Does WOT really help the Pentastar?

[Zandcwhite]

The v6 doesn't make peak torque until 4800rpm and peak horsepower until 6400rpm. How anyone is driving around at less than 3k rpm on a regular basis is beyond me. No hills? No headwind? No passing? No throttle ever? The only way to get the v6 to do anything is to punch it. Between the 2 stage oil pump and the fact the thing makes no power down low you're doing the engine and the driver a disservice driving like that.

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[jadmt]

The v6 doesn't make peak torque until 4800rpm and peak horsepower until 6400rpm. How anyone is driving around at less than 3k rpm on a regular basis is beyond me. No hills? No headwind? No passing? No throttle ever? The only way to get the v6 to do anything is to punch it. Between the 2 stage oil pump and the fact the thing makes no power down low you're doing the engine and the driver a disservice driving like that.

Exactly which is why 4.10’s on 35-37 tires sux. Never really in the power band. Cruising at 70 at 2000 rpms come to a slight rise and hard downshift to 5th to maintain speed. My buddy with 4.88’s just stays in 8th at close to 3000rpm or if shifts just drops a gear. These like to rev and its my 5th 3.6 and doesn’t bother me to run it at higher rpms. My buddies with same set up and 4.56 and 4.88 consistently get better mpg. It does have a pretty flat torq curve so that’s a plus i guess

 

[alphawolff]

A while back you mentioned during COVID oil seals were used that were not from the usual supplier. Do you know when this ended, are there any problems, and is Stellantis making good on engines out of warranty?

i don't remember any oil seal issues, just oil filter issues. we couldn't get OEM filters for like 3-5 months at one point. we even had a TSB telling us which aftermarket filters were ok to use.

stellantis has been good-willing a lot of 3.6l engine repairs as of late, primarily head gaskets. its up to your dealer to attempt to submit for it.

 

[Zandcwhite]

Exactly which is why 4.10’s on 35-37 tires sux. Never really in the power band. Cruising at 70 at 2000 rpms come to a slight rise and hard downshift to 5th to maintain speed. My buddy with 4.88’s just stays in 8th at close to 3000rpm or if shifts just drops a gear. These like to rev and its my 5th 3.6 and doesn’t bother me to run it at higher rpms. My buddies with same set up and 4.56 and 4.88 consistently get better mpg.

If it's downshifting it IS getting into the powerband. I don't mind 4.10s and 37s at all. If it needs more power it downshifts. If I'm cruising on flat ground with a tailwind it's low rpms. I've found no difference in mpgs on long freeway/highway drives regardless of gearing. Around town there's a slight bump with lower gears. We've run everything from 4.10s and 33s, 4.56s and 35s, 4.10s and 37s, 4.56s and 39s, and 5.38s and 38s. Obviously the bigger the tire the worse the mpg but also the deeper the gears the worse mpg on long freeway drives. Sure with 5.38s it would hold 8th all the time, but that also included any speed over 40mph and the 1st few trips I was wondering where the next gear was at freeway speed. Going too deep was worse than too tall in my experience. Sure 4.56s would be better for my 37s, but it's not $3k better to save 1 mpg. Who cares if its would hold 1 gear higher or downshift 1 gear less? The auto does all that...automatically. Even towing an 8400 pound trailer up a grade that gains almost 4k feet of elevation in 20 miles it would maintain 65mph...at 6k rpms. It would take the same 6k rpms to do the work even with 4.88s. Who cares if it gets there by downshifting to 4th or 5th or 6th? It still needs all of that 285hp this thing can produce and the only way to get there is to spin 6k. Regearing doesn't do anything outside of 1st gear that a downshift doesn't already do. It's final drive ratio and an engine that doesn't make power below 4500 rpm. Unless you gear 5.38s on stock tires you aren't in the powerband cruising down the highway... and you don't want to be. That's the entire point of 2 overdrives. To get the rpms low when the load is low. Getting the rpms high when you NEED the power takes a fraction of a second and is automatic. Not sure if you're exaggerating, but a slight rise might drop it to 6th too maintain speed. Especially as someone who drives 540 miles each way to our property in AZ regularly where 100% of the trip has 70-75mph speed limits and even the semis roll 80+, I prefer the taller side of gearing as my cruise control is generally set at 85mph. Even the stock xr gearing of 4.56s with 35s felt geared too low on the freeway.

 

[jadmt]

If it's downshifting it IS getting into the powerband. I don't mind 4.10s and 37s at all. If it needs more power it downshifts. If I'm cruising on flat ground with a tailwind it's low rpms. I've found no difference in mpgs on long freeway/highway drives regardless of gearing. Around town there's a slight bump with lower gears. We've run everything from 4.10s and 33s, 4.56s and 35s, 4.10s and 37s, 4.56s and 39s, and 5.38s and 38s. Obviously the bigger the tire the wise the mpg but also the deeper the gears the worse mpg on long freeway drives. Sure with 5.38s it would hold 8th all the time, but that also included any speed over 40mph and the 1st few trips I was wondering where the next gear was at freeway speed. Going too deep was worse than too tall in my experience. Sure 4.56s would be better for my 37s, but it's not $3k better to save 1 mpg. Who cares if its would hold 1 gear higher or downshift 1 gear less? The auto does all that...automatically. Even towing an 8400 pound trailer up a grade that gains almost 4k feet of elevation in 20 miles it would maintain 65mph...at 6k rpms. It would take the same 6k rpms to do the work even with 4.88s. Who cares if it gets there by downshifting to 4th or 5th or 6th? It still needs all of that 285hp this thing can produce and the only way to get there is to spin 6k. Regearing doesn't do anything outside of 1st gear that a downshift doesn't already do. It's final drive ratio and an engine that doesn't make power below 4500 rpm. Unless you gear 5.38s on stock tires you aren't in the powerband cruising down the highway... and you don't want to be. That's the entire point of 2 overdrives. To get the rpms low when the load is low. Getting the rpms high when you NEED the power takes a fraction of a second and is automatic. Not sure if you're exaggerating, but a slight rise might drop it to 6th too maintain speed. Especially as someone who drives 540 miles each way to our property in AZ regularly where 100% of the trip has 70-75mph speed limits and even the semis roll 80+, I prefer the taller side of gearing as my cruise control is generally set at 85mph.

