Can bus block question

[Mack.]

You can find the blocks on ebay. Remove the old ones and the part number is on them. The green one is cheap. It's the white one that is spendy. That one controls the main diagnostics. The green one is for radio, dome light ect

I can not get the wires unplugged. Years of working on hundreds of electrical connections of every type and there is no visible way to release them.

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[fuelfox4949]

I can not get the wires unplugged. Years of working on hundreds of electrical connections of every type and there is no visible way to release them.

Slide a narror screwdriver between the tab and connector, you have to push it hard down so it unhooks the clip.
I thought i was going to break it but it released the wire.
After you have 1 done the rest are nothing

 

[Mack.]

Slide a narror screwdriver between the tab and connector, you have to push it hard down so it unhooks the clip.
I thought i was going to break it but it released the wire.
After you have 1 done the rest are nothing

Thank you, I will give that a try.

 

[CaJLMetalHead]

I can not get the wires unplugged. Years of working on hundreds of electrical connections of every type and there is no visible way to release them.

At around 5:29 you kind of see how this guy does it.. it seems the connector has a latching tab that you have to push with a small screwdriver

 

[redracer]

Also, if any of the connectors are corroded or damaged, we know the Mouser part numbers to order just the replacement connectors with the crimp on pins. That's in the Can Bus Hacking thread.

 

[CaJLMetalHead]

in another video you see how this guy is pushing the tab towards the center of the connector with a very small screwdriver or pick

 

[CaJLMetalHead]

Also... on an unrelated but important note... below is a photo of the connectors in my JLU... I drive topless-doorless year long ... notice how filthy the unused connector sockets get over time... the product of driving in sand, dirt, snow, muddy conditions, etc... these CAN Bus connectors are certainly exposed to the elements... which would certainly cause issues if enough crud gets in them causing corrosion and short-circuit conditions.... I think I am going to seal the unused sockets with something.. perhaps a dab of dielectric grease + Gorilla or Gaffer tape..

How did I find out about this?.. .I was playing with the CAN Bus yesterday... LOL

 

[Mack.]

in another video you see how this guy is pushing the tab towards the center of the connector with a very small screwdriver or pick

Thank you so very much. Most of these tricks are top secret and few are willing to share. This Jeep is actually rougher than my 01 Supercharged Vanden Plas. The more goodies the worse they are

 

[Mack.]

Also, if any of the connectors are corroded or damaged, we know the Mouser part numbers to order just the replacement connectors with the crimp on pins. That's in the Can Bus Hacking thread.

Thank you. New can bus in and doing fine. What next LOL

 

[Mack.]

Also... on an unrelated but important note... below is a photo of the connectors in my JLU... I drive topless-doorless year long ... notice how filthy the unused connector sockets get over time... the product of driving in sand, dirt, snow, muddy conditions, etc... these CAN Bus connectors are certainly exposed to the elements... which would certainly cause issues if enough crud gets in them causing corrosion and short-circuit conditions.... I think I am going to seal the unused sockets with something.. perhaps a dab of dielectric grease + Gorilla or Gaffer tape..

How did I find out about this?.. .I was playing with the CAN Bus yesterday... LOL

At around 5:29 you kind of see how this guy does it.. it seems the connector has a latching tab that you have to push with a small screwdriver

Ok, can bus in and do what it should. This has been a work in progress since 1/26/23 3 days after I bought it. It is my daily driver and I have put 1400 miles since I bought it. I WILL NEVER SELL MY 2000 Sahara NEVER. I need it to tow the 2018 home.

 

[CaJLMetalHead]

Ok, can bus in and do what it should. This has been a work in progress since 1/26/23 3 days after I bought it. It is my daily driver and I have put 1400 miles since I bought it. I WILL NEVER SELL MY 2000 Sahara NEVER. I need it to tow the 2018 home.

Hey Mack... I am not sure I understand what you are trying to say here.. slowly step away from the bottle of Bourbon... LOL

 

[Mack.]

