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Fuel Fire Desire

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I've been going round and round what to get for communication on trails. Can you recommend the "A basic UHF/VHF radio"?

A 2m/70cm transceiver. A decent mobile chinese model like I have will cost you about $100. I have the Anytone AT-778UV, which has a full color display and 25w of output. Paired to a good antenna with a good setup, you can reach WAY out there compared to CB (I get 40 miles out of my Anytone, and maybe 4 miles with my legal CB)

1000.jpg


The antenna I use is a pricey, but good, Comet 2x4SR. It both folds and has a built in spring. The thing is made of thick steel rods, and does not like to bend. So The spring and fold over feature are rather necessary for use in the woods. There are smaller, cheaper, and more flexible options out there, but I doubt you'd get anywhere near the performance as this 3' Comet. Its marketed for search and rescue vehicles. Antenna choice is almost more important than radio choice.


$65 for the base model, and the spring is an extra $30.

https://powerwerx.com/antenna-ultra-wide-dual-band

ultra-wide-coverage-vhfuhf-dual-band-antenna-for-public-safety-and-amateur-radio__2547_580.jpg





Other radios are available without the pretty display, and with the addition of the 1.25m band for about the same price. That way, you have three entire bands to legally talk on with your Technician license. 1.25m is an odd duck band, as its only legal in north america, so the japanese manufacturers don't really make radios for it, but its starting to become popular since its "the best of both worlds" between 2m and 70cm here. Chinese radios are becoming fairly common now thanks to Baofeng. These chinese radios are "more open" than they should be, and will allow you to transmit outside of the HAM band limits. My Anytone is pre programed to disallow transmissions outside of band, but the lockout can be disabled when you program the frequency list.

I leave mine "unlocked", as the unit can talk on anything from FRS (the cheap walkie talkie band) to GMRS (the nice/ business band walkies) to MURS to Marine, and even the upper portion of the Air band (specifically ATIS and center control frequencies), the NOAA weather band, as well as search/ rescue, and un-trunked police and fire. Keep in mind, I DONT talk on those bands, but I have the ability to if I need to (emergencies).



  • just a word of warning...... the JL is EXTREMELY noisy in the 2m band when its running and in drive. I think the ECU or BCU throws out a lot of interference. Because of this, I almost always run UHF (70cm) when driving around, and only jump on VHF (2m) when Im stopped.
VHF typically gets you more range, while UHF typically "penetrates" better. The basic rule is to use VHF in the country, and UHF in the city. The 1.25m band is smack in between the two, and supposedly is a nice hybrid between each's strengths. (I don't use it, so I don't have any first hand knowledge). The 40 mile range I mentioned I was getting was on the 70cm band at 25w talking to a repeater on the highest building in michigan. Line of sight is everything, and my antenna and repeater choices are optimal to achieve that range.
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bbuck7777

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A 2m/70cm transceiver. A decent mobile chinese model like I have will cost you about $100. I have the Anytone AT-778UV, which has a full color display and 25w of output. Paired to a good antenna with a good setup, you can reach WAY out there compared to CB (I get 40 miles out of my Anytone, and maybe 4 miles with my legal CB)

1000.jpg


The antenna I use is a pricey, but good, Comet 2x4SR. It both folds and has a built in spring. The thing is made of thick steel rods, and does not like to bend. So The spring and fold over feature are rather necessary for use in the woods. There are smaller, cheaper, and more flexible options out there, but I doubt you'd get anywhere near the performance as this 3' Comet. Its marketed for search and rescue vehicles. Antenna choice is almost more important than radio choice.


$65 for the base model, and the spring is an extra $30.

https://powerwerx.com/antenna-ultra-wide-dual-band

ultra-wide-coverage-vhfuhf-dual-band-antenna-for-public-safety-and-amateur-radio__2547_580.jpg





Other radios are available without the pretty display, and with the addition of the 1.25m band for about the same price. That way, you have three entire bands to legally talk on with your Technician license. 1.25m is an odd duck band, as its only legal in north america, so the japanese manufacturers don't really make radios for it, but its starting to become popular since its "the best of both worlds" between 2m and 70cm here. Chinese radios are becoming fairly common now thanks to Baofeng. These chinese radios are "more open" than they should be, and will allow you to transmit outside of the HAM band limits. My Anytone is pre programed to disallow transmissions outside of band, but the lockout can be disabled when you program the frequency list.

I leave mine "unlocked", as the unit can talk on anything from FRS (the cheap walkie talkie band) to GMRS (the nice/ business band walkies) to MURS to Marine, and even the upper portion of the Air band (specifically ATIS and center control frequencies), the NOAA weather band, as well as search/ rescue, and un-trunked police and fire. Keep in mind, I DONT talk on those bands, but I have the ability to if I need to (emergencies).



