Budget build advice

[lopab23]

Ok, I have a 2020 JLU Willy's which is my daily driver and I don't plan on much off-roading (if I do it won't be anything too crazy). I've seen several posts/comments about the rough country spacer lift kit being a decent budget option if you supplement it with the rubicon shocks and springs. Seems like this is the best way to go on a budget, but I have lots of questions, so here goes:

1. When they say shocks and springs, it that literally all I need from the rubicon? Are there any other small parts or what have you that I need for them to work in my stock suspension?

2. My Jeep has the blacked out MOAB wheels (I think that is what the style is called) that you see on current Willy's editions. If I do the RC 2.5 Suspension Lift Kit and Rubicon shocks/springs, I'm sure the wheels will look pretty small. The thing is, I really like the stock rims, so is it possible to just put a larger tire on it (I currently have Firestone M/T2, LT255/75R17). Even if I can stay with the stock wheel on a new tire, will I still need a spacer to push the tire a little further out from the body?

3. I'm a super-noob, so even though I hear sizes like "35 and "37, I have no idea what that size is compared to stock (honestly, I don't even know what the stock size is...32?...33?). If I moved up to a "35, would I have to get a different tire carrier to fit it? If that is the case, then would I also need tailgate reinforcement?

4. If I tried to do this on my own (if you've read this far, you should be very afraid...lol), wouldn't I still need a 4-wheel alignment and speedometer calibration? If I took it to a shop (I hear a lot of sighs of relief), how many hours in labor should I expect?

The more I look at this, the more I see the term "budget" as laughable...either that, or as usual I'm just waaaay over-complicating the issue...lololol :-p

Pablo

Sponsored

 

[WontonJLUR]

Ok, I have a 2020 JLU Willy's which is my daily driver and I don't plan on much off-roading (if I do it won't be anything too crazy). I've seen several posts/comments about the rough country spacer lift kit being a decent budget option if you supplement it with the rubicon shocks and springs. Seems like this is the best way to go on a budget, but I have lots of questions, so here goes:

1. When they say shocks and springs, it that literally all I need from the rubicon? Are there any other small parts or what have you that I need for them to work in my stock suspension?

2. My Jeep has the blacked out MOAB wheels (I think that is what the style is called) that you see on current Willy's editions. If I do the RC 2.5 Suspension Lift Kit and Rubicon shocks/springs, I'm sure the wheels will look pretty small. The thing is, I really like the stock rims, so is it possible to just put a larger tire on it (I currently have Firestone M/T2, LT255/75R17). Even if I can stay with the stock wheel on a new tire, will I still need a spacer to push the tire a little further out from the body?

3. I'm a super-noob, so even though I hear sizes like "35 and "37, I have no idea what that size is compared to stock (honestly, I don't even know what the stock size is...32?...33?). If I moved up to a "35, would I have to get a different tire carrier to fit it? If that is the case, then would I also need tailgate reinforcement?

4. If I tried to do this on my own (if you've read this far, you should be very afraid...lol), wouldn't I still need a 4-wheel alignment and speedometer calibration? If I took it to a shop (I hear a lot of sighs of relief), how many hours in labor should I expect?

The more I look at this, the more I see the term "budget" as laughable...either that, or as usual I'm just waaaay over-complicating the issue...lololol :-p

Pablo

1. Shocks and springs are all you NEED, but I'd also recommend a set of adjustable control arms in the front to correct your caster setting. (Plenty of youtube videos and forum posts explaining this). You will also eventually want adjustable track bars to re-center your axles.

2. Your wheels will be plenty fine, put a bigger tire on them. Different wheels/spacer can be used to push out the tire if that's the look that you want, but as long as you don't get a huge tire then you should be fine. I would go no bigger than a 35" tire in your case. You can also get tires in metric sizes that are about a 34.4" diameter but are narrower than a true 35" tire.

3. Your stock tires are about 32". (You can type "255/75R17 in inches" into Google and it'll tell you). The weight rating of the factory tire carrier is 85lbs, but several members here have exceeded that with a 35" tire and have been fine.

4. Doing any of this on your own isn't difficult, but might be more than you want to tackle if you have no experience with any of it (sounds like you don't). The preferred option (if you're interested in doing your own work) would be to find some knowledgeable people around you who can show you how to do this but still get it done the right way. You should get an alignment after you do this, but you don't necessarily NEED one. Your axles will shift slightly, and you'll lose some caster (again, Youtube). The alignment won't be able to do anything about your caster setting until you get adjustable control arms. So, if you DO NOT get adjustable control arms/adjustable track bars, the only thing the alignment is going to be able to do is to center your steering wheel.

