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Dual battery questions

Spartywarrior

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This is essentially how I have my setup now with my River Plus. It's above the fridge on the shelf. I move it and the fridge into the Jeep when I'm about to go on a trip, but it comes back out when I come home. I'm a bit worried about it flying forward in the event of a bad crash, however, even tied down. Also having that much weight that high up isn't ideal, but that's not a huge concern. this is my current setup for 4-5 days, more or less. I will use ratchet straps rather than bungees for the power station next time, and I hope to have a dual-zone Iceco to replace the budget JP-40 this year as well.

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As you can see from the above photo, I have to keep the passenger back seat folded down to store the five foot long Gazelle T-4 tent, and that precludes convenient access to the back/right footwell.
Use straps never bungee cords unless you want a bump on your coconut. Lol
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Hi all,
In the next few weeks I will be starting the overlanding component of my '22 JLUR build and I would like to solicit some advice on a number of fronts, but let's start off with house power first. Since the JL is a relatively small vehicle, finding space to mount a power station is a bit difficult. As such I'm considering a dual battery setup instead, mounting everything in the rear floor cubbyhole space. I've only seen a couple of videos on Youtube, but absolutely nothing in the last three years and I'm wondering if that kind of thing has any serious downsides or has fallen out of favor somehow.

My thought was a Renogy or Victron, 30 or 40A DC-DC charger, a Bluetooth module, and two 50AH LiFePO4 batteries in parallel. For a load it will be a fridge, and chargers for my electronics (eventually a drone battery, but not right away), and some camp lights. I don't plan on running an induction cooker or a fancy coffee machine, etc, so it's just very modest DC draws. I can't think of the last time I needed to plug into the AC ports, although if I get a diesel heater I will probably need to do that.

At the moment I'm using an Ecoflow River Plus (750WH, LiON technology) and it's OK for powering the fridge for about 36 hours in the summer, but after about 4 or 5 days I find I'm drawing more current than is getting back into it when I'm out exploring for the day, and by the time I'm ready to drive home the Ecoflow is often far below 20% capacity or I have to run it on the starter battery for the final day. Obviously a 7 to 10 day trip would be out of the question with my current setup.

Obviously an Ecoflow Delta 2 or Delta 3 would be an improvement, but it's a pretty big unit, whereas a house battery system fits under the floor and takes no otherwise-usable space, and provides the same capacity. I suspect the dual battery setup will be more expensive than a Delta 2 or Delta 3, and a lot harder to install, but in the end, I'm really wanting to maximize internal space. Am I overthinking this? Am I nuts for looking toward this solution instead of a Delta 2 or 3? Is there another option I maybe haven't considered?

Please and thanks in advance.
Rather than adding another battery with Victron/Renergy electronics, or the two 50Ah batteries you mentioned, I'd go with the EcoFlow you already own or upgrade to a larger one if more power is needed. I use a Dabbsson 2300 that provides about 1800-1900 usable watts, but it does weigh around 65lbs.

To keep the power supply charged, that 800w EcoFlow alternator fast charge gizmo sounds like the way to go, but if you do go camping in below freezing temps a lot, the use of LiFePO4 might need some rethinking. Batteries with built in heaters are available, but will cost more.

You've not mentioned solar charging, but did say you are out in the trees a lot, but it wouldn't hurt to pack along a 200w foldup solar panel you can move around to sunny spots. I'm cheap, so I use a 200w Allpowers brand (about $1 per watt) that folds up to 20"X25" and is about an inch thick not counting the cable pouch sewed to one side, so very convenient. Two of them will fit side by side on my hardtop roof, or companies also offer 400w units now.

I recently purchased a 25lb C6 Revtent during Black Friday sale that can be used as a RTT or sit on the ground. Yes, I know about those trips in the middle of the night!

I put my fridge, power box and other heavy stuff on the floor level in my cargo space, and lighter camping gear on the wood panel above. I do orient my fridge the other way than is pictured below, and that gives me better access to other heavy stuff. I save the under floor compartment for tools, recovery gear, 4Xe 120v power cable, etc.