  • just a word of warning...... the JL is EXTREMELY noisy in the 2m band when its running and in drive. I think the ECU or BCU throws out a lot of interference. Because of this, I almost always run UHF (70cm) when driving around, and only jump on VHF (2m) when Im stopped.
VHF typically gets you more range, while UHF typically "penetrates" better. The basic rule is to use VHF in the country, and UHF in the city. The 1.25m band is smack in between the two, and supposedly is a nice hybrid between each's strengths. (I don't use it, so I don't have any first hand knowledge). The 40 mile range I mentioned I was getting was on the 70cm band at 25w talking to a repeater on the highest building in michigan. Line of sight is everything, and my antenna and repeater choices are optimal to achieve that range.
Thanks! I'll check this out.
 

MyDaughters20JL

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Fellow JL Owners - We are in the last stages of finalizing a very trick, all stainless steel Antenna Mount for the new JL. We have a couple of prototypes in hand and we are just collecting a bit more information on on various spare tire sizes and common aftermarket mounts so that we can insure that we will have a mount that will work for most configurations... and will continue to work for YOU as you may make future modifications to your JL. The mount will offer conventional 3' of 4' fiberglass antenna mounting as well as compatibility for NMO mounts for the HAM guys. Stay-tuned as I will try to post updates in this thread. Our objective is to have availability before the end of April.
I know this is an older thread, but I'm finding, quite literally, that what you say and reality are 2 completely different things. I have the rugged ridge tailgate reinforcement & this particular antenna mount will NOT fit due to the location/offset of the bolts: I emailed not only my question, but images of the offset and the reinforcement.....crickets!
I'd love to get an all in one kit with an antenna mount that fits the RR reinforcement, but until one is found, I'm taking a hard pass, no matter how intriguing it may sound
 

CoolTech

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I know this is an older thread, but I'm finding, quite literally, that what you say and reality are 2 completely different things. I have the rugged ridge tailgate reinforcement & this particular antenna mount will NOT fit due to the location/offset of the bolts: I emailed not only my question, but images of the offset and the reinforcement.....crickets!
I'd love to get an all in one kit with an antenna mount that fits the RR reinforcement, but until one is found, I'm taking a hard pass, no matter how intriguing it may sound
We've had our CB antenna mount out for the JL for almost 2 years and it works for the OEM tailgate and for those using the MOPAR tailgate reinforcement kit. I'm sorry ours doesn't appear to work with the Rugged Ridge reinforcement. Also, we recently introduced a stainless steel front-mount antenna bracket that can be mounted on either side of the Jeep (at the cowl) and which works equally well for CB and GMRS antennas.
 

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Gmanjeeper

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I installed my cool tech kit last weekend and it works amazing! It is my fist install, so bear with me as I get better at this and taking the right pictures (and if I made a mistake please let me know, grounding was my only concern but I think I got it).... but as far as I know and functionality, it works great. I already went out to hit some trails with the San Diego Jeep club in Big Bear and the communication was perfect! So here it goes....