You can do all of this on a "budget" but that term is extremely subjective since a given quantity of money has different value to different people. If you wanted to do this the "right" way, it would probably cost you close to 2k assuming you go with used Rubicon springs/shocks, new tires, adjustable control arms and adjustable front/rear track bar.

As far as the alignment goes, make sure you take it to a good shop who actually has experience manipulating track bars/control arms to correct your alignment. Shouldn't cost you too much, and the dealership should be able to flash your computer for the different tire size. You can also get a TazerJL that allows you to change your tire size yourself and gives you some other cool features.

 

[Wraif]

Nothing with a Jeep is EVER simple or budget. You are starting down a road from which there is NO RETURN.
1. if you are going with the spring spacers, which is just a polyurethane puck that gets mounted between the spring and the axle, you won’t need Rubicon springs. $ saved ! Nothing else needed except shocks. If you find that they limit travel, they shouldn’t, you can get shock extensions. Many cool offer them but won’t sell separately. Metalcloak will.
2. When you go up in tire size, the width also increases, usually.so you would need to run spacers to avoid rubbing. I wouldn’t run spacers on the wheels. It can be safe, if done right, but too much chance for a catastrophic failure. Besides, with the wider tire you need wider rims. Somebody will definitely say they know a guy who runs 37x12.5’s on stock rims and doesn’t have a problem. That’s either a mall crawler or he hasn’t had a problem YET !
3. I believe your Willy’s comes with about a 31 or 32 inch tire. Honestly, I don’t know what it comes with. But moving up to a 35 you will most likely need to do something about the spare. I’ve heard hat some guys leave them alone, and deal with it rubbing. Or, I bought a Teraflex spare tire mount relocation bracket. $130 no tailgate reinforcement needed.
4. Yes, you’ll need to have an alignment done, go to a shop that realizes that a lifted Jeep has different settings than a stock one. And again, yes, you’ll need to do something about recalibrating for the larger tires, go to Quadratec and do a search, anything from $169-$500+. Do your research on this, it depends on what else you want it to do.
All in all, not too tuff. Good luck

 

[Trill]

I wouldn't touch the suspension. Most people go that way but if you want to have a 100% factory ride and geometry I can help you out with the parts you will need to make this work, just let me know.

 

[Stuckinthesand]

I am running the RC 2.5” spacer kit in my 19 JLUS with 35”s.
1. You won’t need to do any kind of alignment nor get adjustable control arms or track bars. The axle sits just like stock as all you are doing is putting a puck in between the spring and perch.
2. You can go to a 315/70/17 tire on your stock tires which is essentially a 35” tire. The 315 allows for mounting on a 8.5” rim but if you go to a 35x11.5/12.5 you’ll need at least a 9” rim. As noted above you’ll need at least a 1.5” spacer for your stock wheels.
3. As far as spare tire get the RC relocation bracket and extend the spare tire bump stops to snugly touch the tire and you’ll be fine.
4. Don’t try it yourself. If you have a friend with mechanical experience see if they will help. It is not hard to install but you can damage some things that will be expensive to fix if not done correctly.
4. You won’t need an alignment as again your not changing any geometry other than the height of the spring pad. Yes you will need to recalibrate for correct tire size so the transmission will have correct shift points and your Speedo will be correct. Check out JScan and all you’ll need is a Bluetooth OBD reader and the gateway bypass cables.

As you can see I wheel mine regularly and have had no issues with the spacer lift. Now I don’t do anything above a blue rated trail as this is also my DD.

 

[WontonJLUR]

I am running the RC 2.5” spacer kit in my 19 JLUS with 35”s.
1. You won’t need to do any kind of alignment nor get adjustable control arms or track bars. The axle sits just like stock as all you are doing is putting a puck in between the spring and perch.
4. You won’t need an alignment as again your not changing any geometry other than the height of the spring pad. Yes you will need to recalibrate for correct tire size so the transmission will have correct shift points and your Speedo will be correct. Check out JScan and all you’ll need is a Bluetooth OBD reader and the gateway bypass cables.

