Icon Recon Pro or Method 703 Bead Grip

[failsafe306]

I have the Method 702s in bronze and run 10psi on the trail. I would never want to touch up the well earned rock rash either.

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[Bandana]

I've been running method 701s for five years with no issue on or off-road. I usually run between 10-15 PSI depending on the terrain. Plenty of rock rash, but I consider them to be souvenirs.

 

[Rogersocal]

so whats the difference between 701 and 703? All i really see is the 701 is 26lbs and the 703 is 31 lbs... Anything else?

 

[Deleted User 38384]

I had posted a video of Outdoor Auto running the Methods at 0 PSI.

I'm thinking @Tredsdert has those Icons, where it was about $150 per tire for mounting. Just something else to consider.

@SLTX_Rubi
What @Ratbert said is true. A lot of shops will charge you a premium price for having to deal with the beadlock bolts or the interlock bolts with the icons. I myself have developed a way to replace the bolts in the icon wheels and and save myself $540 on a set of 4 wheels. It's definitely not for everybody though, however I can say it does in fact work. I'm currently driving around in my Wrangler with Icon Rebound Pro (non-interlock) wheels.

If you're interested in that I can send you the link to that post or I think I have a video or two on my YouTube channel.

I forget who but someone on here told me that NTB will mount beadlock wheels at no extra cost. So if that's your thing, you can always look them up.

Only real downside of running the bolts non interlock style, is that where I get the bolts from, they don't have the protective coating that stops them from rusting like the ones that come with your wheels do. I could probably get them coated in something, but why bother? I only run them like this for a month max while I am in the process of getting new tires mounted.

You got to pick you up some o-rings from Amazon if you're going to play this game though.

 

[JP52]

I have the recon pros and I bought them in part because I though the rash ring would protect the actual wheel. I don't care about scratches, I just thought it would be good to have some extra protection for the wheels like the beauty ring on my stock XR wheels provide. Well, I have been really disappointed by the rash rings. They break off really easily if you actually hit them on the rocks. They are made of very brittle cast aluminum and the way they attach there is a slight gap so when you hit against a rock they break right off. One trip through the Rubicon and I lost 4 of them off of two wheels. Now I only have enough left to cover 2 of my 5 wheels. When you try to unbolt what's left of the rash ring you will round out some of the hex holes. I found that you pound a star drive bit in you can get them out. After I took mine out I put bolts with star drive in their place. I did not bother to replace the rings because they are pretty much useless. Also, during one trip some dirt got in between the tire and the wheel so it had a slow leak. My shop took them off and remounted them which fixed the leak. I assume when I was aired down the tire could separate a bit from the wheel when it was pressed from the side and some dirt got in there. I wonder if a bead grip wheel would be less prone to that. If I was buying wheels today I would get the rebound pros or the method bead grip.

 

[SLTX_Rubi]

@Ratbert Thanks for all of that info. I will think about that, but hopefully should not be swapping out tires very often, unless someone wants me demo a few, incase anyone is watching. My decision would have already been made if the Icon Recons came in bronze. Maybe I can use the aluminum halo rings to break up the black wheel.

 

[SLTX_Rubi]

I have the recon pros and I bought them in part because I though the rash ring would protect the actual wheel. I don't care about scratches, I just thought it would be good to have some extra protection for the wheels like the beauty ring on my stock XR wheels provide. Well, I have been really disappointed by the rash rings. They break off really easily if you actually hit them on the rocks. They are made of very brittle cast aluminum and the way they attach there is a slight gap so when you hit against a rock they break right off. One trip through the Rubicon and I lost 4 of them off of two wheels. Now I only have enough left to cover 2 of my 5 wheels. When you try to unbolt what's left of the rash ring you will round out some of the hex holes. I found that you pound a star drive bit in you can get them out. After I took mine out I put bolts with star drive in their place. I did not bother to replace the rings because they are pretty much useless. Also, during one trip some dirt got in between the tire and the wheel so it had a slow leak. My shop took them off and remounted them which fixed the leak. I assume when I was aired down the tire could separate a bit from the wheel when it was pressed from the side and some dirt got in there. I wonder if a bead grip wheel would be less prone to that. If I was buying wheels today I would get the rebound pros or the method bead grip.

Wow, I thought the halo rings would be a bit stronger. Definitely leaning towards the 703s now.