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How many people go with you when you overland / camp? That tent is HUGE for 1-2 people, so I'm guessing you are traveling with 4+? A cot vs sleeping pad will save a lot of space. Multiple tables and chairs? Again, if you are going with 4+ people you will need most of that. If just you and another, you could cut your space consumption in half.

I say this as I've gone down the overland 'gear' path and bought tons of stuff. I have a storage room in house of gear I know barely use. I've found there is a small list of items you really need even for week long trips.

Other option is a small trailer. I went with that for space and to use with various vehicles. Game changer...

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NJRadioGuy

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How many people go with you when you overland / camp? That tent is HUGE for 1-2 people, so I'm guessing you are traveling with 4+? A cot vs sleeping pad will save a lot of space. Multiple tables and chairs? Again, if you are going with 4+ people you will need most of that. If just you and another, you could cut your space consumption in half.
Almost all of my trips are solo. I'm an older guy who's on the "very large" side of things, and I like the extra space to sprawl out, as the saying goes. The T4 offers a nice combination of size and space to stand up in, move around, get dressed, take meds, charge my gear, and so on. A RTT would be to constricting, in addition to the whole ladder problem. As a Person of Unusual Size, the more space the better.

I bring two tables: one is a 4' x 3' rollup to eat off and clean up, and a tiny 2' x 2' fold up that I use as a night stand to put my meds/etc on. Where I camp there are no picnic tables. And I bring two chairs: one to help me get up and stabilize inside the tent, and my nice rocking camp chair by the fire pit.

Rather than adding another battery with Victron/Renergy electronics, or the two 50Ah batteries you mentioned, I'd go with the EcoFlow you already own or upgrade to a larger one if more power is needed. I use a Dabbsson 2300 that provides about 1800-1900 usable watts, but it does weigh around 65lbs.

To keep the power supply charged, that 800w EcoFlow alternator fast charge gizmo sounds like the way to go, but if you do go camping in below freezing temps a lot, the use of LiFePO4 might need some rethinking. Batteries with built in heaters are available, but will cost more.

You've not mentioned solar charging, but did say you are out in the trees a lot, but it wouldn't hurt to pack along a 200w foldup solar panel you can move around to sunny spots. I'm cheap, so I use a 200w Allpowers brand (about $1 per watt) that folds up to 20"X25" and is about an inch thick not counting the cable pouch sewed to one side, so very convenient. Two of them will fit side by side on my hardtop roof, or companies also offer 400w units now.
I'm starting to look more towards a bigger Ecoflow after this discussion rather than dual-battery, but the messiness of temporary wiring is something I'm not a fan of. But I can't fault its ease of use.

As for solar, I will eventually go that route once the rest of the build is completed and I've settled on a final configuration on the roof rack, but at the moment I'm planning to put a Roam box, a set of traction boards, and my Gazelle tent bag up there, leaving no room for solar panels. But that might change over time, and I may value solar charging more than extra storage. Time will tell.
 

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I'm in New Jersey and all my travels are in the U.S. northeast with plenty of forests, so solar doesn't make a lot of sense for my use-case.

I follow Brad's channel and have for years. I wish I had the kind of money he does for his builds, but no way I'm building out a $200,000+ Jeep on my own dime. He's got sponsors and can afford the best-in-class for everything. Same thing with Casey250 and Shaun (TSTN) in Canada, and I'm a Patreon of ASPW in Australia and Ozark Overland Adventures in Arkansas as well. I follow all their builds, but I've got to be a bit more practical and budget conscious. Not cheap, but not best-in-class either.

