Clayton 1 1/2" install

[ejewels]

Looks great! it will settle a bit more and then if you have steel bumper and winch in the plan, then you are better off keeping the 1/2" pucks.

Part of the reason why you have the feeling that you got more lift is because you also moved to the high clearance rubicon fender (I didnt do that). I have the same lift with fox shocks, I added the 1/2" teraflex spacers on all 4 corners. The front needed it and was evident after bumper+winch - I lost about 1/2" of clearance. I contemplated removing them on the rear, but when im fully loaded for camping, I dont have the reverse rake and it stays level. I loved that, so hence left all the spacers in there. When not loaded the forward rake is a good thing and helps with on-road (as intended from factory).

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Note: For others considering this lift, I highly recommend the FOX 2.0 shocks (2-3" lift version). This shock's travel and valving is the perfect pairing to the high spring rate of Clayton - giving you a firm ride yet soaks up small bumps and corrugated roads. Falcons are great but they are firmer than the FOX shocks even at their soft setting. Bilstein 5100s are good shocks but the additional 400-ish spent on FOX will definitely help with the ride quality.

hey man I’m thinking of the ride rite 1.5” kit they sell. I can always upgrade later to overland. Anyways, I’m in a 2021 JLU Willy’s with the Rubi shocks and sport springs. I understand this kit gives non-rubicons more like 2-2.5” of lift? I’m sticking with 33s so don’t want too much lift. Also, what size fox shocks? The kit says 1.5” lift but Insaw you said 2-3” versions?

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[GrayWolf.Overland]

hey man I’m thinking of the ride rite 1.5” kit they sell. I can always upgrade later to overland. Anyways, I’m in a 2021 JLU Willy’s with the Rubi shocks and sport springs. I understand this kit gives non-rubicons more like 2-2.5” of lift? I’m sticking with 33s so don’t want too much lift. Also, what size fox shocks? The kit says 1.5” lift but Insaw you said 2-3” versions?

Clayton has clearly stated (in another post on the forum) that they provide around +1 inch on the front (to remove factory rake) and +0.5 on the rear to give you more lift than advertised.

On a gas JLU Non-Rubicon trim you'll end up at about 2.5" front lift and 2" rear. If you have steel bumper and winch, the linear rated 1.5" front coil (160lb/in) will compress about 0.5" for sure. If you only want to run 33s ever then don't add any more spacer.. you'll be fine. If you are going to be contemplating 34s or smaller 35s like KO2, those 0.5" spacers will help.

Here's a picture of my previous Jeep on Clayton 1.5 coils, 0.5" spacers on all 4 corners, still on 33s general grabber atx. If you feel that's a bit much on tire to fender gap, then skip the spacer.. If not put on the spacers.

The compressed length specs on the Fox 0-1.5" version and 2-3" version are not too far off, hence Clayton recommended to run the 2-3" version for the extra droop on the same coil. Clayton 1.5 and 2.5 coils lengths are only 0.75" difference and the lift is coming from the spring rate.. So even with the additional droop, you are far away from any risk of spring unseating. Make sure you add teraflex 1" bump stop in the front and 2" in the rear, in case you have negative offset wheels.

On 35s (KO2 they run a bit small and light)

 

[ejewels]

Clayton has clearly stated (in another post on the forum) that they provide around +1 inch on the front (to remove factory rake) and +0.5 on the rear to give you more lift than advertised.

On a gas JLU Non-Rubicon trim you'll end up at about 2.5" front lift and 2" rear. If you have steel bumper and winch, the linear rated 1.5" front coil (160lb/in) will compress about 0.5" for sure. If you only want to run 33s ever then don't add any more spacer.. you'll be fine. If you are going to be contemplating 34s or smaller 35s like KO2, those 0.5" spacers will help.

Here's a picture of my previous Jeep on Clayton 1.5 coils, 0.5" spacers on all 4 corners, still on 33s general grabber atx. If you feel that's a bit much on tire to fender gap, then skip the spacer.. If not put on the spacers.

The compressed length specs on the Fox 0-1.5" version and 2-3" version are not too far off, hence Clayton recommended to run the 2-3" version for the extra droop on the same coil. Clayton 1.5 and 2.5 coils lengths are only 0.75" difference and the lift is coming from the spring rate.. So even with the additional droop, you are far away from any risk of spring unseating. Make sure you add teraflex 1" bump stop in the front and 2" in the rear, in case you have negative offset wheels.

On 35s (KO2 they run a bit small and light)

Thanks for this big reply, very helpful. Your rig looks great with both tire sizes. I have a couple questions for you or anyone that can help, if you don't mind:

1) Do I need anything else other than the ride right kit and new shocks? Bumpstops or anything? I'm just gonna run the 33's for now. I also have the lower mopar LCAs since I was going to go a spacer route but since changed my mind. Would adding those make sense, or should I just return them?