 

[SLTX_Rubi]

so whats the difference between 701 and 703? All i really see is the 701 is 26lbs and the 703 is 31 lbs... Anything else?

The 701s have less spokes and are flatter. The 703s have more spokes and have slight concave towards the center so the lug area is not as pronounced. That is what draws me to the 703s.

 

[arnie_mueller]

I have the Icon Rebound (non pro). I wish I would have bought Black Rhino or Method. I was stupid and bought the minimum size width and Icon had them. I would go 9" wide with a real stiff tire going forward. My tires are wearing poorly because of the narrow rim and a light Jeep. I go down to 12psi when I wheel and haven't de-beaded yet.

 

[Dusty Dude]

I bought the Rebound Pro’s before they had the removable rash rings and love them. The only issue I had was when the Discount Tire guys tried to use my torque wrench like a breaker bar. I had to teach 3 guys how to use an adjustable torque wrench There was no upcharge for mounting the tires because I had already prepped the pins with anti seize and had upgraded the O-rings with Viton o-rings.

Six BOH trails (and a few others) later, zero issues.

 

[JPAloha]

@Ratbert My decision would have already been made if the Icon Recons came in bronze.

Why not have a local wheel place refinish them to your preferred colour then? They’d also supply some extra paint for touch ups.

 

[SLTX_Rubi]

Maybe the Rebounds make more sense after @JP52 stated how fragile the aluminum rings are. That is why I am leaning towards the Methods.

 

[21JLURDG]

I am trying to decide between the Icon Recon Pro (Satin Black) or Method 703 Bead Grip (Bronze). I have listed the Pros and Cons of each as I see them. Let me know of anything I missed or personnel experiences.

2021 JLURD stock height with 35' tires. Distant future move up to a 2.5/3.5 lift with 37s.
Sting Gray with black top
Daily driver with some weekend excursions, Texas rock crawling and/or sandy beaches.
I will be at the Texas Spur Jeep Jamboree in March, so I need the new wheels by then to beat them up.

I also have a 2021 JLURD. When deciding on wheels, it also came down to the ICON Rebound Pro vs MRW Bead Grip. I went with the MRW due to the greater backspacing (-12mm) to clear the suspension components and give me more stability on sidehills, weight, and knowing several people who were happy with their bead grips.

Other things I considered are that both should do a good enough job of retaining the bead at high-single digit psi. Remember that beads get “glued” to wheels the longer they’re attached. Old tires (>10 years) are sometimes a PITA to remove from a wheel. My biggest concern now is spinning the tire on the wheel (therefore ripping the valve stem off) at low pressures while applying lots of torque at low RPM as our diesels are prone to do. I don’t think either offers any more protection, and not as good as a true beadlock.

As for how low you can go, check out the recent ads from MRW on the February 2025 issue of OVR Magazine. I combined them in the picture below. I read that as MRW saying you are safe going as low as 8 psi.

I did go with the 701 instead of the other Bead Grips because the tire valve stem is more protected. Take a look where it’s located on both wheels. I’ve seen several flats on the trail due to valve stems being cut on the rocks.

As for rock rash, I’m not a fan of it. I periodically hit them with black paint but I’m getting lazy. I’m considering having the outer wheel polished to bare metal.
My pictures are with 3.5” (really closer to 2.5”) lift, 37x12.50R17, MRW 701 17x9/-12mm.

 

[gek]

I have wheeled with several people that have 703s and none of them have had any issues with their valve stems getting caught or popping a bead. I think 8lbs is the lowest I have seen them run. I have Method 316s(non bead grips). I have run them at 12lbs, but normally run 15lbs and have had no issues. My valve stems are out similarly to the 703 and have had no issues with them either.

I have never met anyone displeased with their Methods, my next set will be Bead Grips.

 

[autotragic]

I have wheeled with several people that have 703s and none of them have had any issues with their valve stems getting caught or popping a bead. I think 8lbs is the lowest I have seen them run. I have Method 316s(non bead grips). I have run them at 12lbs, but normally run 15lbs and have had no issues. My valve stems are out similarly to the 703 and have had no issues with them either.

I have never met anyone displeased with their Methods, my next set will be Bead Grips.

I'm just commenting to vote for bronze wheels on sting-gray. Although I might be biased... I was pretty dead set on 701s but have since decided I want to get 703s but I will say the zero offset 8.5s seem like a better idea. The slightly narrower width will do an even better job holding your beads too.

The black wheels just don't even look good.

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