But in this case, the issue is space, pure and simple. If anybody here is running a 1000WH or greater power station in a JL, would you please post a couple of photos to see how you've run the wiring--preferably if it's semi-permanent, for both charging and distribution? That cubbyhole beneath the back floor is really the perfect space since it will be covered up by a plate system, at least one drawer, and my fridge/slide. If there was any way to fit a power station in there I'd love to do it. Otherwise I have to figure out the best and safest spot to put an Ecoflow.
Mine isn't semi-permament... it's permanent-parmament... so maybe this isn't what you're looking for. I do not have any AC loads, so no additional inverter. For my 4 door, I'm running a 100Ah lithium in the cubby (so more like 1300+ Wh).

I located two BlueSea fuse blocks above the rear driver wheel well under the factory plastics. One panel runs constant loads (camp lighting, fridge, etc) and another runs ignition loads (GMRS radio, HAM radio, etc).

There's a third block for high amp fuses (compressor, DC-DC, fuse blocks). Also in this cubby is the RedArc DC-DC and an ARB compressor. It all fits nicely under the AAL plate system.

I ran a very similar system in my 2 door's cubby. That was a ~60Ah, plus the same DC-DC and compressor, only under a Goose Gear plate system.

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NJRadioGuy

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Mine isn't semi-permament... it's permanent-parmament... so maybe this isn't what you're looking for. I do not have any AC loads, so no additional inverter. For my 4 door, I'm running a 100Ah lithium in the cubby (so more like 1300+ Wh).



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That setup is exactly what I was thinking off doing and would love to have. Permanent base plate, fridge/slide and DC wiring, but many here are suggesting a portable power station would be better. It would be simpler, I agree, but better? How do you handle charging during cold weather months, or do you not get months at a time of sub-freezing temperatures?

Did you install this yourself or get it done professionally, and if the latter, could you recommend a shop? Part of me would absolutely love to have exactly this setup. I'm just not enamored with the battery stations aside from their ease of installation and versatility. I don't need AC for much, but I would like some basic AC availability, and the power station would work in that regard, especially if I intend to purchase and run a diesel heater (see comments from last week in that regard).

I intend to keep the Jeep until it falls apart and wheel it fairly often, as well as use it as my daily driver, so even having the fridge in there for grocery runs to the mall is a Good Thing!
 

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That setup is exactly what I was thinking off doing and would love to have. Permanent base plate, fridge/slide and DC wiring, but many here are suggesting a portable power station would be better. It would be simpler, I agree, but better? How do you handle charging during cold weather months, or do you not get months at a time of sub-freezing temperatures?

Did you install this yourself or get it done professionally, and if the latter, could you recommend a shop? Part of me would absolutely love to have exactly this setup. I'm just not enamored with the battery stations aside from their ease of installation and versatility. I don't need AC for much, but I would like some basic AC availability, and the power station would work in that regard, especially if I intend to purchase and run a diesel heater (see comments from last week in that regard).

I intend to keep the Jeep until it falls apart and wheel it fairly often, as well as use it as my daily driver, so even having the fridge in there for grocery runs to the mall is a Good Thing!
I'm from Wisconsin, so we definitely get long periods of cold weather. However, I travel full-time and pull this Jeep behind us. Nevertheless, when freezing weather hits, the RedArc DC-DC (in lithium mode) prevents charging. Many batteries have this built in, as well. It doesn't last for long... the interior (and especially this cubby sitting above the exhaust), heat up very quickly.

Speaking of heat, the cubby does get warm under long travel days. In my 2 door I mitigated that by installing a different exhaust that relocated the muffler. For this build (the 4 door), I'm using sound deadening / thermal insulation (HushMat) and it has proven itself worthy.

This was a DIY install so I do not have shop recommendations, sorry.
 
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NJRadioGuy

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Speaking of heat, the cubby does get warm under long travel days. In my 2 door I mitigated that by installing a different exhaust that relocated the muffler. For this build (the 4 door), I'm using sound deadening / thermal insulation (HushMat) and it has proven itself worthy.
When you say thermal insulation, you mean lining the bottom of the cubby? Wouldn't that exacerbate the heat buildup in there? In NJ our summers are brutally hot and humid, although, thankfully, not as bad as the deep south. But still a concern. I'm not running a custom exhaust any longer. It had a Magnaflow on it when I bought the Jeep but the noise was horrible and I sold it ASAP and got a stock muffler that I've been far happier with ever since.


