Batteries replacement made easy on RHD

[kieseki]

I wanted to share some information on replacing the 12V batteries on the RHD JL for Australian owners. This isn't a step-by-step guide, as it's essentially the same as the LHD process other than how the auxiliary battery is accessed.

Removing factory batteries
Disconnect and isolate the auxiliary negative first, and then disconnect the wiring from the main battery terminals. You will then need to remove the battery base clamp closest to the fender with a 10mm socket to lift out the main battery. This will reveal that the main battery tray is also the lid of the auxiliary battery compartment. The lid can be opened by removing the two 10mm bolts from the remaining base clamps, which are moulded onto the lid.

Unlike the LHD models, you will not need to remove the Power Control Box or the fender flare to access the auxiliary battery.

Replacement batteries that fit
For the main battery, I went with the Century ISS Active Stop/Start Car Battery DIN65LH AGM MF (720CCA 70AH). I chose it mainly for convenience as SupercheapAuto had it in stock (Aussie freight network is a nightmare right now), but also, it's a decent brand. This is a H6 battery, which is essentially the same size as the factory battery. The dimensions are 276L x 175W x 190H. I believe you can fit a longer H7 sized battery (e.g. Century DIN75LH AGM MF 800CA 80AH) as there is some spare room on the battery tray adjacent to the firewall.

For the auxiliary, I went with the Century/Katana Powersports Small Engine Battery YTX14-BS FA (200CCA 12AH), which is an AUX14 group sized battery. This is essentially the same size as the factory auxiliary battery. Unlike the main battery, there is less flexibility on size with the auxiliary; the bottom of the auxiliary battery lid has a protruding part that pushes against the recessed area of the battery's top to stop it from moving. So a smaller battery than AUX14 would bounce around, whereas a bigger battery will not fit in the compartment.

I should also note that I did not need to remove and redeploy the E6 torx battery terminal studs and nuts from the factory auxiliary battery. When the torx studs are fitted onto the Katana's terminals, they will sit higher than that of the factory battery, which would stop the lid from closing. However, the Katana battery comes with its own terminal nuts and bolts that worked just fine to reconnect the factory positive and negative wiring, so I used these instead.

TLDR summary
If your RHD JL's batteries are dying, especially due to COVID lockdowns over the last 18 months, you can easily replace them yourself. The process is not as complicated as LHD models because there is no need to remove the PCB or fender flare.

In terms of dimensions, you should aim to get an H6 or H7 equivalent main battery, and an AUX14 auxiliary battery.

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[Jeepster_Aus]

I wanted to share some information on replacing the 12V batteries on the RHD JL for Australian owners. This isn't a step-by-step guide, as it's essentially the same as the LHD process other than how the auxiliary battery is accessed.

Removing factory batteries
Disconnect and isolate the auxiliary negative first, and then disconnect the wiring from the main battery terminals. You will then need to remove the battery base clamp closest to the fender with a 10mm socket to lift out the main battery. This will reveal that the main battery tray is also the lid of the auxiliary battery compartment. The lid can be opened by removing the two 10mm bolts from the remaining base clamps, which are moulded onto the lid.

Unlike the LHD models, you will not need to remove the Power Control Box or the fender flare to access the auxiliary battery.

Replacement batteries that fit
For the main battery, I went with the Century ISS Active Stop/Start Car Battery DIN65LH AGM MF (720CCA 70AH). I chose it mainly for convenience as SupercheapAuto had it in stock (Aussie freight network is a nightmare right now), but also, it's a decent brand. This is a H6 battery, which is essentially the same size as the factory battery. The dimensions are 276L x 175W x 190H. I believe you can fit a longer H7 sized battery (e.g. Century DIN75LH AGM MF 800CA 80AH) as there is some spare room on the battery tray adjacent to the firewall.

For the auxiliary, I went with the Century/Katana Powersports Small Engine Battery YTX14-BS FA (200CCA 12AH), which is an AUX14 group sized battery. This is essentially the same size as the factory auxiliary battery. Unlike the main battery, there is less flexibility on size with the auxiliary; the bottom of the auxiliary battery lid has a protruding part that pushes against the recessed area of the battery's top to stop it from moving. So a smaller battery than AUX14 would bounce around, whereas a bigger battery will not fit in the compartment.

I should also note that I did not need to remove and redeploy the E6 torx battery terminal studs and nuts from the factory auxiliary battery. When the torx studs are fitted onto the Katana's terminals, they will sit higher than that of the factory battery, which would stop the lid from closing. However, the Katana battery comes with its own terminal nuts and bolts that worked just fine to reconnect the factory positive and negative wiring, so I used these instead.

TLDR summary
If your RHD JL's batteries are dying, especially due to COVID lockdowns over the last 18 months, you can easily replace them yourself. The process is not as complicated as LHD models because there is no need to remove the PCB or fender flare.

