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Dodging bullets, but finally got hit

Headbarcode

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Ran out a couple nights back, and all was well, until I noticed the center screen went completely black on my way out of the neighborhood.

I still have turn signal indicators and the headlamp and foglamp indicators, but everything else is gone. The screen is still getting power, but it's looking just like a TV that's on but blacked out.

A bunch of related threads talk about either full replacement or of a software update. The extra kick in the pants, is the Tazer being married and that screen is needed to unmarry.

I wonder if I should just get another unit and install it myself. I just dont know if that can be done without the dealer software magic. I read about them being needed to relay the odometer reading over, but is there more to it?

Any help would be immensely appreciated!

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Are there any OBD codes?
 
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Are there any OBD codes?
I don't have a scanner. The tazer allows reading of codes, but I can't access its settings without the screen working.

I tried unplugging the tazer mini to see if that helped, but that wishful thinking didn't work. I now have both negative battery terminals disconnected, to force a system reboot, and will reconnect them at the end of the work day. Keeping my fingers crossed on that one.

Would a handheld obd scanner be able to determine if the screen needs to be replaced or not? If so, do you have any recommendations? I'm good with mechanical work, but have never had any need to delve into the computer end of things. Uploading pics to this forum was a big achievement for me, a couple years back. 😆
 

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I don't have a scanner. The tazer allows reading of codes, but I can't access its settings without the screen working.

I tried unplugging the tazer mini to see if that helped, but that wishful thinking didn't work. I now have both negative battery terminals disconnected, to force a system reboot, and will reconnect them at the end of the work day. Keeping my fingers crossed on that one.

Would a handheld obd scanner be able to determine if the screen needs to be replaced or not? If so, do you have any recommendations? I'm good with mechanical work, but have never had any need to delve into the computer end of things. Uploading pics to this forum was a big achievement for me, a couple years back. 😆
Some of the OBD codes can get pretty specific with circuits now a days, would help me at least look up a procedure for you.

May want to try a cluster self test:
SELF TEST
The self-diagnostic test will put the IPC into its test mode. In this mode the IPC can perform an actuator test that will confirm that the circuitry, the gauges and the indicators are capable of operating as designed. During the test the IPC circuitry will position each of the gauge needles at various calibration points, illuminate each of the segments in the Thin Film Transistor (TFT) display unit and turn all of the indicators ON and OFF again.

Successful completion of the self-diagnostic test will confirm that the IPC is operational. However, there may still be a problem with the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus or another electronic control module that provides electronic message inputs to the IPC, or the inputs to one of these electronic control modules. Use a diagnostic scan tool to diagnose these components. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.

  1. Begin the test with the ignition switch in the OFF position.
  2. Depress the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) Down / Scroll switch button on the left steering wheel spoke.
  3. While still holding the Down / Scroll switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the ON position, but do not start the engine.
  4. Release the Down / Scroll switch button.
  5. The IPC will simultaneously begin to illuminate all of the operational segments in the TFT display unit and perform a bulb check of each operational Light Indicating Diode (LED) unit indicator. The TFT display segments and LED unit indicators remain illuminated as each gauge needle is swept to several calibration points and back. If a TFT display segment or an LED unit indicator fails to illuminate, or if a gauge needle fails to sweep through the calibration points and back during this test, the IPC must be replaced.
  6. The self-diagnostic test is now complete. The IPC will automatically exit the self-diagnostic test mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test. The self-diagnostic test will be aborted if the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, or if an electronic vehicle speed message indicating that the vehicle is moving is received over the CAN data bus during the test.
  7. Repeat the test, if necessary.
 

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Some of the OBD codes can get pretty specific with circuits now a days, would help me at least look up a procedure for you.

May want to try a cluster self test:
SELF TEST
The self-diagnostic test will put the IPC into its test mode. In this mode the IPC can perform an actuator test that will confirm that the circuitry, the gauges and the indicators are capable of operating as designed. During the test the IPC circuitry will position each of the gauge needles at various calibration points, illuminate each of the segments in the Thin Film Transistor (TFT) display unit and turn all of the indicators ON and OFF again.

Successful completion of the self-diagnostic test will confirm that the IPC is operational. However, there may still be a problem with the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus or another electronic control module that provides electronic message inputs to the IPC, or the inputs to one of these electronic control modules. Use a diagnostic scan tool to diagnose these components. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.