What gauge wiring did you use to go to/from the battery? I'm guessing 4AWG for 50A? Did you run your negative lead directly up front or did you ground it all in the back?
I'm having difficulty seeing how that cubby is all set up. Looks like a lot more stuff back there than just two LiFePO4s and the Redarc; the ARB Twin and heaven knows what else. It looks fantastic bit I don't understand how it all fits in that small space.
 

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When you say thermal insulation, you mean lining the bottom of the cubby? Wouldn't that exacerbate the heat buildup in there? In NJ our summers are brutally hot and humid, although, thankfully, not as bad as the deep south. But still a concern. I'm not running a custom exhaust any longer. It had a Magnaflow on it when I bought the Jeep but the noise was horrible and I sold it ASAP and got a stock muffler that I've been far happier with ever since.


What gauge wiring did you use to go to/from the battery? I'm guessing 4AWG for 50A? Did you run your negative lead directly up front or did you ground it all in the back?
I'm having difficulty seeing how that cubby is all set up. Looks like a lot more stuff back there than just two LiFePO4s and the Redarc; the ARB Twin and heaven knows what else. It looks fantastic bit I don't understand how it all fits in that small space.
Yes, lining the cubby and the whole rear cargo area (see the black insulation from photo).

No, the goal is to keep the exhaust heat out. There are large gaps around the plate, plus the aluminum that acts as a heat sink for any heat inside. We have wheeled in Moab, driven all day in 100+ heat, and aired up 3+ Jeeps without issues.

Wire gauge varies depending on need. For example, the DC-DC (only a 25A) has a 6AWG going from chassis battery, to fuse, through the firewall, and down the driver side interior. The negative is on one of the many factory provided grounds in the cargo area.

There is a bit more in the cubby including a Victron shunt for battery monitoring (SoC, temperature, etc), a time-off delay module for the ignition sourced loads, and plenty of wiring. However, it is a single 100Ah battery, not two. Unfortunately I do not have any more pictures, but there is a reasonable amount of room in this area.
 

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I'm starting to look more towards a bigger Ecoflow after this discussion rather than dual-battery, but the messiness of temporary wiring is something I'm not a fan of. But I can't fault its ease of use.

As for solar, I will eventually go that route once the rest of the build is completed and I've settled on a final configuration on the roof rack, but at the moment I'm planning to put a Roam box, a set of traction boards, and my Gazelle tent bag up there, leaving no room for solar panels. But that might change over time, and I may value solar charging more than extra storage. Time will tell.
If you do decide to go for a bigger EcoFlow, be aware that starting next Tuesday Harbor Freight willl be discounting them 30%-40% in addition to having already lowered the price to clear them out. This video describes some of the higher priced power boxes but do search all of the clearance priced items to see what else they may have. I don't think these are being clearanced by Harbor Freight because they are outdated or old models, but rather because HF might be offering their own power stations, as mentioned by the video channel:
 

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@NJRadioGuy I’m in the same boat as you trying to decide between a Ecoflow powerstation Vs installing a 100Ah LifePO4 ( ideally I would prefer a 200Ah LifePO4) under the cubby with a DCDC charger like a Redarc.

If you haven’t already, look up Matt’s (Ozark Overland) excellent install video from a couple of years ago or Asia’s another great video of the same at Baptism Overland

I have been researching for a 12v control hub to complement this install since it nicely covers up all the wiring inside the aluminum box, and comes pre-wired for all the output control sockets and rocker switches with a fuse block to attach accessories to. Check out Kickass or iTechWorld videos for reference .

I ‘d like to potentially add two 100Ah of LiTime LiFePO4s (the mini version since its smaller) in the cubby, but I’m still tying to figure out where I would install/bolt down the 12v control hub in the rear cargo area of 4-door Jeep JL( I can bolt a DCDC charger on top of the control hub instead of inside the cubby).

