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Terrymo
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I know it’s not the only choice out there but I’ve been using a Noco Genius 10 for the last 3 years and I’m very happy with it. I also have a Noco Genius 5 to maintain other batteries in our garage. When we had several quads we used one of their multi bank battery chargers.
I have one anecdotal experience with an inexpensive low amperage battery tender brand product that resulted in an agm battery swelling and causing damage in the engine compartment of my Dads truck which he rarely drove. I’m not saying that’s a reason not to buy their products. Just one small data point,
I have one anecdotal experience with an inexpensive low amperage battery tender brand product that resulted in an agm battery swelling and causing damage in the engine compartment of my Dads truck which he rarely drove. I’m not saying that’s a reason not to buy their products. Just one small data point,
Rhinebeck01
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@wazzabie
What is really important is that the charger/maintainer you use is for use with "AGM" batteries. IF, it is not for use with AGM batteries then do not use it as it can damage an AGM battery.
Another really important point is that you do connect the charger/maintainer's leads up so the JL's "IBS Sensor" is in the mix.
Yes, many JL Owner's use an 1.5 amp AGM ready, charger / maintainer but such a low amp unit is better at maintaining an already charged up battery.....
...Whereas a 5 amp + unit AGM ready, can charge / maintain say a partially depleted battery.
I can tell you most long time JL owner's that have done their homework... and found out by hands on experience in regard to a JL ..... they use a 10 amp or greater AGM maintainer / charger. They found a 5 amp or less maintainer / charger just was not as up to the task as a 10 amp or higher amp unit.
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Rogersocal
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Noco 10 is a great Charger. I have been using it for 3-4 years as well.
AndySpill
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@wazzabie
If you didn't know that IBS doesn't stand here for irritable bowel syndrome but rather intelligent battery sensor I would not fault you.
The charging needs you describe will only apply to your 12V battery. Off that battery's ground connection is the small IBS device , as shown on page 4 of this link https://static.oemdtc.com/NHTSA-PDF...5MDQ1NzMkbzEkZzEkdDE3NjI5MDQ2MTckajE2JGwwJGgw in the picture on the left, which also shows "a" place (IMO not the only place) that your charger's ground connection can be attached such that this IBS remains informed as to your 12V battery's state even as its charged from the external charging device you seek guidance on.
In the paragraph above this picture is the following sentence " Please note to charge through the IBS or tie negative clamp to Body/engine ground."
What this means to me is that you can attach the negative/ ground side of your charger to the point of this link's picture pointed to in purple below, or the body ground circled in orange.***
(The IBS is somewhat obscured in this picture pointed to in green, and the cable at this point has at its distal end the body ground.)
***There is more here than meets the eye IMO, is it regards attaching the charger's ground to that circled in orange. What I mean by that is while you may, if you wish, literally attached your charger's ground there, more to my point, and as you may be aware, many circuits in your vehicle use its metallic structure as a return path for electrical current: current that ends up at the point circled in orange, to then find its way back to the battery's ground via the aforementioned cable.
So attaching a charger, at least a trickle charger to pretty much any place on the vehicle with a direct connection to the battery, including the rear cargo port (by default if equipped), the ODB 2 port (by your left knee's pin 16 (hot) and 4 (ground) https://www.flexihub.com/oobd2-pinout/ or a tow harness, are all fine places to trickle charge from. This doesn't include your console's cigarette lighter plug, which is only energized when the vehicle is on.
Do though save the heavy amperage charging, including jump starting need be, for connections occurring only under the hood.
If you didn't know that IBS doesn't stand here for irritable bowel syndrome but rather intelligent battery sensor I would not fault you.
The charging needs you describe will only apply to your 12V battery. Off that battery's ground connection is the small IBS device , as shown on page 4 of this link https://static.oemdtc.com/NHTSA-PDF...5MDQ1NzMkbzEkZzEkdDE3NjI5MDQ2MTckajE2JGwwJGgw in the picture on the left, which also shows "a" place (IMO not the only place) that your charger's ground connection can be attached such that this IBS remains informed as to your 12V battery's state even as its charged from the external charging device you seek guidance on.
In the paragraph above this picture is the following sentence " Please note to charge through the IBS or tie negative clamp to Body/engine ground."
What this means to me is that you can attach the negative/ ground side of your charger to the point of this link's picture pointed to in purple below, or the body ground circled in orange.***
(The IBS is somewhat obscured in this picture pointed to in green, and the cable at this point has at its distal end the body ground.)
***There is more here than meets the eye IMO, is it regards attaching the charger's ground to that circled in orange. What I mean by that is while you may, if you wish, literally attached your charger's ground there, more to my point, and as you may be aware, many circuits in your vehicle use its metallic structure as a return path for electrical current: current that ends up at the point circled in orange, to then find its way back to the battery's ground via the aforementioned cable.
So attaching a charger, at least a trickle charger to pretty much any place on the vehicle with a direct connection to the battery, including the rear cargo port (by default if equipped), the ODB 2 port (by your left knee's pin 16 (hot) and 4 (ground) https://www.flexihub.com/oobd2-pinout/ or a tow harness, are all fine places to trickle charge from. This doesn't include your console's cigarette lighter plug, which is only energized when the vehicle is on.