Hey Mack... I am not sure I understand what you are trying to say here.. slowly step away from the bottle of Bourbon... LOL

No booze or drugs, ever. I just spent another day with my constant nightmare. It has had over $3500 in repairs since I purchased this Carfax dream machine. One female owner 72k miles perfect service records. All service was done where she bought it new. If you truly love your Wrangler Sport S JL, and for some perverted reason I do, you would never let it be towed home by a Ford or Chevy. So for that reason, I won't part with the old 2000 Sahara, she can flat-toe home the JL with pride. I must admit that even with all the trouble the JL has given me it never stranded me along the road., I tried that little tab in the beginning but it wasn't working and I didn't want to start breaking things so I asked for help. Thank you for the help. Now I am ready for the next chapter LOL. Have a great day!

 

[Jtcal78]

So I have thought long about moving the can buss blocks. And using a small plastic container that could possibly fit them inside so they can be sealed up. It's a crap shoot

 

[jessedacri]

I got a bit to deep in a water hole and it was wet.
Also have to replace the body control module, that should be here Saturday.
I'll be doing a write up when i get it all back together and cleaned up.
Drained all oils, pulled plugs, seats and carpet out and getting washed.

What were your symptoms and how did you narrow it down to the body control module, or was your rig totally disabled from the water?

I'm getting intermittent dashboard craziness where like twice a day now the CAN BUS seems to short out entirely and I get all sorts of check engine codes and "Service 4WD system! Service Anti Lock brake system! Service shifter! Sway bar disconnect unavailable! Service electronic stability system!" alerts and the shifter won't come out of park. It's always come out of it after a minute or two but sometimes it's done it while driving and I'm at the point of constantly having a check engine light. Sometimes this happens on startup too and the engine won't crank on the first push (just sends the Jeep to "ON" mode as if I wasn't hitting the brake while starting).

I just got back from Southern Utah last month where I ran Rattlesnake Gulch three times in a week and was told that it was unusually deep due to the runoff this year. I never had water in the cab though, kept it moving through all the crossings and I am certainly no stranger to crossings like that. Going to start with replacing the two CAN BUS routers/arrays behind the glove box and hope for the best. I have a hunch I caught a mouse while backcountry camping in UT and am worried it chewed something on the harness.

 

[fuelfox4949]

What were your symptoms and how did you narrow it down to the body control module, or was your rig totally disabled from the water?

I'm getting intermittent dashboard craziness where like twice a day now the CAN BUS seems to short out entirely and I get all sorts of check engine codes and "Service 4WD system! Service Anti Lock brake system! Service shifter! Sway bar disconnect unavailable! Service electronic stability system!" alerts and the shifter won't come out of park. It's always come out of it after a minute or two but sometimes it's done it while driving and I'm at the point of constantly having a check engine light. Sometimes this happens on startup too and the engine won't crank on the first push (just sends the Jeep to "ON" mode as if I wasn't hitting the brake while starting).

I just got back from Southern Utah last month where I ran Rattlesnake Gulch three times in a week and was told that it was unusually deep due to the runoff this year. I never had water in the cab though, kept it moving through all the crossings and I am certainly no stranger to crossings like that. Going to start with replacing the two CAN BUS routers/arrays behind the glove box and hope for the best. I have a hunch I caught a mouse while backcountry camping in UT and am worried it chewed something on the harness.

have you pulled any codes from your jeep?
mine i got stuck in a deep water hole and water came through the passenger door and filled the passenger foot/wheel well.
i got pulled out and lost power to the rear half of the jeep and the dash was freaking out.
i had to replace the bcm because when i pulled it out it was wet and filled with gravel mud water and was shorted out.
i would start with the 2 blocks behind the glovebox, and also there are large harness connectors behind the driver and passenger wheel wells in the engine compartment. pull them apart and spray contact cleaner in them then dielectric grease.
save the bcm for last because after you install that it has to go to the dealer to get programmed.

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