stable at speed on the freeway or while cornering.
 

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So on a Rubicon 2 door what would be the recommendation? I assume that one would want to stay with a C- load tire because of the smaller/lighter overall vehicle compared to the unlimited.
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