2) Can I use my existing willys moab wheels? Same specs as the rubi wheels. Only running 33s, but I hear that some people need 4.75 BS on some lift kits. Never really understood why...

3) Shocks- I'm already spending $600 for the install from a reputable jeep shop. So with the $1500 kit I'm already at $2100 parts and labor. $2000 WAS my limit lol. Can I run billy 5100s and still enjoy this setup? Or should I really spring for the fox 2.0s?

4) My willys came with the soft top from the factory, which equals softer springs. But I've since added a hard top. This slightly sagged the rear. However, Since I'll have a whole new suspension setup including the springs this should be nullified, correct? Sort of like starting over, so to speak.

Much appreciated!

 

[GrayWolf.Overland]

Thanks for this big reply, very helpful. Your rig looks great with both tire sizes. I have a couple questions for you or anyone that can help, if you don't mind:

1) Do I need anything else other than the ride right kit and new shocks? Bumpstops or anything? I'm just gonna run the 33's for now. I also have the lower mopar LCAs since I was going to go a spacer route but since changed my mind. Would adding those make sense, or should I just return them?

2) Can I use my existing willys moab wheels? Same specs as the rubi wheels. Only running 33s, but I hear that some people need 4.75 BS on some lift kits. Never really understood why...

3) Shocks- I'm already spending $600 for the install from a reputable jeep shop. So with the $1500 kit I'm already at $2100 parts and labor. $2000 WAS my limit lol. Can I run billy 5100s and still enjoy this setup? Or should I really spring for the fox 2.0s?

4) My willys came with the soft top from the factory, which equals softer springs. But I've since added a hard top. This slightly sagged the rear. However, Since I'll have a whole new suspension setup including the springs this should be nullified, correct? Sort of like starting over, so to speak.

Much appreciated!

1. TBH i only bought the coils and track bars. I used the sway bar links from the mopar 2" lift and the LCA from the mopar 2" lift. I had already got the sway bar links and LCA in anticipation for a spacer lift, then later decided to go for coil lift. I will highly recommend the adjustable track bars - that imho is a necessity for 2+ inches of lift.
2. For 33s you will be ok as is. If you went to 35s or 34s with wider width (12.5") you will get a slight rub on the LCA at full lock. I did not see any rub with 33s even with sway bars disconnected. I might have a video somewhere of 33s with lift and sway bar disconnected (Apex autolynx) - this one might help @1:50 -
3. 5100 is stiff as f.. I'd rather use shock relocation and save up for Fox rather than use the 5100. If you had softer springs like JKS or Synergy, the 5100 might be a good option (softer spring, fimer shock).. given that Clayton makes some of the highest rate springs in the industry, you would not want to run digressive valving shocks unless they are adjustable. Fox 2.0 set is $900 ish in the US.. if that going to push you out of budget, look for a 392 XR take off shock (olive sticker) in the interim.
4. You are going to put new springs on, so that doesnt matter. Clayton has high spring rate and I was never able to sag the rear with all the gear I use to carry in my prev jeep.

 

[ejewels]

1. TBH i only bought the coils and track bars. I used the sway bar links from the mopar 2" lift and the LCA from the mopar 2" lift. I had already got the sway bar links and LCA in anticipation for a spacer lift, then later decided to go for coil lift. I will highly recommend the adjustable track bars - that imho is a necessity for 2+ inches of lift.
2. For 33s you will be ok as is. If you went to 35s or 34s with wider width (12.5") you will get a slight rub on the LCA at full lock. I did not see any rub with 33s even with sway bars disconnected. I might have a video somewhere of 33s with lift and sway bar disconnected (Apex autolynx) - this one might help @1:50 -
3. 5100 is stiff as f.. I'd rather use shock relocation and save up for Fox rather than use the 5100. If you had softer springs like JKS or Synergy, the 5100 might be a good option (softer spring, fimer shock).. given that Clayton makes some of the highest rate springs in the industry, you would not want to run digressive valving shocks unless they are adjustable. Fox 2.0 set is $900 ish in the US.. if that going to push you out of budget, look for a 392 XR take off shock (olive sticker) in the interim.
4. You are going to put new springs on, so that doesnt matter. Clayton has high spring rate and I was never able to sag the rear with all the gear I use to carry in my prev jeep.

Thanks man. Guess I'll bite the bullet and go fox 2.0. So definitely order the 2-3" fox shocks, even with a non rubicon? I always am weary with this stuff since all lifts are usually based off a rubi.

