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Knock in rear with Dana 44

Carlton

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If everyone has stock arms my guess is it may actually be the pinion angle. Maybe it is more sensitive on the JL.
 

D Arnett

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Does anyone that experience this have aftermarket rear control arms or is everyone stock? I have stock for now.
Stock. With a rockkrawler lift in garage. Get this issue solved first then I'll proceed on with the lift will keep everyone updated as this issue moves on
 

DirtRoad1981

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RC 2.5 coil lift with Fox shocks
I’ve got the same setup and don’t have a knock. Check and double check everything was re Installed and tightened down. Sounds like the driveline at the ujoint if it’s knocking metal on metal. I’ve been running mine since 1500 miles I have 8000 now no issues at all
 

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JMONEZ

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Dealer ordered rear ring/pinion to resolve our clunk on decel, no idea yet if that will repair it, parts still on order. I suspect it’s likely the driveline or an axle problem, but we’ll see.
 

XJrider

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Dealer ordered rear ring/pinion to resolve our clunk on decel, no idea yet if that will repair it, parts still on order. I suspect it’s likely the driveline or an axle problem, but we’ll see.
Swapping your ring and pinion is NOT going to change anything as far as a clunking noise. Once the lash is set at factory its perminetly shimmed. The length of the rear driveshaft in 4door jeeps make pinion angle mostly a non issue especially on the rinky dink 2” lifts you guys are running. Put your truck on a lift and see if you can duplicate. Check your shock mounts and torque on control arms.
 

stil2low

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Crawl under and see if your driveshaft has been making contact with the fuel tank skid
 

TJEli

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Do you guys all have the auto? If you do, drivetrain noise from the rear is normal under the conditions you are describing. Some hear it, some don't. If you are SURE your noise just started after the lift and it is consistent in time and pitch and you are running stock wheels, make sure the extended rear swaybar links are not hitting your wheels.

-Eli
 

Messup

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I had this issue and the dealer replaced my rear axle assembly (housing), reusing all internals. Almost 2k miles later no noise, my rear is the M220 if that helps.
 

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ebelp

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Have you guys double/triple checked the swabar endlink bolts? If those are not tightened to spec, they will 100% make a knocking noise that you can hear and feel. I'd jack the rear up and put it on jack stands...then raise and lower either the drivers side or passenger side tire with your jack while checking the endlinks. If you see any lateral play, it means they need to be tightened.
 

JMONEZ

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Have you guys double/triple checked the swabar endlink bolts? If those are not tightened to spec, they will 100% make a knocking noise that you can hear and feel. I'd jack the rear up and put it on jack stands...then raise and lower either the drivers side or passenger side tire with your jack while checking the endlinks. If you see any lateral play, it means they need to be tightened.
That shouldn’t cause a rotational clunking noise though right?
 

JMONEZ

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I had this issue and the dealer replaced my rear axle assembly (housing), reusing all internals. Almost 2k miles later no noise, my rear is the M220 if that helps.
What did they determine was cause of failure by needing to replace housing and reuse internal components? Thanks
 

ebelp

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That shouldn’t cause a rotational clunking noise though right?
No, not rotational clunking. But definitely a clunk when accelerating from a dead stop and also when hitting bumps in the road.
 

Messup

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Did you have a lift installed? I didn’t have this until after my lift was installed. I installed a JKS 2.5.
I had the Fabtech 3" kit installed

What did they determine was cause of failure by needing to replace housing and reuse internal components? Thanks
I never got a reason only that the local mechanic opened a "star case" and was told to replace the rear differential assembly.
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