Ideal tire size..

[AcesandEights]

... What's an ideal tire size to go off roading but still handle and drive well on the highway?

Would 35's be ideal or 37's?

The 4xe Rubi comes stock with the ideal tire size.

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[Zacreth]

As others have said, it really depends on what trails you are running. Can you give us some examples? What is your experience with four wheeling?

I think others have given general advice, which is fine -- but one thing that I didn't do when I bought my first Jeep that I should have, was simply just go use it and figure out what was needed, instead of the other way around.

The stock Rubi is pretty damn stout from the factory, and what you will need to upgrade to make it confidently through trails will depend on experience and trail difficulty. That could vary from nothing to a lot. I wheeled my '19 JLUR bone stock (no lift, 33" KO2 tires) through most of Moab's trails before upgrading it, even some 7's. While I used the skids here/there, that's kind of the point of having them.

When I had my Tacoma I wanted to go ride some trails until I was told I wouldn't be able to unless I was 35" or higher plus other gear. Some trails for example is the Sunflower Mine, Crown King, and others. Just a sense to enjoy the vehicle and its capabilities. As for experience I have little since I just started the last 8 months and it's been easy trails, enjoying the views, using a drone with a little scraping here and there on sliders.

I would like to do Moab soon and other harder trails around Sedona that I watched a few videos on YouTube that some Jeeps did that my Taco couldn't do.

Additionally, besides the benefits of going on 37", I like the look overall of being taller as well...

 

[AcesandEights]

...

Additionally, besides the benefits of going on 37", I like the look overall of being taller as well...

Then stop at nothing less than 37" tires.

 

[Jamrock]

If that is what you want go for it. It is your Jeep. Just understand what is involved and plan accordingly. Find a good off road shop that can assist you with the process.

You also have the option of going to 35's and moving to 37's when they wear out.

At the end of the day, if you really want 37's, you will never be happy with 35's.

 

[Zandcwhite]

The “37’s only gain you 1” of clearance over 35’s” comments are hilarious. The rubicon comes with a 33”, so 35’s only gain you 1” of clearance over stock. On their line of reasoning, does 1” not matter? Why not run stock? With that line of thought, 37’s GAIN you twice as much clearance over stock. I know I might be biased, but having wheeled for over a year on 37’s, 3k+ trail miles, 10k+ road trip miles, and serving as the wife’s daily driver, I say go big. With all the extra low end torque of the electric motor you won’t need a regear in the least bit. Even with the 2.0t alone I’ve never felt like she needed lower gears.

 

[Shaved Ice]

rule of thumb I have always heard: The perfect balance of on/off-road maneuverability lies at a measured tire diameter that is double the wheel diameter.

 

[guarnibl]

When I had my Tacoma I wanted to go ride some trails until I was told I wouldn't be able to unless I was 35" or higher plus other gear. Some trails for example is the Sunflower Mine, Crown King, and others. Just a sense to enjoy the vehicle and its capabilities. As for experience I have little since I just started the last 8 months and it's been easy trails, enjoying the views, using a drone with a little scraping here and there on sliders.

I would like to do Moab soon and other harder trails around Sedona that I watched a few videos on YouTube that some Jeeps did that my Taco couldn't do.

Additionally, besides the benefits of going on 37", I like the look overall of being taller as well...

Sedona can be done stock.

I've run Sunflower and it's pretty overgrown. Expect lots of pin striping that you will be showing off proudly for the rest of your Jeep ownership You might not care but it's worth mentioning. I probably wouldn't run Sunflower w/o a lift in a four door. A two door might be a little easier to line pick with just 35's and maybe a budget boost.

Based on what you want to run, I think 37's (i.e., KO2s) and a medium lift (3.5" or so) you would be in good shape. Keeps you light weight as well and I don't think you'll need to go re-gear. Just don't add a ton of weight to the vehicle if you can avoid it.

Other things I'd invest in would be better rock rail protection, aluminum skids, and recovery gear. Winch is nice to have, but probably not necessary right away. If you go to Moab I'd have one if you want to run some of the harder trails (i.e., Pritchett).

Oh, powertank is nice too, though if you're going to stick to 37" KO2s, ARB dual compressor does just fine.

 

[BDinTX]

The “37’s only gain you 1” of clearance over 35’s” comments are hilarious. The rubicon comes with a 33”, so 35’s only gain you 1” of clearance over stock. On their line of reasoning, does 1” not matter? Why not run stock? With that line of thought, 37’s GAIN you twice as much clearance over stock. I know I might be biased, but having wheeled for over a year on 37’s, 3k+ trail miles, 10k+ road trip miles, and serving as the wife’s daily driver, I say go big. With all the extra low end torque of the electric motor you won’t need a regear in the least bit. Even with the 2.0t alone I’ve never felt like she needed lower gears.

I'm sorry, were you referring to the hilarity in my comment? When you take my entire statement into account rather than the small snippet you seem fixated on it is still factual. Only the first and last sentence are my opinion. If money isn't a concern then go all in on the big tires.

