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Body mount bolts normal or reverse threaded?

jadmt

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If the bolt came out the welded nuts did not break loose. you are probably just hitting the retainer washer.
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arnie_mueller

arnie_mueller

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It looks like I have a bigger problem. I went out there and stuck a screw driver in the hole for the body mount bolt. I can move the threaded piece from side to side. That tells me there was a nut that was tack welded and busted off while removing the two rear bolts. Those two were far easier to remove than the front, I can't imagine how weak the welds must have been if this is true.

You may be thinking, "you're just seeing the retaining clip that is moving from side to side." Nope, it's that clip and the cylindrical threaded silver piece above it. Bummer.

I assume I can pull out the front and rear seat and the carpet and I'd be able to access the top side of these. I saw a video where they had to cut a hole in the rear of the wheel well for a front bolt that was snapped. Then they made a cool fancy access panel if that front nut ever had to be serviced again. I need to find where that guy lives because he can do anything. 😁

It's late and dark and really hard to see but I took a couple pictures and short video. Maybe someone knows what I'm talking about and I'm just a moron and there's a secret trick to this, fingers crossed that I'm not as smart as my wife says I think I am.

Now, it could be that the nut is allowed to slide side to side like that. I can't really tell if I can push it up, I'm a little afraid to but at this point, if it is indeed broken, what does it matter if I push it up and it just flops off? Maybe I'll try that tomorrow when there's better light.

This is going from "how do I remove these bolts that should be easier than they are" to "how do I remove the carpet and get to the floor under my carpet?" aye yi yi
 
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arnie_mueller

arnie_mueller

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Oh yeah, lastly, is it safe to drive with 4 of 6 body bolts on? I won't wheel it and I'll try not to go over pot holes or railroad tracks, might have to at some point hit a RR track or accidental pothole.
 

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I had to remove mine also for the rock sliders. They do have threadlocker and I would never use a breaker bar on them. Even a 1/2 socket wrench can exert too much force and break them. I used a lot of PB Blaster and a cheap heat gun, but even an old hair dryer can help. .
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That better be a heck of a hair dryer because according to Loctite “Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is a permanent solution for locking and sealing threaded fasteners and is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).”

Anyone that gets it loose without a torch or induction bolt heater just got lucky…
 

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That better be a heck of a hair dryer because according to Loctite “Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is a permanent solution for locking and sealing threaded fasteners and is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).”

Anyone that gets it loose without a torch or induction bolt heater just got lucky…
Do we know what level or brand of Loctite or similar the factory actually uses? I know people see red or blue on the threads. I used a 16 inch breaker bar and it definitely didn’t feel like much more than blue Loctite on the front bolts. I moved the bolt a 1/4 turn back and forth a couple of times then kept slowly increasing the turns until it came off. I know it was dumb luck but I’d be shocked if it’s really Loctite 271. It’s not like I have crazy old man strength or anything.
 

azjl#3

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1 minute video on how to remove red Loctite bolts per Loctite:


Red Loctite is a thermoset polymer. Without heat to soften the polymer, the bolt is at risk of snapping.
sort of always wondered why use red. I know I know, makes it secure. Blue keeps it from turning unless you put a wrench on it.
 

azjl#3

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I'm betting as you go ba
Do we know what level or brand of Loctite or similar the factory actually uses? I know people see red or blue on the threads. I used a 16 inch breaker bar and it definitely didn’t feel like much more than blue Loctite on the front bolts. I moved the bolt a 1/4 turn back and forth a couple of times then kept slowly increasing the turns until it came off. I know it was dumb luck but I’d be shocked if it’s really Loctite 271. It’s not like I have crazy old man strength or anything.
ck and forth it makes a huge amount of heat.
 

jadmt

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I still do not see how it is possible that if the welded nut broke loose the bolt would have came out...does not make sense.
 

Terrymo

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I broke one installing a rear bumper but i was frustrated and used an impact wrench trying to reinstall a bolt that was very slightly shifted out of alignment. They seem marginally welded. I agree though. The odds of the bolt being removed and then the Rifast bung (if that’s what is in there) breaking free seem slim to none. However Murphy is alive and well and is a sneaky bastard.
 

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I had to re-weld a nut back when I removed the stock rear recovery point. Good thing it was the rear most and I could weld 3/4 around the nut from the end of the frame.
 
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I was going to click buy on the Artek Muffler skids for 392 when I read the instructions and it says remove the rear body bolt, then I found this thread .... older threads also point to this is a major PITA and thats why in my 4Xe i chose a rock slider that specifically required me to stay far far away from the body bolt.

Does anyone know if the body bolt in the rear side uses blue or red thread locker?

from what I read, there are 2 vendors who have skids to protect those darn exhaust fins, and both uses body bolt for mounting
 

Terrymo

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I was going to click buy on the Artek Muffler skids for 392 when I read the instructions and it says remove the rear body bolt, then I found this thread .... older threads also point to this is a major PITA and thats why in my 4Xe i chose a rock slider that specifically required me to stay far far away from the body bolt.

Does anyone know if the body bolt in the rear side uses blue or red thread locker?

from what I read, there are 2 vendors who have skids to protect those darn exhaust fins, and both uses body bolt for mounting
On my 23 the very front bolt on each side was red the rest were blue. I followed the advice of @Tech Tim in this @Northridge4x4 video and had no problems.

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