LED Upgrades

[MoHeTow!]

Keep in mind, I purchased the version for the Sport, and it appears you have a Rubicon. It maybe a completely different experience. The halos required a separate power source, I used a simple fuse tap. If you've done that before, not an issue. The fogs required me to cut the factory harness on the Sport, the headlights were plug and play.

COOL THANKS SHOULD BE SIMILAR

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[TylerV76]

Don’t mind the boxes. Christmas was after our recycling day

I wonder if youre getting some reflections off the stuff in the field of view because there is some serious light spillage happening.

Theres even a random light spot towards the top of the fence on the left. But even above the hot spot, theres quite a bit spillage happening.

 

[Stuckinthesand]

I wonder if youre getting some reflections off the stuff in the field of view because there is some serious light spillage happening.

Theres even a random light spot towards the top of the fence on the left. But even above the hot spot, theres quite a bit spillage happening.

I’m pretty sure the top left is coming off my neighbors side door light. I think it’s just my fence showing the spillage. When I adjusted them off a brick wall there wasn’t anything above that main line. If I get a chance tomorrow night I’ll get a pic off the brick wall I used to adjust.

 

[TylerV76]

I’m pretty sure the top left is coming off my neighbors side door light. I think it’s just my fence showing the spillage. When I adjusted them off a brick wall there wasn’t anything above that main line. If I get a chance tomorrow night I’ll get a pic off the brick wall I used to adjust.

Thank you. I’m looking at the tinted version of these.

 

[blnewt]

Don’t mind the boxes. Christmas was after our recycling day

Thanks for that.

 

[CorvZ061]

No, a bulb replacement is not as good as a "good housing" replacement.

I put in a couple different bulbs, the Morimoto 2 Stroke and the SV4. The 2Stroke was so purple that it hurt my eyes. I sent the back the next day. The SV4 is bright, but they have "artifacts" above what should be a cutoff line. (that means a lot of glare for the oncoming drivers) LED bulbs in the OEM halogen reflector make for a lousy beam pattern. Looks good from the driver side just driving, but everyone else on the road pays the price. So, I'm still on the fence on what to do next.

From what I've read lately, the Oracle Oculus (with or without heated lenses) is a great beam pattern, with no artifacts above the very sharp and flat cutoff and has a wide usable pattern. My only other concern is the adjuster ease of access, since I like to adjust up and down when I change significant loading (especially with a very bright headlight). In my 14 GMC truck with 2016 OEM LED headlights, I've had people flash me, flip me off, and do a few different other things when my headlights were above normal height due to heavy loading on trips. So, it's important to me to be able to open the hood and stick a screwdriver in an adjuster without disassembling anything or a dirty lengthy process.

So, my considerations were/are: OEM LED housings, Oracle Oculus heated, DV8 (OEM clone), Morimoto LED projector retrofit.

Working backward up that list,

The Morimoto LED projectors provide a great beam and they use the OEM adjusters. See this thread (1) Retrofit Halogen Headlights | Jeep Wrangler Forums (JL / JLU) - Rubicon, Sahara, Sport, 4xe, 392 - JLwranglerforums.com
But, the negatives are: they are costly to have done, or labor intensive if you DIY. They also are 6300K color, which is too purple for me. Causes eye strain on long drives. They have a lot of external wiring and components. Warranty?

The DV8 OEM clone is a direct replacement plug n play, but for the halos. Attractive. You can see a review here. (1) DV8 LED Headlights | Jeep Wrangler Forums (JL / JLU) - Rubicon, Sahara, Sport, 4xe, 392 - JLwranglerforums.com
The negatives are that the beams on the pictures posted in the thread are tilted. The right side is so tilted the cutoff to the left portion of the beam rises well above the left headlight cutoff and into oncoming traffic. The left headlight shown is tilted the other direction. This means quality control isn't up to snuff, to me. 1 year warranty.

The Oracle Oculus complete housing replacement seems to be good quality and has excellent beam control, is DOT compliant. Some beam pattern pictures here Changing to LED headlights from the standard lights? | Jeep Wrangler Forums (JL / JLU) - Rubicon, Sahara, Sport, 4xe, 392 - JLwranglerforums.com
My concern is the difficulty in adjusting easily when I change loads. I need to look into this a bit more. It's also available in a heated lense for snow/ice accumulation prevention. That's a plus. 2 year warranty. That's also a great plus in the aftermarket arena of lights.

Of course, there's always the OEM LED housings. Pricey, but all well made. Likely well sealed against the elements, reliable, DOT compliant, easy to adjust, no external components. But it requires a flash or Taser to change the BCM to LED (IIRC). The beam pattern isn't the greatest and does have some artifacts above the cutoff. But there's a lot to be said about reliability on headlights, trust me on that. No real warranty that I know of.