  1. Begin the test with the ignition switch in the OFF position.
  2. Depress the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) Down / Scroll switch button on the left steering wheel spoke.
  3. While still holding the Down / Scroll switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the ON position, but do not start the engine.
  4. Release the Down / Scroll switch button.
  5. The IPC will simultaneously begin to illuminate all of the operational segments in the TFT display unit and perform a bulb check of each operational Light Indicating Diode (LED) unit indicator. The TFT display segments and LED unit indicators remain illuminated as each gauge needle is swept to several calibration points and back. If a TFT display segment or an LED unit indicator fails to illuminate, or if a gauge needle fails to sweep through the calibration points and back during this test, the IPC must be replaced.
  6. The self-diagnostic test is now complete. The IPC will automatically exit the self-diagnostic test mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test. The self-diagnostic test will be aborted if the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, or if an electronic vehicle speed message indicating that the vehicle is moving is received over the CAN data bus during the test.
  7. Repeat the test, if necessary.
Damn! I envy your knowledge with this computer stuff. And thank you very much for that diagnostic procedure. I'm going to get my guy to relieve me from what I'm doing, so I can reconnect the batteries and do that test.

Thank you so much for the awesome help! I'll report back about what happens.
 

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Mike,
The diagnosis for the cluster in my service manual is lengthy and requires at least a code reader. If you want to pursue it yourself, I'd highly recommend you go to the Tech Authority site and purchase the Service Manual Products - Mopar Tech Authority

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Mine did the same thing at about 1500 miles, the morning of a planned trip to Texas.....kinda needed the gas gauge!!! Disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes, reconnected and haven't had a problem since. Have a little over 6K on it now.
 
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Mike,
The diagnosis for the cluster in my service manual is lengthy and requires at least a code reader. If you want to pursue it yourself, I'd highly recommend you go to the Tech Authority site and purchase the Service Manual Products - Mopar Tech Authority

Jeep Wrangler JL Dodging bullets, but finally got hit cluster testin
Thank you very much for the link to that service manual. I'm so out of touch with computer stuff that I haven't even had a computer for the last several years. I'll have to dig into that site deeper, to see if a printed copy is available.
 

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Thank you very much for the link to that service manual. I'm so out of touch with computer stuff that I haven't even had a computer for the last several years. I'll have to dig into that site deeper, to see if a printed copy is available.
I use an online subscription version called AllDataDiy. If you have a tablet, that may be easier than the USB version.
 

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Mine did the same thing at about 1500 miles, the morning of a planned trip to Texas.....kinda needed the gas gauge!!! Disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes, reconnected and haven't had a problem since. Have a little over 6K on it now.
I'd happily trade my left nut for it to be that simple. I'll be reconnecting the batteries as soon as I can get relieved from what I'm doing, so fingers crossed that it comes back to life. Heck, with my luck, I should also cross my toes and eyes while I'm at it. 😆
 
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I use an online subscription version called AllDataDiy. If you have a tablet, that may be easier than the USB version.
Just a Samsung galaxy s20 here. Maybe that would suffice? I now recall my wife having a laptop, but on the rare occasion she uses it, she's constantly muttering "come on, you slow piece of shit!"

I'll definitely look into that online subscription. Thanks for all the great help! I really do appreciate it!
 
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Some of the OBD codes can get pretty specific with circuits now a days, would help me at least look up a procedure for you.

May want to try a cluster self test:
SELF TEST
The self-diagnostic test will put the IPC into its test mode. In this mode the IPC can perform an actuator test that will confirm that the circuitry, the gauges and the indicators are capable of operating as designed. During the test the IPC circuitry will position each of the gauge needles at various calibration points, illuminate each of the segments in the Thin Film Transistor (TFT) display unit and turn all of the indicators ON and OFF again.

Successful completion of the self-diagnostic test will confirm that the IPC is operational. However, there may still be a problem with the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus or another electronic control module that provides electronic message inputs to the IPC, or the inputs to one of these electronic control modules. Use a diagnostic scan tool to diagnose these components. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.

  1. Begin the test with the ignition switch in the OFF position.
  2. Depress the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) Down / Scroll switch button on the left steering wheel spoke.
  3. While still holding the Down / Scroll switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the ON position, but do not start the engine.
  4. Release the Down / Scroll switch button.
  5. The IPC will simultaneously begin to illuminate all of the operational segments in the TFT display unit and perform a bulb check of each operational Light Indicating Diode (LED) unit indicator. The TFT display segments and LED unit indicators remain illuminated as each gauge needle is swept to several calibration points and back. If a TFT display segment or an LED unit indicator fails to illuminate, or if a gauge needle fails to sweep through the calibration points and back during this test, the IPC must be replaced.
  6. The self-diagnostic test is now complete. The IPC will automatically exit the self-diagnostic test mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test. The self-diagnostic test will be aborted if the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, or if an electronic vehicle speed message indicating that the vehicle is moving is received over the CAN data bus during the test.
  7. Repeat the test, if necessary.
Still a no-go after reconnecting the batteries. Did the IPC self diagnostic test a couple times, with same results...



Looks like I'm needing a new IPC? That's assuming the speedo needle should've also did a sweep?
 

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Still a no-go after reconnecting the batteries. Did the IPC self diagnostic test a couple times, with same results...



Looks like I'm needing a new IPC? That's assuming the speedo needle should've also did a sweep?
Rats. Was really hoping that helped... wish I knew more. Good luck.
 
 



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