Custom cargo "security" enclosure for under $100

[Shots]

That was actually one of my original design ideas. The only reason I decided to go with a panel instead is so I could fold the seat(s) down for flat storage and/or storage of stuff I didn't want sitting on the leather, while still having a secure enclosure.
If that's not a concern, I think some sort of "tether" to hook into the child seat anchor would be a great option if someone wants to build an enclosure without the front wall.

Sponsored

 

[jeper]

Nice build!! I'm trying to same and would you be able to share the side and front dimensions? Thanks

 

[Shots]

I took some rough numbers from my enclosure. These should be close enough to get you started. You may need to fine tune it a bit based on where you put the top rails and how much anti-tamper lip you want beyond the front and top panels.

 

[Shots]

I've finally got some photos of the Jeep with the top off, to show how the enclosure looks in the wild.
FWIW, it works great. Anything back there (such as my Freedom panels) is locked away securely, but easily accessible. The carpeted finish seems to be holding up well, and is really easy to clean off with a quick pass of the dust buster.

 

[LowCountry]

nice job!....I like the lighter color carpet with the silver exterior, Ive been thinking about doing something like this in my 2dr to have a little enclosed box to hide stuff out of sight when the hardtop is off

 

[Shots]

Thanks.
I had the carpet from another project and figured I'd match up with the Billet Silver pretty well. I considered buying darker carpet, or dyeing the stuff I had, but figured I'd just go with it I had since I was still developing the enclosure. It seems to match up nicely, so I'll like use a similar shade if/when I make a pvc or aluminum version.

 

[Scarr2k]

Wow, just came across this thread and your reasoning for building your own security enclosure is the same as mine. I want something that will fit the Freedom panels but also don't want to drop $800 on pre-made. Love the design and I think this will be my template to make one for my 4dr JL.

 

[Shots]

Glad I could get you headed in the right direction.
When you make yours, keep in mind that you have to angle the front panel (the one against the back seat) in order for the Freedom panels to fit. One of the problems with the Tuffy enclosure was that it had a straight front wall, which took away too much space so the panels wouldn't fit. By angling the front wall to match the seat angle the panels fit back there just fine.

On a side note, I'm considering adding some tie down points to the top panels. It turns out I put stuff on top of the enclosure (when the top of the Jeep is on) pretty frequently. It seems like I've doubled my storage capacity because I can set stuff in and on the enclosure. I know it's the same but I don't have to stack stuff on top of stuff which is nice, especially when stuff inside the enclosure is something like muddy hiking boots. If I do, I'll post it, but I'm thinking about a low profile type set-up, or maybe some slots/holes, so the panels still stack well. Just brainstorming at the moment.

 

[Fatman]

Looks great, considered using some of these tools I have that are wasting away, decided to wait a bit.
If I did this I would for sure go to office depot and put a cord thing in the hole by the power outlet, just my OCD, probably why I haven't started building mine.

 

[Kraty1]

This is fantastic! Would it work with the soft top as well?

 

[Shots]

It should. I don't have a soft top to test it, but the sides should leave enough room for the soft top frame to fold down (I'm assuming that's the concern based on issues I've seen with other enclosures). If it doesn't fit the way I've got it designed, it could be adapted to work. The best part about making your own stuff, is you can make it work however you want.

 

[Grateful1]

2 more photos, that I forgot to add yesterday.

A view with the tailgate open and glass closed.

A view of the enclosure with the tailgate closed and glass open. This would obviously be what it looks like with the hardtop removed from the Jeep, and my main reason for making it.

I didn't draft it or anything so no detailed dimensions. It was kind of a design on the fly type thing. I can take whatever measurements you need though. Any specifics you're looking for?

Also, the side panels were definitely the most challenging part. Not unreasonable, or anything that should scare you away from making one. All the in/out was trimming a little here and a little there to get the best possible fit. You could save a lot of that by cutting slightly heavier around the sub and hump on the driver side floor/wall. That is assuming you don't mind a little gap to save some time and effort. I was being picky and wanted it to fit as close as possible so I kept trimming a little at a time to get a snug fit.

If I were building one again, I'd probably change the top panels a bit. I'd make the front panel cover slightly more area than the back one, instead of making them each cover half the cargo area. Then I'd attach a hinge between the two so the rear panel folds on top of the front panel. I designed it so I can have either the front or rear panel removed for a tall item. After using it for a while now, I've found that I don't take the front panel off by itself so that ability is kinda pointless. I think the convenience of having both panels install/remove as a single unit may be a better option than the independently removable panels.
FWIW, you can't hing the back on top of the front with them evenly sized due to the angle of the seat. You technically can do it if you leaned the seats up first but that's inconvenient. I think making the front panel 2 or 3 inches bigger would probably be enough to allow the rear panel to fold up without hitting the seat. Just brainstorming here. Maybe I'll make a hinged top for a 2.0 version this summer.

To get the curves and cuts, you can use cardboard. Trace then trim, fit, trace, trim. When it is fitted the way you like, use the cardboard as a template. Just a thought.

 

[Grateful1]

Glad I could get you headed in the right direction.
When you make yours, keep in mind that you have to angle the front panel (the one against the back seat) in order for the Freedom panels to fit. One of the problems with the Tuffy enclosure was that it had a straight front wall, which took away too much space so the panels wouldn't fit. By angling the front wall to match the seat angle the panels fit back there just fine.

On a side note, I'm considering adding some tie down points to the top panels. It turns out I put stuff on top of the enclosure (when the top of the Jeep is on) pretty frequently. It seems like I've doubled my storage capacity because I can set stuff in and on the enclosure. I know it's the same but I don't have to stack stuff on top of stuff which is nice, especially when stuff inside the enclosure is something like muddy hiking boots. If I do, I'll post it, but I'm thinking about a low profile type set-up, or maybe some slots/holes, so the panels still stack well. Just brainstorming at the moment.

Foe example: Something like a Trail Rail Kit would work pretty easily. Also (cannot think of the name) but the chrome eyelets on a boat. They would bolt down threw the wood.

 

[Shots]

Yeah, great tip for anyone planning to make an enclosure. I've made cardboard "templates" for various projects, and it works pretty well. I still cut a little light though, so I can trim the actual material to the specific fit that I want.

David, Trail Rail is a good idea, but they're a little thicker/heavier than I want on the top panels. I think boat cleats will probably be taller than I want too. I'm actually thinking a set of D-rings that can fold flat, attached to the top or outer edge of the side panels. That or, more likely, a set of slots/holes in the top panels that I can hook or tie to. No added weight or thickness, and it wouldn't cost anything.

 

[Grateful1]

Yeah, great tip for anyone planning to make an enclosure. I've made cardboard "templates" for various projects, and it works pretty well. I still cut a little light though, so I can trim the actual material to the specific fit that I want.

Really good job on the box. I would like to see your next evolution of the box in the form of aluminum.

Sponsored