Do though save the heavy amperage charging, including jump starting need be, for connections occurring only under the hood.
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TNriver
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I also have been using the NOCO 10amp charger for almost 2yrs on my 2024. I installed one because my Jeep is not a daily driver.
I used the 813 fabrication bracket instead of a compressor. I looked at the mounts and figured it would make a clean install. Anyways it turned out to be a great setup. The wires/harness coming out of the bottom have about 3/4" clearance from anything.
I ran the 110v along the top edge of the fender and then out above the passenger headlight. It is easy to put it back under the hood when driving. I was going to mount a through firewall connection near the bumper, but never got around to it.
https://813fabrication.com/products/jeep-jl-gladiator-underhood-arb-single-compressor-firewall-mount
I used the 813 fabrication bracket instead of a compressor. I looked at the mounts and figured it would make a clean install. Anyways it turned out to be a great setup. The wires/harness coming out of the bottom have about 3/4" clearance from anything.
I ran the 110v along the top edge of the fender and then out above the passenger headlight. It is easy to put it back under the hood when driving. I was going to mount a through firewall connection near the bumper, but never got around to it.
https://813fabrication.com/products/jeep-jl-gladiator-underhood-arb-single-compressor-firewall-mount
Last edited:
Terrymo
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I did the same but added a Noco AC port. Not super attractive, but it’s convenient. This Jeep isn’t going to win any show and shine awards anyway.I also have been using the NOCO 10amp charger for almost 2yrs on my 2024. I installed one because my Jeep is not a daily driver.
I used the 813 fabrication bracket instead of a compressor. I looked at the mounts and figured it would make a clean install. Anyways it turned out to be a great setup. The wires/harness coming out of the bottom have about 3/4" clearance from anything.
I ran the 110v along the edge of the top of the fender and then out above the passenger headlight. It is easy to put it back under the hood when driving. I was going to mount a through firewall connection near the bumper, but never got around to it.
https://813fabrication.com/products/jeep-jl-gladiator-underhood-arb-single-compressor-firewall-mount
Reinen
Well-Known Member
How much of a problem was it to bend it to that curve? It looks like it took some persuasion.I did the same but added a Noco AC port. Not super attractive, but it’s convenient. This Jeep isn’t going to win any show and shine awards anyway.
Terrymo
Well-Known Member
It’s thick rubber with a rubber gasket, but the newer style has only 3 mounting points. I bought a couple of the older style that use 6 points off eBay. I used black stainless 1/4-20 hardware including washers and nylocks and just tightened gradually around the perimeter. There’s not a lot of pressure on the cowl piece but you can see the rubber is not 100% flush otherwise the cowl would start to distort.
Reinen
Well-Known Member
Yeah, thanks for confirming. That's exactly why I haven't put one of those on my Jeep yet. The easiest spot to put it is still awkward. I haven't settled on an easy enough spot yet.
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Terrymo
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There’s not a lot of wiggle room for the power cord on the port itself or the back of the recessed portion of the port within the cowl area. Measure 12 times and you get one shot with a hole saw. There’s better ways to do it that are more aesthetically pleasing for sure.
billjr
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Wouldn't it be easier to keep the charger out on a workbench or something then just run a 2-wire with charger connector from the battery to outside the engine bay kind of like he did on the hood? Any location that goes outside the engine bay to a barely seen location. All that would be showing would be that little battery charger connector. Am I missing a specific reason for having the charger itself in the engine bay? Just curious.
Reinen
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For me, I have a retractable cord hanging from the ceiling in my garage (which is the most convenient thing ever BTW). It ends up right outside my driver door at the windshield. It would be extremely easy to pull it down and plug it into a socket that's right there. Equally easy to unplug it and let it retract.
Why deal with a separate battery charger all the time? They're cheap. Mount one in the Jeep.
billjr
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OK, I definately missed something. The charger I would be reffering to would be the one that is now under the hood. I'm wondering why that has to be under the hood and not outside on a work bench that could just as easily be plugged in with the charger cable that would run from the battery to the outside with a charger connector on it. That's the way all my cars have the trickle chargers hooked up. All that's under the hood is that tiny 2-wire coming from the outside with the wires themselves terminated to the battery. The other end just gets plugged into the charger as needed. That connector is in the grill or near the bumper out of sight. Or is this battery used for more then just a trickle charger? In that case I could see a reason for getting the charger in the engine bay as close to the battery as possible.
AndySpill
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@billjr you missed nothing sir.
Some people like to dedicate a charger to a vehicle and stick it under the hood, perhaps to facilitate outdoor trickle charging in the elements, protected by a closed hood, (or they just like the look of the setup,) and others like you prefer the charger external to vehicle whose battery/ies it is charging.
Some people like to dedicate a charger to a vehicle and stick it under the hood, perhaps to facilitate outdoor trickle charging in the elements, protected by a closed hood, (or they just like the look of the setup,) and others like you prefer the charger external to vehicle whose battery/ies it is charging.
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