Jeep Wrangler JL CB Antenna Mount Needed! ED6BB1FE-977D-4519-A6E1-646B0E4BD27D


Jeep Wrangler JL CB Antenna Mount Needed! ED6BB1FE-977D-4519-A6E1-646B0E4BD27D


Jeep Wrangler JL CB Antenna Mount Needed! ED6BB1FE-977D-4519-A6E1-646B0E4BD27D


Jeep Wrangler JL CB Antenna Mount Needed! ED6BB1FE-977D-4519-A6E1-646B0E4BD27D


Jeep Wrangler JL CB Antenna Mount Needed! ED6BB1FE-977D-4519-A6E1-646B0E4BD27D


Jeep Wrangler JL CB Antenna Mount Needed! ED6BB1FE-977D-4519-A6E1-646B0E4BD27D


Jeep Wrangler JL CB Antenna Mount Needed! ED6BB1FE-977D-4519-A6E1-646B0E4BD27D


Jeep Wrangler JL CB Antenna Mount Needed! ED6BB1FE-977D-4519-A6E1-646B0E4BD27D


Jeep Wrangler JL CB Antenna Mount Needed! ED6BB1FE-977D-4519-A6E1-646B0E4BD27D


Jeep Wrangler JL CB Antenna Mount Needed! ED6BB1FE-977D-4519-A6E1-646B0E4BD27D


Jeep Wrangler JL CB Antenna Mount Needed! ED6BB1FE-977D-4519-A6E1-646B0E4BD27D


Jeep Wrangler JL CB Antenna Mount Needed! ED6BB1FE-977D-4519-A6E1-646B0E4BD27D


Jeep Wrangler JL CB Antenna Mount Needed! ED6BB1FE-977D-4519-A6E1-646B0E4BD27D


Jeep Wrangler JL CB Antenna Mount Needed! ED6BB1FE-977D-4519-A6E1-646B0E4BD27D


Jeep Wrangler JL CB Antenna Mount Needed! ED6BB1FE-977D-4519-A6E1-646B0E4BD27D
Looks like you installed the silver box kind of underneath the dash, correct? Where did you attach the ground? Most suggest using a lug behind the passenger side kick panel. This looks ok, but it appears that it would be kind of a pain to take off the panel. I am looking, without success so far, for a ground point behind the glove box or under the dashin the glove box area.
 

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Looks like you installed the silver box kind of underneath the dash, correct? Where did you attach the ground? Most suggest using a lug behind the passenger side kick panel. This looks ok, but it appears that it would be kind of a pain to take off the panel. I am looking, without success so far, for a ground point behind the glove box or under the dashin the glove box area.
You’ll want to use the studs behind the panel. The milliohm bond they’ll have with the studs on the passenger fender by the battery is the best you’ll get from inside the cab unless you run a negative cable. It’s also best to make sure you’re bonded to the ground plane or as close to it as possible. Less interference or static issues this way.
 

Gmanjeeper

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You’ll want to use the studs behind the panel. The milliohm bond they’ll have with the studs on the passenger fender by the battery is the best you’ll get from inside the cab unless you run a negative cable. It’s also best to make sure you’re bonded to the ground plane or as close to it as possible. Less interference or static issues this way.
Thanks for your very quick response. I will follow your advice and figure out how to take the panel off so I can get access to that stud for grounding. I think I have found a good place to mount the silver box behind my glove box tucked up kind of on the left side. I had a JTR (and now have a JLR) and this worked on the JT. Also I plan to tie the power (red) cord from the silver box into the fifth or sixth (red) wire in the auxillary wire bundle which goes directly to the battery. Thanks again.
 

Gmanjeeper

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You’ll want to use the studs behind the panel. The milliohm bond they’ll have with the studs on the passenger fender by the battery is the best you’ll get from inside the cab unless you run a negative cable. It’s also best to make sure you’re bonded to the ground plane or as close to it as possible. Less interference or static issues this way.
One more question. I am looking at either a polished aluminum or stainless steel antenna mount for my rear tailgate. Do you have an opinion as to whether one material is better than the other? The stainless mount is almost twice as much, but if it is better I will go that direction. I also plan on using either a three ft or four ft Firestik.
 

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chevymitchell

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Thanks for your very quick response. I will follow your advice and figure out how to take the panel off so I can get access to that stud for grounding. I think I have found a good place to mount the silver box behind my glove box tucked up kind of on the left side. I had a JTR (and now have a JLR) and this worked on the JT. Also I plan to tie the power (red) cord from the silver box into the fifth or sixth (red) wire in the auxillary wire bundle which goes directly to the battery. Thanks again.
The panel isn't too bad. Just don't break the door connector.
  1. Disconnect door connector
  2. Using a body clip tool, remove the body side connector from its mount
  3. Using a 10mm, remove the nut. (Directly beside the connector.)
  4. Pull panel loose from all connections. Make sure to push on the sill portion directly inboard. Do not pull up. You'll break the clips.
  5. Perform happy dance.
Ground studs are 10mm, as well. There should be a completely empty one there waiting for you.
 

chevymitchell

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One more question. I am looking at either a polished aluminum or stainless steel antenna mount for my rear tailgate. Do you have an opinion as to whether one material is better than the other? The stainless mount is almost twice as much, but if it is better I will go that direction. I also plan on using either a three ft or four ft Firestik.
I'd go with the stainless. I'd also stick to a 3ft with the FireStick quick disconnect.
 

Gmanjeeper

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I'd go with the stainless. I'd also stick to a 3ft with the FireStick quick disconnect.
Have you used the heavy duty spring? I see advantages and disadvantages. In the pas I have used a tennis ball for when the antenna mount hacks the hard top.
 

chevymitchell

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Have you used the heavy duty spring? I see advantages and disadvantages. In the pas I have used a tennis ball for when the antenna mount hacks the hard top.
I used to use the springs, but are just too noisy for my liking and they were always too tall even for a 3ft. antenna with the quick disconnect. I also used a tennis ball. Always handy to have.
 

Gmanjeeper

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I used to use the springs, but are just too noisy for my liking and they were always too tall even for a 3ft. antenna with the quick disconnect. I also used a tennis ball. Always handy to have.
Did you put A ground strap on the tailgate?
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