Engine Oil

[YBABRAT]

I don’t follow when we’re comparing full syn to full syn and the failures still occur.

It seems my side of the road is different than yours. If failures occur, it's either defective part, assembly issue (engineering issue, casting sand, or not to spec part) or lack of proper maintenance. Full Synthetic has more than enough engine protection for manufacturers maintenance requirements. Blends and Dino may work for city driving within specified maintenance routine, but may not handle heavy duty engine requirements.

The best oil will not fix but only prolong the time before failure. The amount of time depends on how critical the parts function is. To silence with thicker oil just makes you on deaf ears.

Complain to the dealer... Kia and Honda owners have, and eventually got extended warranties or engine replacements.

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[roaniecowpony]

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If your engine is loud from lifter noise it is possible internal issues from left over sand or engine castings that have effected oiling. There is info on the net about v6 issues... though they are rare.
...

The Pentastar block is a permanent mold casting. No sand. If the root cause was as simple as you stated, there would not be an issue that repeats itself over and over. It's always rare, until it happens to you.

 

[Odyssey USA]

It seems my side of the road is different than yours. If failures occur, it's either defective part, assembly issue (engineering issue, casting sand, or not to spec part) or lack of proper maintenance. Full Synthetic has more than enough engine protection for manufacturers maintenance requirements. Blends and Dino may work for city driving within specified maintenance routine, but may not handle heavy duty engine requirements.

The best oil will not fix but only prolong the time before failure. The amount of time depends on how critical the parts function is. To silence with thicker oil just makes you on deaf ears.

Complain to the dealer... Kia and Honda owners have, and eventually got extended warranties or engine replacements.

Unless you can provide some, even, anecdotal evidence of failure due to a slightly (splitting hairs on the effect) heavier viscosity in the event the heat at the component is higher than believed, we’ll just agree to disagree it’s a detriment.

 

[Pape]

That’s why if you look at the high temp high sheer rating along with a great additive package after getting a grasp on what all that means, change the oil every 5000 miles, then pick a W rating based on where you live and what temperatures you will see in the winter, you’ll be fine.

Was that a run-on sentence? lol

This is where thing get interesting in regard to weigh and shearing, if you use too thick of an oil it will shear to a point where it will end up a "grade lower" while possibly not doing it best work until it get to a acceptable level for the engine.
So I guess at that point you are too thick, get a better oil or reduce the duration of the oil in the engine as you mentioned.

 

[Odyssey USA]

This is where thing get interesting in regard to weigh and shearing, if you use too thick of an oil it will shear to a point where it will end up a "grade lower" while possibly not doing it best work until it get to a acceptable level for the engine.
So I guess at that point you are too thick, get a better oil or reduce the duration of the oil in the engine as you mentioned.

That’s where it gets down to the molecular level and the ability of the VI to stretch instead of break as easily it seems. So quality of the VI it’s a factor too. But yes, it would make sense there’s a possible limit. I personally don’t think it’s quite a factor jumping from a 30 (original 3.6 viscosity spec) to 40 at-temp viscosity. We’re almost talking margin of error if one is comparing a thick 5w-30 to a thin 5w-40.

 

[Old Dogger]

Any major brand of engine oil, that meets the specs will work just fine. More important is that one changes their oil, and no longer than 5,000 miles. I change mine every 3,000 miles. But that is all that I drive per year. In the Arizona heat, we use 5W30.

 

[Pape]

That’s where it gets down to the molecular level and the ability of the VI to stretch instead of break as easily it seems. So quality of the VI it’s a factor too. But yes, it would make sense there’s a possible limit. I personally don’t think it’s quite a factor jumping from a 30 (original 3.6 viscosity spec) to 40 at-temp viscosity. We’re almost talking margin of error if one is comparing a thick 5w-30 to a thin 5w-40.

Probably not an issue, but remain to be validated in number IMO. Ya finding the proper balance take a lot of time and driving

 

[Rick4570]

I stayed with the factory fill, which is Pennzoil Platinum. It is priced competitively and never had any complaints with it. All my other vehicles use Amsoil.

 

[NWJeepr]

Oh look, another oil thread.

 

[grimmjeeper]

 

[USAFREODRetired]

Ran almost exclusively Amsoil at OEM specified 0W-20 since new with oil changes before I get to 5k, and this was my result at just over 55k miles. A lot of highway miles. A bit of towing in the mountains. Since I live at 7,000' MSL, the motor NEVER sees rated HP, even with a tune. Never ran hot, even towing.

I'm not blaming the oil, but I'm going up in grade due to what I perceive is an obvious design weakness that MIGHT be mitigated with some higher viscosity... YMMV.

 

[Spartan99]

All my life I have only used the cheapest oils and filters and viscosities that were in the ball park just used what was around. I routinely own my cars well into the 200,000 miles and never had a problem. I change when the dashboard light tells me to. But I don’t tow or do anything stressful

 

[alphawolff]

It seems my side of the road is different than yours. If failures occur, it's either defective part, assembly issue (engineering issue, casting sand, or not to spec part) or lack of proper maintenance. Full Synthetic has more than enough engine protection for manufacturers maintenance requirements. Blends and Dino may work for city driving within specified maintenance routine, but may not handle heavy duty engine requirements.

The best oil will not fix but only prolong the time before failure. The amount of time depends on how critical the parts function is. To silence with thicker oil just makes you on deaf ears.

Complain to the dealer... Kia and Honda owners have, and eventually got extended warranties or engine replacements.

You forget the basis for 90% of Stellantis failures: Piss poor engineering. A significant amount of our failures are either software related or faulty designs. Very few things are part quality issues. A good example is the new recall on the 3.0TT. They used a recirculating ball thermostat for some reason instead of a conventical thermostat, and that plastic ball fails due to the high operating temperatures of the engine very quickly causing the engine to overheat. Don't even get me started on the JL clutch that still explodes to this day that's also been recalled 4+ times.

Engineered by interns.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Ran almost exclusively Amsoil at OEM specified 0W-20 since new with oil changes before I get to 5k, and this was my result at just over 55k miles. A lot of highway miles. A bit of towing in the mountains. Since I live at 7,000' MSL, the motor NEVER sees rated HP, even with a tune. Never ran hot, even towing.

I'm not blaming the oil, but I'm going up in grade due to what I perceive is an obvious design weakness that MIGHT be mitigated with some higher viscosity... YMMV.

It's not the oil per se, it is the viscosity and a shite design from FCA on the valvetrain and it has been hit or miss as to who will have a 3.6L that has a valvetrain failure. One thing can be said without a doubt--you will not have issues by increasing viscosity. The 3.6L is NOT viscosity dependent and the ONLY reason that 0W-20 was specified was CAFE (aka maximum MPG).

If I had to start over with another Jeep (which is not going to happen), I would use xW-30 with a high cSt @ 100C rating OR a xW-40 from the first oil change--warranty bovine scatology aside.

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