Putting in a spacer moves the Jeep's frame further away from the axle, same as a longer coil. This still changes the frame/axle relationship, just as it would with a longer coil. You absolutely can get away without doing adjustable control arms/adjustable track bar, but that doesn't mean that you didn't change the geometry of your suspension. You did.

 

[entropy]

Get the rubi springs and smaller smaller spacers, I believe 1 inch will clear for 35s. Or you can also install rubicon fenders and itll clear without the spacers. And you wont need to worry about geometry so much.

The Rubicon suspension is going to vastly improve articulation. And for the lower control arms you can buy the mopar lift control arms and you should be fine.

I am running a rubi suspension and still on stock 32s and I can do all those blue trails without issues. Given I dont drive the schoolbus though.

 

[Trill]

Get the rubi springs and smaller smaller spacers, I believe 1 inch will clear for 35s. Or you can also install rubicon fenders and itll clear without the spacers. And you wont need to worry about geometry so much.

The Rubicon suspension is going to vastly improve articulation. And for the lower control arms you can buy the mopar lift control arms and you should be fine.

I am running a rubi suspension and still on stock 32s and I can do all those blue trails without issues. Given I dont drive the schoolbus though.

I believe the Willys comes with rubi shocks so articulation will be the same as rubi. This was going to be my suggestion, just get rubi fenders and rubi rear bumper corners (if you have 3pc rear bumper) and then run Raptor take-offs with stock wheels on wheel spacers.

 

[WontonJLUR]

I just wanna clarify my position for the OP.

You absolutely can install only springs/shocks/spacers without any adjustable anythings. The only reason I pointed those things out are those are things that I personally would consider at some point down the road as the budget loosens up a bit.

 

[blnewt]

Here's install info if you want to consider some DIY stuff.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/rubicon-suspension-on-2-door-sport.40700/

 

[Bulldog4xFour]

I thought the willy's already had the Rubicon suspension, but looked it up and it said it has the Rubicon shocks with sport springs. You could get the Rubicon springs, and the mopar 2" lift LCAs pretty cheap from mymoparparts.com as part of your budget build. I have a take off Rubicon suspension for my sahara, and plan on getting the mopar LCAs until I upgrade to a full set of adjustable control arms, and 2" lift in the future.

 

[SmoothJeepOperator]

I was exactly where you are when i first got my Jeep. A friend of mine had the same jeep and he helped me with the RC 2.5 spacer lift (after he did it on his own Jeep). Took some time but we were learning things and it really wasnt that hard. Definitely do it with someone who has all the necessary tools and the know how if you dont know anything. Otherwise just take it somewhere to get installed.

I didnt get an adjustable trackbar or change my control arms, I didnt even do the rubi suspension, just kept the sport shocks and springs. Got the lift i was looking for and it drove exactly like stock. If you are doing light wheeling and or little wheeling I would definitely go with the spacer lift to start out.


I was on a RC spacer lift for like 2 years, never really had any issues.

 

[lopab23]

Wow; this is a lot to think about! First, I want to thank everyone for taking the time to give me feedback. I can see that this is really about how far I want to take this. I do have a few more questions, but I'll try to address them with the respective members.

Pablo

 

[lopab23]

I am running the RC 2.5” spacer kit in my 19 JLUS with 35”s.
2. You can go to a 315/70/17 tire on your stock tires which is essentially a 35” tire. The 315 allows for mounting on a 8.5” rim but if you go to a 35x11.5/12.5 you’ll need at least a 9” rim. As noted above you’ll need at least a 1.5” spacer for your stock wheels.

In regards to #2, the stock rim is 7.5. I don't want to purchase new rims, but are you saying that in order to fit 35in (or the 315/70/17) tires, I need a wider rim? If I did get different rims, that would throw this whole thing off correct?

In regards to #3,

 

[Stuckinthesand]

In regards to #2, the stock rim is 7.5. I don't want to purchase new rims, but are you saying that in order to fit 35in (or the 315/70/17) tires, I need a wider rim? If I did get different rims, that would throw this whole thing off correct?

In regards to #3,

Yep your right I had it backwards. If you want to run a 35x11-5/12.5 you’ll need at least and 8-8.5 rim unless you find a tire shop willing to mount on the stock rim. The 315 is able to be mounted on the stock rim as it only calls for a 7.5 wide rim.

If put on too narrow of a rim you tend to get crowning and not even tread wear.

Most good tire shops will not mount a 35*12.5 on a 7.5" rim. They will mount 315/70's on a 7.5

Sponsored