Headlight high-beam splice point

[Terpsmandan]

The Wh-Gr is still there on the drivers side. I pulled the headlight bucket, unplugged the headlight and connected the Posi-tap to the Wh-Gr. I also used a Hella Valuefit harness. There is a lighted switch with the kit and I connected the trigger wire to the middle (blue) terminal of the switch harness. So much nicer dealing with fixed voltage instead of modulated voltage.

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[Rubigone]

Can also confirm the white/grey is present and functional on export JLs even though the harness is different, 2020 model year.

 

[bobholthaus]

Thank you guys for this find. I will be tapping this for my Switch-Pros high beam trigger wire.

Is there any chance to get enough slack to cut that wire and redo it with a waterproof tap unit? I hate using anything that isn’t totally waterproof. I use Molex Perma-Seal usually, but that would require a complete cut of that wire and then doubling up on one side of the heat shrink connector. Thoughts?

Lastly, and of your find a similar wire tap for reverse? Usually I can jump the fuse for the trailer harness in the Main fuse box (did this on my Grand Cherokee), as there is a separate circuit for reverse lights on a trailer. Never mind, it’s F111 in the fuse box on a 2023 .

 

[bobholthaus]

I started the installation of my Switch Pros switching system last night. I have a 2023 diesel, and that engine bay is tight. So I was very happy to find the white with gray wire right at the top of the headlight housing! I will unwrap that tape and splice it cleanly right there, with plenty of room for my waterproof molex 2-into-1 butt connector.

The easiest win of my install thus far, ha.

 

[Stewtomcat]

I started the installation of my Switch Pros switching system last night. I have a 2023 diesel, and that engine bay is tight. So I was very happy to find the white with gray wire right at the top of the headlight housing! I will unwrap that tape and splice it cleanly right there, with plenty of room for my waterproof molex 2-into-1 butt connector.

The easiest win of my install thus far, ha.

 

[Stewtomcat]

Hi all I just bought a 2021 rubicon and am going to fit a pair of driving lights I was going to splice into the loom hi beam wire but found a firm that supplies a plug and play solution just unplug the plug from headlight and plug in there pigtail and plug the head light plug to the other side leaving you with a plug to take your feed to a relay for your driving lights not the cheapest but pretty neat . Firm is Stedi uk

 

[roaniecowpony]

Using the high beam circuit as a trigger for your big lights is a very handy idea. I have this concept on my GMC. I did the cut and splice on my GMC pickup years ago to run a relay that powers 4 Baja Designs S2 Pro lights recessed in the grill slots. When I'm on a dark, lonely highway, I can quickly illuminate with the extra lights or dim to low beam with the flick of the OE low/high beam stock on the column. So, if oncoming traffic pops over a rise or around a corner, dimming is quick and easy. No fumbling around all over the dashboard to find switches.

What I would do differently is add in a switch between the high beam trigger wire and the relay that powers the big lights, which would then allow you to go to high beam and not have the big lights come on. For those of you that have multiple sets of off road lights, you can expand this concept to control each set separately by adding a switch and relay for each set. Then, no matter which set you want to use, the high beam switch remains the master.

 

[bobholthaus]

Hi all I just bought a 2021 rubicon and am going to fit a pair of driving lights I was going to splice into the loom hi beam wire but found a firm that supplies a plug and play solution just unplug the plug from headlight and plug in there pigtail and plug the head light plug to the other side leaving you with a plug to take your feed to a relay for your driving lights not the cheapest but pretty neat . Firm is Stedi uk

Darn I wish I would have found this. I’d much rather have a plug and play solution than splicing wires.

 

[Stewtomcat]

Using the high beam circuit as a trigger for your big lights is a very handy idea. I have this concept on my GMC. I did the cut and splice on my GMC pickup years ago to run a relay that powers 4 Baja Designs S2 Pro lights recessed in the grill slots. When I'm on a dark, lonely highway, I can quickly illuminate with the extra lights or dim to low beam with the flick of the OE low/high beam stock on the column. So, if oncoming traffic pops over a rise or around a corner, dimming is quick and easy. No fumbling around all over the dashboard to find switches.

What I would do differently is add in a switch between the high beam trigger wire and the relay that powers the big lights, which would then allow you to go to high beam and not have the big lights come on. For those of you that have multiple sets of off road lights, you can expand this concept to control each set separately by adding a switch and relay for each set. Then, no matter which set you want to use, the high beam switch remains the master.

My plan is to use one of the aux switches to interrupt the trigger wire with a relay so I only use the spots when I need them .

 

[bobholthaus]

My plan is to use one of the aux switches to interrupt the trigger wire with a relay so I only use the spots when I need them .

If you’re adding more lights, you may consider a SwitchPros system. Costly, but awesome.

Also, have you seen the power block designed for the aux wiring under the hood? Let me see if I can find it. Super clean way to use that wiring.

 

[Stewtomcat]

If you’re adding more lights, you may consider a SwitchPros system. Costly, but awesome.

Also, have you seen the power block designed for the aux wiring under the hood? Let me see if I can find it. Super clean way to use that wiring.

The only thing I have found is there is very limited space under the bonnet to fit a relay and fuse box !!!

 

[bobholthaus]

The only thing I have found is there is very limited space under the bonnet to fit a relay and fuse box !!!

I think it was from BadgeGlow, but their site is under construction. It was super clean.

With a Switch-Pros, you need no relays or fuses. All built in. Search my build thread for my 2023 Aev Earl. It’s an awesome system. Worth every Penny in my opinion (mine is full, using all 8 switches)

 

[Grayhound]

Can something break this down for me a bit more? I have 2 aux switches that I’m using for 2 kind of cowl lights. How would I add the high beam trigger? Today my aux switch connects to a bus bar and my lights have a relay from the bus bar to the lights. Where in this do I add the splice for the trigger?

 

[bobholthaus]

Can something break this down for me a bit more? I have 2 aux switches that I’m using for 2 kind of cowl lights. How would I add the high beam trigger? Today my aux switch connects to a bus bar and my lights have a relay from the bus bar to the lights. Where in this do I add the splice for the trigger?

Are you using the OEM Aux switches? And can you explain what you’re using a “bus bar” for between the switches and the relays? And are you using two switches to control two lights, meaning one switch per light? I need more clarity in your current wiring to advice how to add the high beam trigger.

I don’t know if this helps, but to simplify 12v wiring, the positive side is like water through a hose. There’s a source (ultimately the battery); there’s a spigot (your switches); and there’s an end point where the water flows out (your lights). And a relay just keeps the high pressure “water” from ever getting near your switch’s; a relay is a just a remote spigot that is “triggered” by a tiny bit of 12v.

And the ground side is a no brainer. The lights just need to be grounded somewhere, either to the frame or to the battery. There is no magic in the ground side, it’s very simple. It does t really directionally “flow”; its existence in the circuit is unrelated to the positive side. It just needs to be there, but can literally happen anywhere in/on the vehicle, or neg post of your battery.

I’m happy to talk through it on the phone as well. It’s a lot easier than most make it out to be. Call me if you’d like: 314-680-2624

 

[Grayhound]

I have 4 lights total on two aux switches. I have a pair of amber cubes as aux high beams and I have a pair of white cubes pointed a bit outward to see deer with on a separate aux switch.
I found I kept moving switches as I settled in on what I wanted. So instead of clipping my wires each time I just set up a simple bus bar so I can move switch wires around so want moving forward.

what I don’t get in the water flow analogy is where to put the high beam trigger so that my aux switch still dictate what set of cubes I have lit while the high beam switch controls the lights I have selected.

I’d call but I’m not in a place to talk.

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