I have a Goose gear platform with a fridge slider already, along with a Vector off-road cargo shelf.

Im wondering if its worth going through all the trouble of a dual battery setup in the rear cubby with a control hub, OR just get a Ecoflow 1800W station and pair it with a Ecoflow’s alternator charger and be done with it.

1st world problems…
 
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Just curious, why 200WH? What are you planning to run that you need that much? 3 course gourmet meals on an induction cooker? Expresso every morning? Welding?

I've seen Matt's video as well as I think it was Revere Overland's thorough video on the subject and two 50AH batteries will fit in the space, but as I discovered, a 100 AH is too large unless a custom system is built for it, which I can't really afford to do.

I would very much like to see some detailed pictures with the Goose Gear platform and fridge slider. I have the Hooke Road shelf in my JL that leaves 22" from the bottom of the shelf to the top of the carpeted cargo cover. I'm guessing about a half-inch less with the Goose Gear plate.
 

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Just curious, why 200WH? What are you planning to run that you need that much? 3 course gourmet meals on an induction cooker? Expresso every morning? Welding?

I've seen Matt's video as well as I think it was Revere Overland's thorough video on the subject and two 50AH batteries will fit in the space, but as I discovered, a 100 AH is too large unless a custom system is built for it, which I can't really afford to do.

I would very much like to see some detailed pictures with the Goose Gear platform and fridge slider. I have the Hooke Road shelf in my JL that leaves 22" from the bottom of the shelf to the top of the carpeted cargo cover. I'm guessing about a half-inch less with the Goose Gear plate.
 

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I have a simular setup compared with Proptied. AAL M.A.S.S platform and drawer for tools. My DC to DC charger is the Victron Orion XS Smart 50 amp charger. One can have the control to charge from 0 to 50 amps depending on needs. The size of the unit is hard to beat as well as its dependability. I also have a Victron smart shunt to monitor battery and charging. There are other benefits that come with the shunt. One could do without it if you where to buy a 100 amp smart LiFePO4. You could monitor your battery charging and discharging and SOC from that. The compartment in the back is a great place for this setup. I live in AZ and have had this setup running for 3 yrs with no problems. My recent changes in the last year was to change Victron charger from 18 amp to 50 amp charger as well from a 50 amp/hr battery to a 100 amp/hr battery. The Victron 50 amp charger size allowed me to increase battery size. Another benefit was running ARB compressor off of the 100 amp battery. Before I had to run compressor off of the engine battery because 50 amp/hr battery BMS could not handle amp draw of compressor. In my setup all items fit in the compartment including all current protection. It takes a little time for layout and design but I couldn't be happier. I can't stress enough to make sure everything is securely mounted from movement including all wiring. Good luck.

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Just curious, why 200WH? What are you planning to run that you need that much? 3 course gourmet meals on an induction cooker? Expresso every morning? Welding?

I've seen Matt's video as well as I think it was Revere Overland's thorough video on the subject and two 50AH batteries will fit in the space, but as I discovered, a 100 AH is too large unless a custom system is built for it, which I can't really afford to do.

I would very much like to see some detailed pictures with the Goose Gear platform and fridge slider. I have the Hooke Road shelf in my JL that leaves 22" from the bottom of the shelf to the top of the carpeted cargo cover. I'm guessing about a half-inch less with the Goose Gear plate.
I only run a ARB fridge, and potentially some lights at the back in the future.
With my calculation, 100Ah battery can run your fridge for about 2-3 days. But if I want to run the fridge for longer than that , say 4-5 days, I would need to either drive to charge the alternator or have a power bank. Also, the number of days reduces if I keep my lights on in the night at camp for about 2-3 hours. For future, I plan to get a RTT, and if I want to charge my phone, watch etc via these batteries for 2-3 nights in a row, 100Ah may not be enough for future-proof.

Maybe Im overthinking all this, and I should just be done and get a 100Ah LifePo4:)
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