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JL windshield replacement - absolutely does not need ACC/Safety System calibration

LagunaJim1

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This is discussed/mentioned often, but I wanted to post simply and definitively that if you have a JL (or JT?) with the front ACC/safety sensor behind the windshield, you DO NOT need to pay anybody to recalibrate the system after windshield replacement.

If the shop you get a quote from insists on the calibration, absolutely go elsewhere. They are wrong. The windshield database they use may tell them calibration is required -- but it's wrong too. If they want you to sign something that says you refuse calibration, go ahead.

If insurance is paying 100% for the replacement and the calibration, then sure...

Source: had my windshield replaced two months ago, refused calibration, everything working perfectly. My installer told me in the 1 out of 100 times it would need calibration that the system would throw a fault code right away.

Paid $630 all-in for OEM windshield replacement at my location in southern Illinois. Aftermarket would've been $350, and he advised me to take the aftermarket -- but I sprung for the OEM since I was skipping the stupid calibration cost. Safelite quote was $944 with mandatory calibration - would've need local manager to approve skipping the calibration.
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Heimkehr

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I don't know, so I'll ask:

My JLU doesn't have ACC, whereas my wife's Honda does have it, via the small plastic box located directly above the rearview mirror. What's done during recalibration to justify the related expense? Is something being re-aimed, etc.? Just want to know for future reference.
 
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LagunaJim1

LagunaJim1

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I don't know, so I'll ask:

My JLU doesn't have ACC, whereas my wife's Honda does have it, via the small plastic box located directly above the rearview mirror. What's done during recalibration to justify the related expense? Is something being re-aimed, etc.? Just want to know for future reference.
The reason Jeeps don't need the calibration is that the sensor is NOT attached to the glass in any way - it's mounted to the body of the Jeep just behind the windshield. I believe most vehicles it is mounted (glued) to the windshield itself, so it's impossible not to move it when replacing the glass.

Calibration involves plugging a computer/laptop/tablet into the car's diagnostic port and running a program on the system that adjusts the software to the new actual positioning of the sensor after the windshield replacement. Some cars it's just done stationary, other cars require the technician to drive the car around for a couple miles with the computer attached. In any event, it's either a 5 minute or 30 minute process max I'm told -- which is why $400 or more is such a rip (even if they pay a fee for each use of the calibration software).
 

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The reason Jeeps don't need the calibration is that the sensor is NOT attached to the glass in any way - it's mounted to the body of the Jeep just behind the windshield. I believe most vehicles it is mounted (glued) to the windshield itself, so it's impossible not to move it when replacing the glass.

Calibration involves plugging a computer/laptop/tablet into the car's diagnostic port and running a program on the system that adjusts the software to the new actual positioning of the sensor after the windshield replacement. Some cars it's just done stationary, other cars require the technician to drive the car around for a couple miles with the computer attached. In any event, it's either a 5 minute or 30 minute process max I'm told -- which is why $400 or more is such a rip (even if they pay a fee for each use of the calibration software).
At our local Safelite, I was discussing this procedure with a tech. The vehicle is parked in front of a couple of stands with crosshairs on them. Computer adjusts to the crosshairs in less time than it takes to place the stands and plug the computer into the OBD port. The drive is only done on some vehicles to make sure it doesn’t throw a code afterwards.
 

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At our local Safelite, I was discussing this procedure with a tech. The vehicle is parked in front of a couple of stands with crosshairs on them. Computer adjusts to the crosshairs in less time than it takes to place the stands and plug the computer into the OBD port. The drive is only done on some vehicles to make sure it doesn’t throw a code afterwards.
And none of that is required with our vehicles.

Vehicles where the system is attached to the windshield? Yes. Ours? Nope.
 

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DonH63

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We have three Jeeps: Grand Cherokee, Wagoneer, and Wrangler. The GC and Wagoneer require calibration as the sensor is mounted on the windshield; the Wrangler does not as it is fixed to the window frame and should stay in place. When I asked, our local Safelite rep said it was recommended, in case the sensor was knocked during windshield replacement, but not required for the Wrangler. Our insurance pays for it so I'd probably let them do it, but at least here it's just a matter of telling them "no" for the Wrangler.
 

DrugDealr

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can confirm. just had mine replaced 3 days ago, got right on the highway and used ACC in Houston traffic no problem. I did get OEM glass tho, not sure if experience would vary with aftermarket.

It did on my Audi. Couldn’t get the car to calibrate until safelite tossed in OEM glass.
 
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LagunaJim1

LagunaJim1

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my tech was so sure I wouldn’t need calibration that he said if I took the aftermarket glass and the ACC complained he would consider the glass defective and replace it again.

Apparently cheaper glass can sometimes be distorted. I went with the OEM for a greater level of certainty that all would be well.

Of course we could all be chumps and the non-OEM glass comes off the same assembly line as the OEM.
 

kah.mun.rah

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I was told that the thickness of the glass and/or thickness of the sealant can vary which could throw the sensors off. I signed the waiver to not do, and like you, took the chance. I didn't have it calibrated and it works fine (with 2 different windshield replacements).
 

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Safelite refused to waive the last time until I told her it was lifted and likely wouldn't calibrate (tech made me talk to some regional rep), she finally gave in.

It was way easier the first time, I'm sure this is a huge overpriced money maker for them. I'm sure they've been directed to fight for it.
 

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Safelite refused to waive the last time until I told her it was lifted and likely wouldn't calibrate (tech made me talk to some regional rep), she finally gave in.

It was way easier the first time, I'm sure this is a huge overpriced money maker for them. I'm sure they've been directed to fight for it.
Hundreds of $$$ (depending on model) for a few minutes time is beyond ridiculous. It’s even worse than the nitrogen tire fill scam.

I’m surprised there hasn’t been a class action lawsuit filed yet for grossly overcharging customers.
 
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LagunaJim1

LagunaJim1

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I was told that the thickness of the glass and/or thickness of the sealant can vary which could throw the sensors off.
The reason I didn't buy that line is that our windshields fold down - surely the sensor can't be so sensitive that a 1mm or 2mm difference in glass placement would throw the system off.

But this is why I opted to go with the OEM replacement glass not aftermarket, on the idea that *perhaps* the manufacturing tolerances & quality is slightly more stringent with OEM.

This thread has received plenty of comments - not one has said it turned out calibration was needed after all. If insurance is paying, of course let them go to town, but if self-pay . . .
 
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LagunaJim1

LagunaJim1

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I’m surprised there hasn’t been a class action lawsuit filed yet for grossly overcharging customers.
I don't think you can sue someone for their price list - you vote with your feet: don't like their pricing/terms go elsewhere.

I got a quote from Safelite, but opted to use a local installer instead. I actually telephoned the nearby Chrysler Jeep dealer and asked their service department who they use for windshields - he gave me the referral, and the guy was great.
 

kah.mun.rah

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The reason I didn't buy that line is that our windshields fold down - surely the sensor can't be so sensitive that a 1mm or 2mm difference in glass placement would throw the system off.

But this is why I opted to go with the OEM replacement glass not aftermarket, on the idea that *perhaps* the manufacturing tolerances & quality is slightly more stringent with OEM.

This thread has received plenty of comments - not one has said it turned out calibration was needed after all. If insurance is paying, of course let them go to town, but if self-pay . . .
I agree and found a place that would let me opt out. Safelite wouldn't budge so I went with Windshield Hub, $400.
 

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First windshield replacement Safelight said it had to be calibrated. Insurance replacement without out of pocket cost so I let them, even though I explained it wasn't attached.
Subsequent windshield replacements Safelight has not tried to calibrate it. Seems like they had to learn.
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