In terms of dimensions, you should aim to get an H6 or H7 equivalent main battery, and an AUX14 auxiliary battery.

Thanks for a very informative and detailed post. I'm sure this will come in handy for many as their JLs age and it gets to the point of having to replace batteries. Great write up.

 

[AU_JLU]

How is that replacement aux holding up?

 

[calemasters]

Removing factory batteries
Disconnect and isolate the auxiliary negative first, and then disconnect the wiring from the main battery terminals. You will then need to remove the battery base clamp closest to the fender with a 10mm socket to lift out the main battery. This will reveal that the main battery tray is also the lid of the auxiliary battery compartment. The lid can be opened by removing the two 10mm bolts from the remaining base clamps, which are moulded onto the lid.

This is very similar to the LHD diesel JL, where the aux battery is under the main battery tray.

 

[kieseki]

How is that replacement aux holding up?

I haven’t had any issues. Seems robust but I only had it for 3 months or so. Definitely better than the factory aux by the time I took it out, but that’s probably because it had sulphated a bit during lockdowns last year.

When I don’t drive the Jeep for a week the ESS does disable until the batteries are charged again. I should note that I have Rockslide Engineering drop down steps and an SPOD hooked up so there may be a bit more parasitic draw than stock setups.

Instead of relying on the alternator, these days I just use a Century battery charger that plugs into 240V mains (6A max) or a Dometic solar blanket (depend on the sun but usually 2-6A). Both methods top up the batteries in a few hours for ESS to work again.

 

[Knightcustoms]

I did make a seperate post on here, but figured you guys might be able to help? Can someone confirm if all JL Rubicons with the factory aux switched fitted also come with the dual battery set up? Without having to remove the main battery, what is the easy way to know if your JL has the second battery set up? Any help greatly appreciated.

 

[AU_JLU]

I did make a seperate post on here, but figured you guys might be able to help? Can someone confirm if all JL Rubicons with the factory aux switched fitted also come with the dual battery set up? Without having to remove the main battery, what is the easy way to know if your JL has the second battery set up? Any help greatly appreciated.

All Australian 3.6 JLs have start stop and aux battery system. I can’t speak for the diesel. Luckily the Aux is easier to access in the RHD models.

 

[Knightcustoms]

All Australian 3.6 JLs have start stop and aux battery system. I can’t speak for the diesel. Luckily the Aux is easier to access in the RHD models.

Thanks!

 

[AusJeepNoob]

All Australian 3.6 JLs have start stop and aux battery system. I can’t speak for the diesel. Luckily the Aux is easier to access in the RHD models.

My diesel also has start/stop and the 2nd battery so assume all other diesels do.

 

[AKI@JP]

I wanted to share some information on replacing the 12V batteries on the RHD JL for Australian owners. This isn't a step-by-step guide, as it's essentially the same as the LHD process other than how the auxiliary battery is accessed.

Removing factory batteries
Disconnect and isolate the auxiliary negative first, and then disconnect the wiring from the main battery terminals. You will then need to remove the battery base clamp closest to the fender with a 10mm socket to lift out the main battery. This will reveal that the main battery tray is also the lid of the auxiliary battery compartment. The lid can be opened by removing the two 10mm bolts from the remaining base clamps, which are moulded onto the lid.

Unlike the LHD models, you will not need to remove the Power Control Box or the fender flare to access the auxiliary battery.

Replacement batteries that fit
For the main battery, I went with the Century ISS Active Stop/Start Car Battery DIN65LH AGM MF (720CCA 70AH). I chose it mainly for convenience as SupercheapAuto had it in stock (Aussie freight network is a nightmare right now), but also, it's a decent brand. This is a H6 battery, which is essentially the same size as the factory battery. The dimensions are 276L x 175W x 190H. I believe you can fit a longer H7 sized battery (e.g. Century DIN75LH AGM MF 800CA 80AH) as there is some spare room on the battery tray adjacent to the firewall.

For the auxiliary, I went with the Century/Katana Powersports Small Engine Battery YTX14-BS FA (200CCA 12AH), which is an AUX14 group sized battery. This is essentially the same size as the factory auxiliary battery. Unlike the main battery, there is less flexibility on size with the auxiliary; the bottom of the auxiliary battery lid has a protruding part that pushes against the recessed area of the battery's top to stop it from moving. So a smaller battery than AUX14 would bounce around, whereas a bigger battery will not fit in the compartment.

I should also note that I did not need to remove and redeploy the E6 torx battery terminal studs and nuts from the factory auxiliary battery. When the torx studs are fitted onto the Katana's terminals, they will sit higher than that of the factory battery, which would stop the lid from closing. However, the Katana battery comes with its own terminal nuts and bolts that worked just fine to reconnect the factory positive and negative wiring, so I used these instead.

TLDR summary
If your RHD JL's batteries are dying, especially due to COVID lockdowns over the last 18 months, you can easily replace them yourself. The process is not as complicated as LHD models because there is no need to remove the PCB or fender flare.