I’m in montana so either up or down and always a head wind one way or the other. Try setting the cruise at 75-80 and continual hunting for gears and any rise a hard downshift with 5000+rpms. I’m sure if i lived in a different area 4.10’s would be fine. For me its not the $2500-3000 to regear it’s finding a competent installer. If i only dropped to 6th i would be happy but hard to 4th or 5th is annoying. They are not the gentle downshifts like i get when dropping to 7th and 6th.

 

[Zandcwhite]

I’m in montana so either up or down and always a head wind one way or the other. Try setting the cruise at 75-80 and continual hunting for gears and any rise a hard downshift with 5000+rpms. I’m sure if i lived in a different area 4.10’s would be fine. For me its not the $2500-3000 to regear it’s finding a competent installer. If i only dropped to 6th i would be happy but hard to 4th or 5th is annoying. They are not the gentle downshifts like i get when dropping to 7th and 6th.

Mine only drops to 4th or 5th when pulling steep grades. Living in the central valley helps as the daily trips are pretty flat. I'm hoping the supercharger kits for our GPEC5 ecu make it to the market soon. An extra 140 whp would do a lot more for pulling grades than gearing ever could. I don't mind spending money on upgrades, it's the value of them. Regearing from 4.10 to 4.56 just isn't a big enough difference for the cost in my experience.

 

[jadmt]

Definitely on going 4.56 from 4.10. I would go 4.88 if shelling out to regear

 

[jellis4148]

With my 37's on stock 4.10 gears I don't see 8th gear very often. If it's a flat road doing about 60 mph I see 8th. So most of the time I'm in 6th or 7th doing about 2,000 rpms. Most of the time with the hills I get to 3,000 rpm and the oil pressure goes up to 75. I still change it every 3k miles and use 0W-20 PUP>

 

[Socks]

I just recently, as of last week Wednesday, picked up my 2025 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon X. Unlimited. 3.6 liter/8-speed automatic, 4.88 gears and Extreme tire pkg. I had a 2017 2-door Rubicon Hardrock with a 6-speed manual transmission that I put 99,900 miles on in less than 3 years. For 6 months I was running 190 mile round trips to work 6 days a week. Going and coming home on I-70 in Indiana. Running 80-85 mph alot. Not one problem. Fast forward to now, just about have 500 miles on it and will be out of the break-in period. Read up on different oils and viscosity. Looking at 0w-40 Motul as oil of choice from here on out. Feel free to chime in. Jeep will be with me for a very long long time. Spent the last 4 years in a 2021 Mazda6. Drove it like I stole it. Even killed 2 deer with it and a 40 pound raccoon. Glad to be back in my Jeep. Waited 3 months for it to come in.

 

[Jeep Junkie]

I just recently, as of last week Wednesday, picked up my 2025 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon X. Unlimited. 3.6 liter/8-speed automatic, 4.88 gears and Extreme tire pkg. I had a 2017 2-door Rubicon Hardrock with a 6-speed manual transmission that I put 99,900 miles on in less than 3 years. For 6 months I was running 190 mile round trips to work 6 days a week. Going and coming home on I-70 in Indiana. Running 80-85 mph alot. Not one problem. Fast forward to now, just about have 500 miles on it and will be out of the break-in period. Read up on different oils and viscosity. Looking at 0w-40 Motul as oil of choice from here on out. Feel free to chime in. Jeep will be with me for a very long long time. Spent the last 4 years in a 2021 Mazda6. Drove it like I stole it. Even killed 2 deer with it and a 40 pound raccoon. Glad to be back in my Jeep. Waited 3 months for it to come in.

What oil did you use in your 2017?

 

[Socks]

What oil did you use in your 2017?

What oil did you use in your 2017?

Royal Purple 0W-20 WIX filters.

 

[Jeep Junkie]

Royal Purple 0W-20 WIX filters.

So why switch viscosity after such great success?

 

[JL ME]

Used to know a guy who worked in PD motor pool with Mopar vehicles. He said they are great when working hard, it's the idle that kills them. I personally blame the stupid two level oil pumps. At no time do I want my engine to have 20psi oil when running, but thats what you get under 2000 rpm. Then it kicks up to 48psi.

Overly complicating the oiling system simply seems foolish.

If that's what you are getting for oil pressure your motor has problems!

 

[Socks]

So why switch viscosity after such great success?

May not. But newer research that I've done since then. Royal Purple is readily available. Motul...I've found it but it's a bear getting it.

 

[Socks]

May not. But newer research that I've done since then. Royal Purple is readily available. Motul...I've found it but it's a bear getting it.

It is a daily driver and the only vehicle I'll have. So I'm going to be real anal about service and intervals. Always garaged when I'm not driving it too. Barely fits through the doorway. OLD cement block garage.

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