Bushwacker Hyperform Trash?

[Joaquim]

Nope, they’re the same garbage plastic. I want to do the the mopar oem rubi flares but cost to buy is kind of high, and hard to find second hand. plus the cost of the chop.

exactly what I'm looking for, really disappointed to see rocks running through both the BW & RR fender flares they look really good and give the clearance/coverage I want.

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[CptFloridaMan]

exactly what I'm looking for, really disappointed to see rocks running through both the BW & RR fender flares they look really good and give the clearance/coverage I want.

I really love the look, i’m on my second set so far so knock on wood. If they changed the material to be a better plastic it could be way better. So i’m on a hunt for something similar with the coverage.

 

[Joaquim]

I really love the look, i’m on my second set so far so knock on wood. If they changed the material to be a better plastic it could be way better. So i’m on a hunt for something similar with the coverage.

How often do they get holes in them? And are they good about replacing it?

 

[CrossTx]

Are the RRs more durable than the BW? I'm looking for that exact look, trying to decide whether to get RRs, BW, or mopar high line and chop them.

I can’t say they are more durable, They look identical in every way looking at the fenders side x side. I just dont see these being different or more durable than the other (BW vs RR)

 

[DarkhorseJL]

Who swore by? I have Max Terrains because the Hyperforms had a lead time everywhere. Pretty sure they are the same thing in a different box.

Actually they are

 

[DarkhorseJL]

So this weekend, I installed my new fenders and fender liners and had a buddy of mine come help who runs the Max Terrains. Here’s the end result and a good comparison for everyone that is either deciding or worries about quality….

today, we went off roading on a fire trail then a back woods that was full of rocks, water crossings, deep mud and a tremendous amount of gravel that shot up and broke his mirror.We laughed only bc he had bought the new Oracle mirror mounted light bars and hadn’t installed them yet so he just damaged his factory mirror not the expensive new ones. (Thank God.)

Anyways, Friday and Saturday morning, we installed my fenders and wired up the new DRLs… took us roughly 3 hours to pull fenders, install the liners, mount up the BW fenders(front and rear) then wire up the lights as well as clear the codes via TazerJL so no hyper flash or “bulb out” warnings.

as we were doing this, we both noticed some particular, yet interesting “finds”. Yes, the RR are about $100 more versus the $600 for BW… he still has his full instructions incl the LED DRLs wiring info. Stamped on the fenders and various brackets on both our Jeeps was “Bushwacker” and part numbers matched except his had “RR” and mine had “BW” at the end. Both directions were the exact same except for the header and footnotes. But what really stuck out was even though his DRL mounts had the “Rugged Ridge” stamp and mine has “Bushwacker”,the only difference was that my DRLs are tinted and his aren’t but both had “Rugged Ridge” embossed on the light housings. At first, my fenders, once the engine got to temp and idled, were flimsy right at the grille when we went to dinner Friday but once we mounted the DRLs, they were very sturdy and rigid. So as far as the price discrepancy, that was the only difference, other than that, they are the same down to part numbers and even the customer service chat forum used the same interface (we ran into a small hiccup when it came to directions for the mount closest to the door in front since the part and holes didn’t exactly line up per the directions included). Basically, after some extensive research, we found that it’s the same parent company.

 

[DarkhorseJL]

Are the RRs more durable than the BW? I'm looking for that exact look, trying to decide whether to get RRs, BW, or mopar high line and chop them.

The MOOAR High Line are expensive and you get more than you need BUT zigs covered under Jeeps factory warranty just like if you opted for the 2” MOPAR lift. As far as RR or BW, read my last post I made today.

 

[CrossTx]

Dang already breaking the new ones ?

 

[CrummyArchitect]

Man this is crazy, I've had my BW ones on for a year now, and they have seen trails and gravel roads and I have not experienced any damage like this (the holes from rocks). Besides the poor fitment of the fronts with the gap next to the fender vents, I've been satisfied with them.

 

[Jtclayton612]

I’ve had mine on for almost a year as well and I hadn’t realized this was a problem, plenty of gravel roads and a trip to Hot springs ORV and Windrock and they look great. I got rugged ridge.

 

[DarkhorseJL]

Man this is crazy, I've had my BW ones on for a year now, and they have seen trails and gravel roads and I have not experienced any damage like this (the holes from rocks). Besides the poor fitment of the fronts with the gap next to the fender vents, I've been satisfied with them.

So im not the only one who’s noticed those “gaps” next to the vents, huh? the RR are the same issue though… I did a simple fix. I thought about buying the AAL fender flare retention kit but not for $120 (cost plus tax and STANDARD shipping to NC), so I bought the steel brackets for the M6 “washers” that completely replace the clips the BW came with via XT… I used 6 on either side and the gap is gone but added some stiffening to the fender connections. HUGE DIFFERENCE

https://www.extremeterrain.com/barr...hardware-kit-for-j132136-jlb-only-u2777h.html

 

[CrossTx]

So im not the only one who’s noticed those “gaps” next to the vents, huh? the RR are the same issue though… I did a simple fix. I thought about buying the AAL fender flare retention kit but not for $120 (cost plus tax and STANDARD shipping to NC), so I bought the steel brackets for the M6 “washers” that completely replace the clips the BW came with via XT… I used 6 on either side and the gap is gone but added some stiffening to the fender connections. HUGE DIFFERENCE

https://www.extremeterrain.com/barr...hardware-kit-for-j132136-jlb-only-u2777h.html

Thanks for sharing that!! I will definitely give that a shot. Maybe it will help them block some gravel without gettin perforated lol

im also back to shopping for something this clean looking but heavier duty

 

[CrummyArchitect]

So im not the only one who’s noticed those “gaps” next to the vents, huh? the RR are the same issue though… I did a simple fix. I thought about buying the AAL fender flare retention kit but not for $120 (cost plus tax and STANDARD shipping to NC), so I bought the steel brackets for the M6 “washers” that completely replace the clips the BW came with via XT… I used 6 on either side and the gap is gone but added some stiffening to the fender connections. HUGE DIFFERENCE

https://www.extremeterrain.com/barr...hardware-kit-for-j132136-jlb-only-u2777h.html

A 2nd "Thanks for sharing this" from me! I've looked at them multiple times trying to figure out a way I could attach the fender above and below the vents to close up the gap and just hadn't come up with anything yet. So I'm gonna try this fix as well!... also if you wouldn't mind I'd love to see a pic of the finished result from the underside of the flare.

 

[GATORB8]

Just a note on the steel hardware (I do have some because the MC inner fenders use some same locations) the specific reason we went with plastic fenders was because we’ve ripped fenders off on the trail. With our relatively low poke and wanting full coverage, I was concerned with major body damage with steel. I prefer the plastic body mounts because they are more likely to break before causing tub damage.

 

[DarkhorseJL]

Just so everyone can see for themselves… this is directly from Rugged Ridge customer service. Now why there’s still a $100 price difference is anyone’s guess. Sigh

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