I have the Oculus headlights. They have an extremely sharp cutoff, wide throw. Adjusting them is fairly easy with a Allen wrench, the one that comes with them is a little short though. My only ‘complaint’ is more of a getting used to them and that sharp cutoff. It’s pretty hilly here, when you’re going down a hill you can’t see what’s coming up because there is virtually no light abothe cut off.

Low beam

Low Beam down hill, the road immediately goes back up

Back up just after the signs

the thing not many show, comparison of low beam and high beam sitting still in the same place

 

[roaniecowpony]

I have the Oculus headlights. They have an extremely sharp cutoff, wide throw. Adjusting them is fairly easy with a Allen wrench, the one that comes with them is a little short though. My only ‘complaint’ is more of a getting used to them and that sharp cutoff. It’s pretty hilly here, when you’re going down a hill you can’t see what’s coming up because there is virtually no light abothe cut off.

Low beam

Low Beam down hill, the road immediately goes back up

Back up just after the signs

the thing not many show, comparison of low beam and high beam sitting still in the same place

Thanks for taking the time to share those pictures and your experience. These were on my list of candidates. I'm still not decided on what to do next. There have been some pretty emphatic negative comments about Oracle customer service posted. But the beam pattern is something that's not disputable.

I gave some thought into doing a retrofit into some halogen housings. I looked into the components. Looks like about $600 ish for the parts from TheRetrofitShop for Morimoto LED projectors and the necessary high beam switching control and ballasts. The main negatives to me are all the electrical components and connectors. Each component and connector has a failure rate. The more components and connectors, the higher the likelyhood of a failure. Then there's the fact that you have to mount all that stuff somewhere. I went thru this on HID retrofits years ago.

I'm leaning toward just putting in OEM LED headlights. They have a lot going for them; reliability, compatibility, weather proofing, and location of adjusters.

 

[blnewt]

I have the Oculus headlights. They have an extremely sharp cutoff, wide throw. Adjusting them is fairly easy with a Allen wrench, the one that comes with them is a little short though. My only ‘complaint’ is more of a getting used to them and that sharp cutoff. It’s pretty hilly here, when you’re going down a hill you can’t see what’s coming up because there is virtually no light abothe cut off.

Low beam

Low Beam down hill, the road immediately goes back up

Back up just after the signs

the thing not many show, comparison of low beam and high beam sitting still in the same place

Thanks for the good pic assortment, they look identical (the output & cutoff) to the Rough Country projectors I just bought. Yours even have the same step notches in the cutoff that mine do
I found that using 5mm hex sockets work best for adjusting them, don't even need the ratchet, just the socket and a small extension on the drivers side, and just the socket on the passenger side.
I've done a few height adjustments, started out too high and was getting flashed, then went way too low and barely lit up 15 feet in front, then split the difference and it's real close to where they need to be.
The upper blue edge is pretty distinct and takes some getting used to, my Infinity G w/ theretrofitsource.com lenses had a very similar blue edge, but much thinner and a perfectly flat cutoff, no steps.

Overall I'm very happy w/ the lights, just takes some fine adjusting and some time getting used to the "new" output.
I would by them again And they have a 3yr warranty if you buy them through Rough Country.

Thanks for taking the time to share those pictures and your experience. These were on my list of candidates. I'm still not decided on what to do next. There have been some pretty emphatic negative comments about Oracle customer service posted. But the beam pattern is something that's not disputable.

I gave some thought into doing a retrofit into some halogen housings. I looked into the components. Looks like about $600 ish for the parts from TheRetrofitShop for Morimoto LED projectors and the necessary high beam switching control and ballasts. The main negatives to me are all the electrical components and connectors. Each component and connector has a failure rate. The more components and connectors, the higher the likelyhood of a failure. Then there's the fact that you have to mount all that stuff somewhere. I went thru this on HID retrofits years ago.

I'm leaning toward just putting in OEM LED headlights. They have a lot going for them; reliability, compatibility, weather proofing, and location of adjusters.

Can't go wrong w/ OEM, and those Morimotos are sweet. There's at least one member over here that went the Morimoto route, can't seem to find that link though. IMO those would be the best way to go if you have experience putting those together.

I haven't seen Morimotos in person but if they are truly as good as a Bi-Xenon then that would be a winner I would think.

 

[OldBlue]

No, a bulb replacement is not as good as a "good housing" replacement.

I put in a couple different bulbs, the Morimoto 2 Stroke and the SV4. The 2Stroke was so purple that it hurt my eyes. I sent the back the next day. The SV4 is bright, but they have "artifacts" above what should be a cutoff line. (that means a lot of glare for the oncoming drivers) LED bulbs in the OEM halogen reflector make for a lousy beam pattern. Looks good from the driver side just driving, but everyone else on the road pays the price. So, I'm still on the fence on what to do next.

