Battery kill switches for winch ?

[Richard_JL]

My Smittybilt winch instructions says wire direct to battery. I'd feel better if I had a disconnect switch on the positive terminal near the battery just in case of front end crash, possible drain, etc. My intent is to have the switch 'off' all the time and open the hood and turn switch 'on' when I use the winch (or maybe should use Aux 1 + relay?).

The Badland 12K winch even includes such a switch, and there are lots of clean out-of-the-box options (switch + mount) for 4Runner, but not so much for Wrangler.

Can you guys show your clean solutions? Thanks!

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[zw470]

My Smittybilt winch instructions says wire direct to battery. I'd feel better if I had a disconnect switch on the positive terminal near the battery just in case of front end crash, possible drain, etc. My intent is to have the switch 'off' all the time and open the hood and turn switch 'on' when I use the winch (or maybe should use Aux 1 + relay?).

The Badland 12000K winch even includes such a switch, and there are lots of clean out-of-the-box options (switch + mount) for 4Runner, but not so much for Wrangler.

Can you guys show your clean solutions? Thanks!

Badland switch on an American Adventure Lab bracket.

 

[grimmjeeper]

Whatever you do, make sure the switch is rated for the max amp draw of the winch. Some winches draw in excess of 400 amps. Running that through a 200A rated switch would be a bad idea.

 

[James Westfall]

I used this:

New Solenoid OEM Prestolite SAS4202 SAS-4202 1114208 Continuous Duty 12 Volt | eBay

Note - this disconnect is rated 200A continuous. Meaning it can handle 200A indefinitely. That means it can take 500A for longer than a winch can. It is important to note the difference between continuous and peak ratings.

 

[grimmjeeper]

I used this:

New Solenoid OEM Prestolite SAS4202 SAS-4202 1114208 Continuous Duty 12 Volt | eBay

200A solenoids like that usually can't handle most winches. I would recommend you upgrade to a higher rated one.

 

[James Westfall]

200A solenoids like that usually can't handle most winches. I would recommend you upgrade to a higher rated one.

See the rest of my post about peak vs. continuous.

 

[yokramer]

See the rest of my post about peak vs. continuous.

Normally with a 200a continuous rating you only see a 300-350 peak surge rating. Do you have the data sheet on it?

 

[James Westfall]

Normally with a 200a continuous rating you only see a 300-350 peak surge rating. Do you have the data sheet on it?

You can look it up on Ametek's site. These are the same as the solenoids used in forklifts - peak amperage is 600-800A depending on duration.

That said, even 300-350A is plenty unless you're running a 15k+ winch. Again, these solenoids are spec'd by many winch manufacturers for use with their winches. I believe Warn uses this exact model in fact.

 

[grimmjeeper]

See the rest of my post about peak vs. continuous.

When you do a long pull, you're exceeding the duration for the peak rating and getting well into the continuous range for use.

Unless you just have your winch for appearances and don't actually use it, you want a higher rated switch or solenoid.

 

[grimmjeeper]

You can look it up on Ametek's site. These are the same as the solenoids used in forklifts - peak amperage is 600-800A depending on duration.

That said, even 300-350A is plenty unless you're running a 15k+ winch. Again, these solenoids are spec'd by many winch manufacturers for use with their winches. I believe Warn uses this exact model in fact.

A lot of winches, especially in the 12K range draw well over 300-350A. The Badlands 12k the OP is using can peak over 500A.

That solenoid may be fine for a Warn 8 or 9K winch, but it's not adequate for the OP.

 

[James Westfall]

When you do a long pull, you're exceeding the duration for the peak rating and getting well into the continuous range for use.

Unless you just have your winch for appearances and don't actually use it, you want a higher rated switch or solenoid.

There is no chance you are sustaining 400A+ for long enough to get into the "continuous" range of these disconnects and ending up with a useable winch afterwards.

You know that Warn uses 300 and 350A contactors on their Zeon's right? The contactor on my Evo is 100A continuous, 360A peak. The disconnect I posted is perfectly fine for anything up to 12k, especially a Harbor Freight example.

Mine's been going strong for four years and three different vehicles.

 

[grimmjeeper]

There is no chance you are sustaining 400A+ for long enough to get into the "continuous" range of these disconnects and ending up with a useable winch afterwards.

You know that Warn uses 300 and 350A contactors on their Zeon's right? The disconnect I posted is perfectly fine for anything up to 12k, especially a Harbor Freight example.

Mine's been going strong for four years and three different vehicles.

Or...

How to say you don't actually push your winch hard without saying you don't actually push your winch hard.

 

[James Westfall]

Or...

How to say you don't actually push your winch hard without saying you don't actually push your winch hard.

LOL right to the d*ck measuring contest. Sorry I apparently injured your ego.

Only on the internet. Geez.

 

[Richard_JL]

Based on the great info above, this looks good:

Jeep JL/JT Battery Cutoff Switch Mount

and add the Blue Sea switch with these ratings...

 

[Roky]

My Smittybilt winch instructions says wire direct to battery. I'd feel better if I had a disconnect switch on the positive terminal near the battery just in case of front end crash, possible drain, etc. My intent is to have the switch 'off' all the time and open the hood and turn switch 'on' when I use the winch (or maybe should use Aux 1 + relay?).

The Badland 12K winch even includes such a switch, and there are lots of clean out-of-the-box options (switch + mount) for 4Runner, but not so much for Wrangler.

Can you guys show your clean solutions? Thanks!

Got mine wired to aux # 2….

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