You already got something figured out but for anyone else reading this, it is true that Mopar only offers the UD44 with 4.56 and up. But Dana/Spicer offers their house version with 4.10s, the part number is 10047715. The house version also apparently comes with better ball joints if you check...
Sucks that they let you order a UD44 bare housing for a JK for under $1k and swap all your stuff over. This seems like an even more prudent upgrade on a JL but I don't think it's offered. The only thing I can think of is getting on the phone with a big dana vendor like ECGS and see if they can...
Maybe that will work, I have no idea, but that's obviously intended to replace an entire rubber bushing assembly and not act as a spacer kit for a uniball in a double shear bracket. Using rubber bushings as spacers will also do nothing to prevent the bracket from collapsing under the torque of...
That's pretty fortunate. Personally I would pull the whole thing off until you had the right parts just in case. There is not a lot of room there to account for bumps and vibrations. But that is up to you.
The metalcloak tie rod clamp looks fine there is no reason to buy a new one. Not sure...
I'd be happy to help you out with the stuff you will need to fix all of this but first make sure you didn't already toast your shock. I would be really surprised if that shock shaft is clearing the bolt you used to attach the shock body to the tie rod clamp. See if it's rubbing and check the...
35s are tough that's for sure at least in the rear. I have a sport, but it has rubi axles, rubi fenders, and rubi rear bumper so our applications with respect to tire fitment will be the same. I had the benefit of adjustable control arms in the rear to dial in fitment with 35s. Wheel position...
Undoubtedly the best solution for hardcore or full-time wheelers like sourdough. The weight distribution alone makes a huge difference in trail handling and you will avoid significant body damage by not having a spare hanging off the back catching rock ledges.
For us casuals/daily drivers...
We might need to revisit the rear rubi shock compressed length. 17.5" would be an unusually tight tolerance for an OE application. I know its hard to get an accurate compressed measurement of a gas charged shock since it's always fighting you. But I just can't see 17.5" being the case...
I reached out to the Tazer guys about using their stuff to do the re-programming and here was their reply:
"Hi there,
I do believe that that is being worked on at the moment, I know the engineer and programmer were experimenting. No timeline just yet."
I believe the Willys comes with rubi shocks so articulation will be the same as rubi. This was going to be my suggestion, just get rubi fenders and rubi rear bumper corners (if you have 3pc rear bumper) and then run Raptor take-offs with stock wheels on wheel spacers.
I wouldn't touch the suspension. Most people go that way but if you want to have a 100% factory ride and geometry I can help you out with the parts you will need to make this work, just let me know.
Glad I was able to get mine before they made you get etorque with the 8 speed. Not sure what I would do if I was buying today. Water cooled battery hanging under the belly, or a direct injected turbo motor. Neither sounds really appealing to me, would probably just get the manual trans or buy...
They look really bad on a sport with stock narrow tires and narrower axles. In addition to being higher the rubicon fenders are also quite a bit wider.
There are technically 4 kinds, painted or unpainted with LED or halogen. All have different part numbers. Not including export models which are also different.
All good dude I thought you still had the RC plate but no sweat. Having to buy a new plate is a small setback, a lot of people are steered into these way more expensive aftermarket contraptions but that's another topic, so maybe you dodged a bullet.
Also, depending on your wheels and exact...