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Help choosing new tires

jdhunt0

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Oh, so there's something fundamentally wrong with your rig that gets masked by that pressure.

Note that I've got 49k miles on my 37" KO2s that I've been running at 37 PSI from day one and they've worn extremely evenly across the face. Mine (a built diesel) is pretty damn heavy though.
Likely, I'm at 103k. One end of my drag link may have some play and good chance I'm due for ball joints.
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zouch

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103K Miles?
if you're still on the original Ball Joints there, you were due for Ball Joints long ago already.


Likely, I'm at 103k. One end of my drag link may have some play and good chance I'm due for ball joints.
 

roaniecowpony

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I had a hub bearing go south on a pickup once. It made a similar noise.
 

TheGrendel

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I have been very happy with my Maxxis RAZR MTs. 50k miles and still going.

IMG_9458.jpg
Glad to hear your RAZRs have worn well. I put the 40s on my build JKU earlier this year. They are definitely louder than my old Nitto TGs. But, if they last longer, I will be happy with the trade off.
 

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Glad to hear your RAZRs have worn well. I put the 40s on my build JKU earlier this year. They are definitely louder than my old Nitto TGs. But, if they last longer, I will be happy with the trade off.
That's "worn well" to you?
 

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I've had good luck so far with my 37x12.5r17 Sailun Terramax RT's! At $230 per tire, you can save yourself a pretty penny and they've held up pretty well for me for the last 10,000 miles. They're surprisingly sticky on the rocks.

37" Sailun Terramax RT - Walmart

At the time I believe I paid $220 for each tire. Looks like they've gone up $10 bucks since then.
 

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gearhead22

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My experience is that the moment arm increase of a larger tire has more to do with the decrease in acceleration and reduction in braking than any weight increase.

Next time you have your large tire equipped Jeep jacked and securely on stands and chocked, Put it in gear and accelerate the tires up to highway speeds and then apply the brakes. They accelerate and decelerate very quickly. You can almost instantly stop the tire rotation with fairly light brake pedal effort.

Diameter, tread pattern are the big effects on acceleration/braking, and fuel economy, IMO.

I believe a street pattern tread would clearly get much better fuel economy than a mud tread, all other things being equal. Anyone that has switched to mud tires clearly knows this.
It's not the extra weight. It's the increase in leverage from the bigger tire fighting against the brakes.
Just wondering: say someone is buying new tires and stays with the same tire size they already have, for example a 37, but increases the weight, would you expect minimal to no change in acceleration and braking? Any expected change in all around driving? For instance the 37” c rated BFG is 63lbs on paper, a Baja boss AT or even MT 37” is 80lbs. Now if we get to specifics yes the Baja boss’ are known to be a slightly larger diameter than the BFG. But for all intensive purposes let’s assume they’re the same diameter but only weight is changing here. Any expected change purely by increasing weight only?
 

jadmt

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I run two sets of tires and switch back and forth often..one set weighs 88lbs and the other 108lbs per tire/wheel combo.. both 35's one is a pizza cutter AT on oem wheel the othe a 35x12.5-17 MT both are from MIckey Thompson...I do not notice and mpg or acceleration difference under hard braking I do notice a difference...just casual braking nothing really noticeable but hard panic type braking there is....I am guessing with 37's being the weight is further out might be even more pronounced all the way around. my pizza cutters are E rated and the MT's are D rated and both ride really nice at 28psi with perfect wear.
 
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3TV

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Just wondering: say someone is buying new tires and stays with the same tire size they already have, for example a 37, but increases the weight, would you expect minimal to no change in acceleration and braking? Any expected change in all around driving? For instance the 37” c rated BFG is 63lbs on paper, a Baja boss AT or even MT 37” is 80lbs. Now if we get to specifics yes the Baja boss’ are known to be a slightly larger diameter than the BFG. But for all intensive purposes let’s assume they’re the same diameter but only weight is changing here. Any expected change purely by increasing weight only?
I think the extra weight will make a difference in ride quality. Not because of the weight of the tire, but rather, because of the construction of the tire. The reason the Baja Boss tire weighs more is because of much more robust construction. The side wall of the tire is thicker, stronger, and more damage resistant. The tread portion of the tire is also stronger. Those changes are going to affect how the tire rides. The weight difference itself is going to have minimal to no effect.
 

zouch

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yes, there will be a difference.
question is, will you be able to detect it?

i don't think i'd be able to tell a big difference based purely on weight in normal acceleration, but wouldn't be surprised to notice the difference in braking, as i'm likely to put more force into braking than in acceleration.
however, i would expect the increase in rotating unsprung weight to be noticeable in the way it moves through bumps on the highway as the vehicle now has to pull a heavier tire out of those bumps.


Just wondering: say someone is buying new tires and stays with the same tire size they already have, for example a 37, but increases the weight, would you expect minimal to no change in acceleration and braking? Any expected change in all around driving? For instance the 37” c rated BFG is 63lbs on paper, a Baja boss AT or even MT 37” is 80lbs. Now if we get to specifics yes the Baja boss’ are known to be a slightly larger diameter than the BFG. But for all intensive purposes let’s assume they’re the same diameter but only weight is changing here. Any expected change purely by increasing weight only?
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