"Personally, I think 35”s are the sweet spot. You’re less likely to need a regear and you can still fit the spare on your tailgate with a reinforced tire carrier and the factory bumper. Going to a 37 only gains you ~1 inch additional clearance over a 35 but costs a bunch more. At that point you may as well jump to 38 or 39

Although a 37+ does look badass…"

 

[Zandcwhite]

I'm sorry, were you referring to the hilarity in my comment? When you take my entire statement into account rather than the small snippet you seem fixated on it is still factual. Only the first and last sentence are my opinion. If money isn't a concern then go all in on the big tires.

"Personally, I think 35”s are the sweet spot. You’re less likely to need a regear and you can still fit the spare on your tailgate with a reinforced tire carrier and the factory bumper. Going to a 37 only gains you ~1 inch additional clearance over a 35 but costs a bunch more. At that point you may as well jump to 38 or 39

Although a 37+ does look badass…"

You weren't the only one with an "only an inch" comment which is why I didn't reply to you specifically. As far as "costs a bunch more", the spare tire relocation bracket was $120 and we already had the Mopar tailgate reinforcement on the jeep (I'd want it for a heavy 35" anyway). You absolutely don't need to regear a 4xe with all that low end torque the electric motor adds. Obviously tire for tire a 37 will cost a bit more than a 35, but the op was already planning a lift. The only added cost of 37's is the relocation bracket at that point. Cheap as far as the overall build goes.

 

[gato]

When in doubt on sizes (except for boobs), split the difference.

The debate is always between 35s and 37s as the most popular for JL 4-doors with a ˜2-3" lift.

I say the right answer then would be 36s. But they don't make 36s in 17" wheels and popular widths.

Oh wait. They do. It is called the BFG KO2 37x12.5 in C or D rating. As light or lighter than most 35s. Slightly bigger than most 35s. Winter/Snow rated. Quiet. Drives great on the highway.

If you want one that is slightly heavier, has no snow rating, but perform better on the rocks and is slightly bigger (still more of a 36"), BFG KM3 in 37x12.5.

 

[Zacreth]

When in doubt on sizes (except for boobs), split the difference.

The debate is always between 35s and 37s as the most popular for JL 4-doors with a ˜2-3" lift.

I say the right answer then would be 36s. But they don't make 36s in 17" wheels and popular widths.

Oh wait. They do. It is called the BFG KO2 37x12.5 in C or D rating. As light or lighter than most 35s. Slightly bigger than most 35s. Winter/Snow rated. Quiet. Drives great on the highway.

If you want one that is slightly heavier, has no snow rating, but perform better on the rocks and is slightly bigger (still more of a 36"), BFG KM3 in 37x12.5.

That was what I was leaning towards since there was a lot of talk about 37" C load. I would assume it would be lighter than other 37" as well....

 

[BDinTX]

I wasn't taking tire cost into account although that probably shouldn't be discounted. I was only talking about a new bumper with built in tire carrier that is rated to carry the weight of a 37" or larger tire. While you can run a relocation bracket, you can also buckle your rear door by overloading it.

Honestly I would like to go to 37"s myself. I just think the cost to jump from a 35" to a 37" (with the extra stuff) doesn't warrant that small of a height increase especially when there are few trails that I would want to do that a stock Rubicon couldn't do on stock 33"s.

Obviously we have different opinions on what is the best tire size is. That's cool, lets just try to share opinions in a friendly manner.

 

[guarnibl]

I wasn't taking tire cost into account although that probably shouldn't be discounted. I was only talking about a new bumper with built in tire carrier that is rated to carry the weight of a 37" or larger tire. While you can run a relocation bracket, you can also buckle your rear door by overloading it.

Honestly I would like to go to 37"s myself. I just think the cost to jump from a 35" to a 37" (with the extra stuff) doesn't warrant that small of a height increase especially when there are few trails that I would want to do that a stock Rubicon couldn't do on stock 33"s.

Obviously we have different opinions on what is the best tire size is. That's cool, lets just try to share opinions in a friendly manner.

For KO2's, $200 difference per tire to go from 315's to 37's. That said, I was able to fit it on my stock JLUR bumper without an issue and at no additional cost. I did have the reinforcement bracket from the factory. These tires (KO2's in 37's) are 4 pounds heavier than the stock MT option, and 11 pounds heavier than the stock AT option. Both options are lighter than all MT's I could find in 35" size.

No additional cost for me besides just the tires on a JLUR for 35's vs 37's, which -- is still material.

 

[gato]

That was what I was leaning towards since there was a lot of talk about 37" C load. I would assume it would be lighter than other 37" as well....

Both the C and D rated 37" KO2s are much lighter than most popular 35s (Nittos, Toyos, etc).

D is slightly heavier than C, supposedly with a slightly stronger sidewall. I have the Ds and can barely tell the difference in performance with my 8AT, 2.0 Rubicon. A 6MT 3.6 may feel a regear need. Not the 8AT.

 

[Zandcwhite]

For KO2's, $200 difference per tire to go from 315's to 37's. That said, I was able to fit it on my stock JLUR bumper without an issue and at no additional cost. I did have the reinforcement bracket from the factory. These tires (KO2's in 37's) are 4 pounds heavier than the stock MT option, and 11 pounds heavier than the stock AT option. Both options are lighter than all MT's I could find in 35" size.

No additional cost for me besides just the tires on a JLUR for 35's vs 37's, which -- is still material.

I hope you didn’t pay an extra $200/tire… should be more like $50/tire difference.

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