You've also peaked my interest (as well as this thread where the guy made a frakenlift). I already have the mopar LCAs. If I just bought the 1.5 clayton springs... could I just buy any trackbar? Same with sway bar endlinks. Can these be had cheaper from other mfgs? Don't tell Clayton (lol) but wondering if I could recreate their 1500 ride right system for cheaper while using their springs and the mopar LCAs. Guess the question is do the upper control arms they supply do better than the mopar LCAs. I might just get the whole kit, but if I could save a lot of coin, I'd just go this franken lift route.

 

[GrayWolf.Overland]

Thanks man. Guess I'll bite the bullet and go fox 2.0. So definitely order the 2-3" fox shocks, even with a non rubicon? I always am weary with this stuff since all lifts are usually based off a rubi.

You've also peaked my interest (as well as this thread where the guy made a frakenlift). I already have the mopar LCAs. If I just bought the 1.5 clayton springs... could I just buy any trackbar? Same with sway bar endlinks. Can these be had cheaper from other mfgs? Don't tell Clayton (lol) but wondering if I could recreate their 1500 ride right system for cheaper while using their springs and the mopar LCAs. Guess the question is do the upper control arms they supply do better than the mopar LCAs. I might just get the whole kit, but if I could save a lot of coin, I'd just go this franken lift route.

yeah 2-3" version all the way.. just throw in a 1" bump stop to the front.. then you are good. either drill a hockey puck or get the teraflex 1" front bump stop.. or the clayton 1.25" front bump stop.. best $30 to save your fenders and saveyour shocks from bottoming out

Yes you can buy just the springs and source the trackbar from JKS, metalcloak or even rough country - if you are ok to do that as short term thing.

I actually did only the rear track bar from them If i remember.. I actually scored a frontmetalcloak take-off/near-new trackbar from someone who didnt like the bling showing up in the front.

in terms of geometry, neither the upper arms nor the mopar arms are a full solution.. best thing is to keep the stock control arms and install a JKS or Rancho geometry correction bracket.. that puts the caster right where it was stock and reduces the nose dive when braking

 

[ejewels]

yeah 2-3" version all the way.. just throw in a 1" bump stop to the front.. then you are good. either drill a hockey puck or get the teraflex 1" front bump stop.. or the clayton 1.25" front bump stop.. best $30 to save your fenders and saveyour shocks from bottoming out

Yes you can buy just the springs and source the trackbar from JKS, metalcloak or even rough country - if you are ok to do that as short term thing.

I actually did only the rear track bar from them If i remember.. I actually scored a frontmetalcloak take-off/near-new trackbar from someone who didnt like the bling showing up in the front.

in terms of geometry, neither the upper arms nor the mopar arms are a full solution.. best thing is to keep the stock control arms and install a JKS or Rancho geometry correction bracket.. that puts the caster right where it was stock and reduces the nose dive when braking

OK thanks. Are the bumpstops necessary even if I do the full kit (no frakenlift), or just a nice-to-have? I don't see clayton recommending them at all on the product page so thats why I'm asking.

And for the fox shocks, they are the 2.0 IFP monotubes? And I order 2 fronts and 2 rears?

 

[GrayWolf.Overland]

OK thanks. Are the bumpstops necessary even if I do the full kit (no frakenlift), or just a nice-to-have? I don't see clayton recommending them at all on the product page so thats why I'm asking.

And for the fox shocks, they are the 2.0 IFP monotubes? And I order 2 fronts and 2 rears?

They are necessary only if you are doing extreme rutted and flexed forward runs.. you'll hear a rat-a-tat with the edge of the tire trying to fight the lower 2 plastic rivets on the fender edges where the mud flaps would be.

 

[GrayWolf.Overland]

OK thanks. Are the bumpstops necessary even if I do the full kit (no frakenlift), or just a nice-to-have? I don't see clayton recommending them at all on the product page so thats why I'm asking.

And for the fox shocks, they are the 2.0 IFP monotubes? And I order 2 fronts and 2 rears?

On this video


See from 17:03 onwards - thats the part where the rat-a-tat happens at full flex and twist and if you have still keep moving forward. Im sure you can hear that in the video :D
bare in mind this was 35s.. so you might not have that problem. I solved it by throwing on a 1" front bump stop.. but when i was on 33s I never needed that.

See 3:37 - for where it will kiss the rear inner fender liners where that bulged box thingy is

 

[ejewels]

Clayton recommends the Fox 2.0’s for 2 to 3 inches of lift and that’s what I used.
At full droop my springs were firmly in the perches but then I also added 1/2 inch spacers because I thought I might need a little more lift. I believe that without the spacers, the springs will still be retained properly.
Ultimately I got more lift than I thought I would and am now on the fence as to whether I will leave them or take them out.

these 33's or 35's? Also what wheels? Love the look.

 

[LiVinIt]

these 33's or 35's? Also what wheels? Love the look.

Thanks! KO2 35’s on AEV Saltas

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