In terms of dimensions, you should aim to get an H6 or H7 equivalent main battery, and an AUX14 auxiliary battery.

I drive a 3.6JL, RHD in Japan.
If you remove the square spacer on the AUX battery lid, you can install an LN4 battery (I have an Optima DH7) without interference.
There is a few millimeters between it and the coolant reservoir tank stay.
I also removed the aux battery when installing the Optima DH7.
The Optima DH7 alone outperforms the two stock batteries in CCA, Ah, and RC and has not caused any errors in the vehicle.
All you have to do is connect the cable that is connected to the positive terminal of the AUX battery to the positive terminal of the main battery.
Depending on the year, the cable connected to the negative terminal of the AUX battery may not be necessary, or it may be necessary to connect it back to the negative terminal of the main battery.

In a few days, a friend of mine who drives a Wrangler will post a YouTube video on how he converted his RHD to a single battery.

I am not familiar with English, but I wanted to share this with RHD JL drivers in Australia and other countries.

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

 

[JohnnyB]

I wanted to share some information on replacing the 12V batteries on the RHD JL for Australian owners. This isn't a step-by-step guide, as it's essentially the same as the LHD process other than how the auxiliary battery is accessed.

Removing factory batteries
Disconnect and isolate the auxiliary negative first, and then disconnect the wiring from the main battery terminals. You will then need to remove the battery base clamp closest to the fender with a 10mm socket to lift out the main battery. This will reveal that the main battery tray is also the lid of the auxiliary battery compartment. The lid can be opened by removing the two 10mm bolts from the remaining base clamps, which are moulded onto the lid.

Unlike the LHD models, you will not need to remove the Power Control Box or the fender flare to access the auxiliary battery.

Replacement batteries that fit
For the main battery, I went with the Century ISS Active Stop/Start Car Battery DIN65LH AGM MF (720CCA 70AH). I chose it mainly for convenience as SupercheapAuto had it in stock (Aussie freight network is a nightmare right now), but also, it's a decent brand. This is a H6 battery, which is essentially the same size as the factory battery. The dimensions are 276L x 175W x 190H. I believe you can fit a longer H7 sized battery (e.g. Century DIN75LH AGM MF 800CA 80AH) as there is some spare room on the battery tray adjacent to the firewall.

For the auxiliary, I went with the Century/Katana Powersports Small Engine Battery YTX14-BS FA (200CCA 12AH), which is an AUX14 group sized battery. This is essentially the same size as the factory auxiliary battery. Unlike the main battery, there is less flexibility on size with the auxiliary; the bottom of the auxiliary battery lid has a protruding part that pushes against the recessed area of the battery's top to stop it from moving. So a smaller battery than AUX14 would bounce around, whereas a bigger battery will not fit in the compartment.

I should also note that I did not need to remove and redeploy the E6 torx battery terminal studs and nuts from the factory auxiliary battery. When the torx studs are fitted onto the Katana's terminals, they will sit higher than that of the factory battery, which would stop the lid from closing. However, the Katana battery comes with its own terminal nuts and bolts that worked just fine to reconnect the factory positive and negative wiring, so I used these instead.

TLDR summary
If your RHD JL's batteries are dying, especially due to COVID lockdowns over the last 18 months, you can easily replace them yourself. The process is not as complicated as LHD models because there is no need to remove the PCB or fender flare.

In terms of dimensions, you should aim to get an H6 or H7 equivalent main battery, and an AUX14 auxiliary battery.

Brilliant description!
I'm starting to get the Auto start/stop not functioning warning messages. Battery capacity test indicates that the Aux battery is bad, which has prompted me to start researching how to replace them both. Local dealer over here in UK said it would cost £1000 including labour!??
Thanks for the help!

 

[redgum]

Thank you to the OP.

I replaced my failing aux battery with the Century/Katana Powersports Small Engine Battery YTX14-BS FA (200CCA 12AH) following the OPs advice.

The dealer replaced my main battery under warranty but didn't have / would not cover the aux battery.

I was very careful to make sure the main or the aux battery did not short out on anything and blow a fuse.

It did take a few hours for everything in Uconnect to reload.
I lost the DAB, off road pages and the reverse Camera button initially but they all came back.

 

[kieseki]

Thank you to the OP.

I replaced my failing aux battery with the Century/Katana Powersports Small Engine Battery YTX14-BS FA (200CCA 12AH) following the OPs advice.

The dealer replaced my main battery under warranty but didn't have / would not cover the aux battery.

I was very careful to make sure the main or the aux battery did not short out on anything and blow a fuse.

It did take a few hours for everything in Uconnect to reload.
I lost the DAB, off road pages and the reverse Camera button initially but they all came back.

Glad it was useful. Another member from the UK did message me about UConnect not working after the battery change, but everything came back online the next morning. It’s good to confirm that just waiting some time will resolve this issue.

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