From what I've read lately, the Oracle Oculus (with or without heated lenses) is a great beam pattern, with no artifacts above the very sharp and flat cutoff and has a wide usable pattern. My only other concern is the adjuster ease of access, since I like to adjust up and down when I change significant loading (especially with a very bright headlight). In my 14 GMC truck with 2016 OEM LED headlights, I've had people flash me, flip me off, and do a few different other things when my headlights were above normal height due to heavy loading on trips. So, it's important to me to be able to open the hood and stick a screwdriver in an adjuster without disassembling anything or a dirty lengthy process.

So, my considerations were/are: OEM LED housings, Oracle Oculus heated, DV8 (OEM clone), Morimoto LED projector retrofit.

Working backward up that list,

The Morimoto LED projectors provide a great beam and they use the OEM adjusters. See this thread (1) Retrofit Halogen Headlights | Jeep Wrangler Forums (JL / JLU) - Rubicon, Sahara, Sport, 4xe, 392 - JLwranglerforums.com
But, the negatives are: they are costly to have done, or labor intensive if you DIY. They also are 6300K color, which is too purple for me. Causes eye strain on long drives. They have a lot of external wiring and components. Warranty?

The DV8 OEM clone is a direct replacement plug n play, but for the halos. Attractive. You can see a review here. (1) DV8 LED Headlights | Jeep Wrangler Forums (JL / JLU) - Rubicon, Sahara, Sport, 4xe, 392 - JLwranglerforums.com
The negatives are that the beams on the pictures posted in the thread are tilted. The right side is so tilted the cutoff to the left portion of the beam rises well above the left headlight cutoff and into oncoming traffic. The left headlight shown is tilted the other direction. This means quality control isn't up to snuff, to me. 1 year warranty.

The Oracle Oculus complete housing replacement seems to be good quality and has excellent beam control, is DOT compliant. Some beam pattern pictures here Changing to LED headlights from the standard lights? | Jeep Wrangler Forums (JL / JLU) - Rubicon, Sahara, Sport, 4xe, 392 - JLwranglerforums.com
My concern is the difficulty in adjusting easily when I change loads. I need to look into this a bit more. It's also available in a heated lense for snow/ice accumulation prevention. That's a plus. 2 year warranty. That's also a great plus in the aftermarket arena of lights.

Of course, there's always the OEM LED housings. Pricey, but all well made. Likely well sealed against the elements, reliable, DOT compliant, easy to adjust, no external components. But it requires a flash or Taser to change the BCM to LED (IIRC). The beam pattern isn't the greatest and does have some artifacts above the cutoff. But there's a lot to be said about reliability on headlights, trust me on that. No real warranty that I know of.

Great info. Thank you.

 

[cosine]

i'm running supernova v4 led bulbs for the head / fog lights and love them. the led bulbs fits nicely in the housing with the dust covers on.

 

[MoHeTow!]

Installed new led headlights and fogs now Driver side high beam blinks 3 times then goes out and will not come back on until turn off ignition and restart then does the same thing so swapped the headlight to Pass side and does same everything else works OK, any ideas? Bad lamp or need to change with tazer to LED? If I had one I would try it.

 

[Stuckinthesand]

Installed new led headlights and fogs now Driver side high beam blinks 3 times then goes out and will not come back on until turn off ignition and restart then does the same thing so swapped the headlight to Pass side and does same everything else works OK, any ideas? Bad lamp or need to change with tazer to LED? If I had one I would try it.

You need to change the settings to LED. Your CAN system is seeing less voltage draw due to the LED light and you should also be getting a bulb out message on your EVIC. You can get the OBD JScan app and an OBD reader cheaper than tazer if that is all you are using it for. I use JScan and changed all my settings to LED when I swapped them out and haven’t had any issues. You can use it to change tire size settings as well.

 

[MoHeTow!]

You need to change the settings to LED. Your CAN system is seeing less voltage draw due to the LED light and you should also be getting a bulb out message on your EVIC. You can get the OBD JScan app and an OBD reader cheaper than tazer if that is all you are using it for. I use JScan and changed all my settings to LED when I swapped them out and haven’t had any issues. You can use it to change tire size settings as well.

Cool Thanks, which one do you use theres a bunch of them. It's still strange that only 1 of the high beams is affected and everything else works OK but I had a hunch it was something like that.

 

[Stuckinthesand]

Cool Thanks, which one do you use theres a bunch of them. It's still strange that only 1 of the high beams is affected and everything else works OK but I had a hunch it was something like that.

I use JScan with this OBD reader:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XGB4873/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These cables:

https://www.amazon.com/sportuli-Chr...5e4e9&pd_rd_wg=KrSsL&pd_rd_i=B07W4YF2H7&psc=1

That 1 light is probably just below the minimum amount of volts the CAN needs to see to not pop up a bulb out. LED’s don’t necessarily pull the same voltage on each light. The voltage will be close but it can be +\- from each other.

 

[mul1gan]

Nice, the RC and Oculus looks very bright.. Not sure if this has been said or not but are the aftermarket LEDs brighter than the factory

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